Advice needed for dwarf puffer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Advice needed for dwarf puffer
Hi,
I was hoping someone could offer some advice regarding one of our dwarf puffers. We got 6 in total back in April this year. We feed a mix of frozen food (bloodworm, mosquito larvae, cockles) and live food when we can get it (daphnia, bloodworm, water fleas and tubifex once). Five of them eat well and their bellies are usually nicely rounded afterwards. They would probably eat more if I offered it. The sixth one doesn't seem to eat. He grabs hold of the food then lets it go, then grabs it again, then lets it go, etc until he gets bored. I've always recognised him because he was smaller than the others but the last couple of days he appears to be almost emaciated, and isn't rushing to the front of the tank whenever we walk past like the others do.
When we first got them they had plenty of snails since the tank had a nasty snail infestation. They took care of that within a week. We're trying to breed more for them but so far production has been slow, to say the least, so they haven't seen many snails since we got them.
We've got a quarantine tank coming free in the next couple of days and I'm thinking of moving him over into the that where I can keep a better eye on him.
Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong with him.
Tank stats......
approx 30g, planted with 6 DPs and 2 otos. Tank is fully cycled, having previously been used as a community set up.
50% water changes done weekly. Nothing is added to the water other than dechlorinator. Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate - 0/0/5ish. pH is around 8. Nothing added since the DPs went in there in April. Lost a couple of otos around the beginning of May.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
Clare
I was hoping someone could offer some advice regarding one of our dwarf puffers. We got 6 in total back in April this year. We feed a mix of frozen food (bloodworm, mosquito larvae, cockles) and live food when we can get it (daphnia, bloodworm, water fleas and tubifex once). Five of them eat well and their bellies are usually nicely rounded afterwards. They would probably eat more if I offered it. The sixth one doesn't seem to eat. He grabs hold of the food then lets it go, then grabs it again, then lets it go, etc until he gets bored. I've always recognised him because he was smaller than the others but the last couple of days he appears to be almost emaciated, and isn't rushing to the front of the tank whenever we walk past like the others do.
When we first got them they had plenty of snails since the tank had a nasty snail infestation. They took care of that within a week. We're trying to breed more for them but so far production has been slow, to say the least, so they haven't seen many snails since we got them.
We've got a quarantine tank coming free in the next couple of days and I'm thinking of moving him over into the that where I can keep a better eye on him.
Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong with him.
Tank stats......
approx 30g, planted with 6 DPs and 2 otos. Tank is fully cycled, having previously been used as a community set up.
50% water changes done weekly. Nothing is added to the water other than dechlorinator. Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate - 0/0/5ish. pH is around 8. Nothing added since the DPs went in there in April. Lost a couple of otos around the beginning of May.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
Clare
- bertie 83
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
I would definitely feed him separate for a few days to keep an eye on him, not in a separate tank maybe in a breeding net as not to stress him too much he may be a slow eater I have seen this with mine once they get their strength back should feed more competitively. Or maybe he is being bullied
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
+1 to Bertie's advice. That's what I was going to reccomend. One of my 3 is a slower eater. I make sure once or twice a week to isolate him IN the tank in a breeder box to keep him extra bloodworms. Good luck.
29 Gallon Marine tank, with refugium, skimmer. Base rock, coral skeletons. Stock: Baby Ocellaurus Clown, young Saddled Toby, 3 Hermit crabs,one 2 inch Bristle Worm, hitch hiking starfish.
10g Biotope. 3 C. Travancoricus (Dwarf Puffer) Some Ghost shrimp, gravel/sand substrate, heavily planted with Swords and Java Moss.
10g LR Culture Tank. 10+ pounds fiji LR / base rock. Assorted hitch hiking inverts
Some FW tanks.
In My Experience, Fishkeeping is like Cooking. Five or ten basics will keep anyone from getting sick. But to be truly magnificent... You have to know the right Recipies.
10g Biotope. 3 C. Travancoricus (Dwarf Puffer) Some Ghost shrimp, gravel/sand substrate, heavily planted with Swords and Java Moss.
10g LR Culture Tank. 10+ pounds fiji LR / base rock. Assorted hitch hiking inverts
Some FW tanks.
In My Experience, Fishkeeping is like Cooking. Five or ten basics will keep anyone from getting sick. But to be truly magnificent... You have to know the right Recipies.
Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
OK, I have a breeding box somewhere. He won't get too stressed if I move him into that for a few days inside the main tank?
I'll sort him out later tonight.
I'll sort him out later tonight.
- bertie 83
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Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
Just put him there whilst feeding 2 or 3 times a week he won't mind he can eat at his pace. After a short while he will most likely swim in on his own
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
OK, we've popped him in the breeding box, and added a couple of pieces of frozen cockle.
I'm quite worried about him now...I think this is more than just being a slow eater. He's spending most of his time lying on the bottom of the box and has shown no interest in the food at all. He really is very emaciated. We're planning on leaving him on the breeding box overnight - the tank is quite heavily planted making it difficult to find him normally.
I'm quite worried about him now...I think this is more than just being a slow eater. He's spending most of his time lying on the bottom of the box and has shown no interest in the food at all. He really is very emaciated. We're planning on leaving him on the breeding box overnight - the tank is quite heavily planted making it difficult to find him normally.
-
RTR
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
I have no info on the availability of live food in the UK. Do you have any ready access to items such as live blackworms or Red cherry shrimp.
Many puffers - but usually wild caught - are slow to accept non-living foods. Trying a live item or two might ease the transition to available but possibly unfamiliar foods.
Very severe intestinal parasite infestations do sometimes suppress feeding in puffers. Is the fish severely hollow-bellied?
Many puffers - but usually wild caught - are slow to accept non-living foods. Trying a live item or two might ease the transition to available but possibly unfamiliar foods.
Very severe intestinal parasite infestations do sometimes suppress feeding in puffers. Is the fish severely hollow-bellied?
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
IPs could be a culprit.... here it was mentioned that they can infect the throat area making feeding undesirable.
I had 3 of mine waste away for some reason. If it was IP's I didn't find them, but I didn't look in the throat.
Also it won't hurt to med them just in case.
I had 3 of mine waste away for some reason. If it was IP's I didn't find them, but I didn't look in the throat.
Also it won't hurt to med them just in case.
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katfemme89
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
I'm a puffer noob, but is it possible that his teeth are too long? Maybe try trimming them? That's kind of how my GSP was acting before I trimmed his teeth.
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
considering the size of a DP, it is possible but trimming is impractical. Do you have any way of checking if being long in the tooth is the problem?
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
I've never heard of a DP needing dentistry.
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Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
It was my understanding that DPs don't have the problem with over-growing beaks like other puffers.
I had wondered about parasites though. Its difficult to describe but whereas the others have quite round bodies tapering off down their tails, this guy instantly turns to practically nothing once you get past his head. I'll try to get a photo tonight - it's easier than trying to describe it.
Live food is readily available in the UK, but there's only place near us that does it and their supply is intermittant. Because of this all our DPs usually accept frozen but they'll take pretty much anything live that we put in there when we can get it. I never thought about tempting him with live food - my husband is travelling around Scotland today so I'll see if he can track some down.
How's this for a plan....I'll try him with live food tonight (although last time we fed live bloodworms he just played with them and didn't eat them). If he's still not keen, I'll transfer him to the 10g quarantine tank that'll be free this week and look at treating for intestinal parasites. What kind of meds will I need for that?
Thanks so much for all your help.
Clare
I had wondered about parasites though. Its difficult to describe but whereas the others have quite round bodies tapering off down their tails, this guy instantly turns to practically nothing once you get past his head. I'll try to get a photo tonight - it's easier than trying to describe it.
Live food is readily available in the UK, but there's only place near us that does it and their supply is intermittant. Because of this all our DPs usually accept frozen but they'll take pretty much anything live that we put in there when we can get it. I never thought about tempting him with live food - my husband is travelling around Scotland today so I'll see if he can track some down.
How's this for a plan....I'll try him with live food tonight (although last time we fed live bloodworms he just played with them and didn't eat them). If he's still not keen, I'll transfer him to the 10g quarantine tank that'll be free this week and look at treating for intestinal parasites. What kind of meds will I need for that?
Thanks so much for all your help.
Clare
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
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Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
Live brine shrimp should tempt him to eat. Try not to stress him when moving him if you decide to. I buy my live food in bulk and refrigerate it they sleep and wake up when they hit the tank water. Depending on quality should last about a week
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
Oh or peas mine love them
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
- Purifire
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- Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 3:13 am
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- My Puffers: 2 Dwarf Puffers (C. Travancoricus) , 1 male 1 female.
Saddled Toby (C. Vallintini)
Have kept GSPs - Location (country): United States, Lompoc CA
Re: Advice needed for dwarf puffer
I suggest you try a garlic soak for some of his food. Just mash a clove of if up, take some tank water and put it in a shotglass or something. Add a little of the food, and let it soak maybe 15-30 minutes, I'd try 15 first, as to not overdo it. I've had a little success in getting GSPs interested that way. And of course, give it to him in the box or net, or the others will totally steal it, since it has "puff bait" on it.
29 Gallon Marine tank, with refugium, skimmer. Base rock, coral skeletons. Stock: Baby Ocellaurus Clown, young Saddled Toby, 3 Hermit crabs,one 2 inch Bristle Worm, hitch hiking starfish.
10g Biotope. 3 C. Travancoricus (Dwarf Puffer) Some Ghost shrimp, gravel/sand substrate, heavily planted with Swords and Java Moss.
10g LR Culture Tank. 10+ pounds fiji LR / base rock. Assorted hitch hiking inverts
Some FW tanks.
In My Experience, Fishkeeping is like Cooking. Five or ten basics will keep anyone from getting sick. But to be truly magnificent... You have to know the right Recipies.
10g Biotope. 3 C. Travancoricus (Dwarf Puffer) Some Ghost shrimp, gravel/sand substrate, heavily planted with Swords and Java Moss.
10g LR Culture Tank. 10+ pounds fiji LR / base rock. Assorted hitch hiking inverts
Some FW tanks.
In My Experience, Fishkeeping is like Cooking. Five or ten basics will keep anyone from getting sick. But to be truly magnificent... You have to know the right Recipies.