Marine ICH on PORC?
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
Sure is. Try a FW dip to at least relieve it for a little while.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
whats a good thread or site explaining how to perform a FW dip, ive seen plenty online but i want to get this right for the puffer. not just a general one for every other fish.
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Black Widow
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
THERE S IS NO GOOD THREAD ! juast common sense to shove the fish in a bowl full of RO water at tank temp for no more than 5 mins
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
Dips can be 30 minutes or more or until they start to stress..Walrus Head wrote:THERE S IS NO GOOD THREAD ! juast common sense to shove the fish in a bowl full of RO water at tank temp for no more than 5 mins
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
5 min isn't enough, 30 is suggested. Get the pH of the water the same as the tank. Are you using a calibrated refractometer to get the SG of 1.009?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
I always re calibrate my refractomometer with the same temp water, so just matched ph, temp and ro for 30 mins?
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sevenyearnight
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
Oh, you sassy, sassy fish shover!Walrus Head wrote:THERE S IS NO GOOD THREAD ! juast common sense to shove the fish in a bowl full of RO water at tank temp for no more than 5 mins
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Black Widow
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
sevenyearnight wrote:Oh, you sassy, sassy fish shover!Walrus Head wrote:THERE S IS NO GOOD THREAD ! juast common sense to shove the fish in a bowl full of RO water at tank temp for no more than 5 mins
OUCH
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
You need to use calibration solution for correct SG readings.Sno wrote:I always re calibrate my refractomometer with the same temp water, so just matched ph, temp and ro for 30 mins?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Marine ICH on PORC?
ICH has disappeared from most fish however in one fish a small regal tang, the fishes spots turnt to cobweb looking mucus and was trailing behind him and off of his fins, he sadly died today, and another fish raccoon butterfly, also died today after showing signs this morning of pattern changing and colour changing on his skin, most likely from scratching he seemed to be losing scales. making him appear to have light grey patches on his dark part of skin.
however now my porcupine appears to have a light grey/purple colour around his beak and if i remember last night during feeding he opened his mouth wide for about 2-3 seconds as if he was sucking in or blowing out and then i thought whats up with his mouth, he is cave ridden but if he come sout i'll be sure to upload pics. Ive got salinity at 1.010 now, calibrated with RO/DI water, refractomoter has ATC so leaving for 30 seconds as suggested to allow for temperature compensaton. my lfs doesn't have the calibration liquid.
i did post on marine depot, however my only concern now is what this may be that is happening to my puffer, what does this sound like, its killing my other fish in as little as a day of showing signs so obviously is not ich no more.
you can see pictures from the fish that are now dead on this link
if that gives anyone a better idea of what may be occuring http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic114999-10-1.aspx
however now my porcupine appears to have a light grey/purple colour around his beak and if i remember last night during feeding he opened his mouth wide for about 2-3 seconds as if he was sucking in or blowing out and then i thought whats up with his mouth, he is cave ridden but if he come sout i'll be sure to upload pics. Ive got salinity at 1.010 now, calibrated with RO/DI water, refractomoter has ATC so leaving for 30 seconds as suggested to allow for temperature compensaton. my lfs doesn't have the calibration liquid.
i did post on marine depot, however my only concern now is what this may be that is happening to my puffer, what does this sound like, its killing my other fish in as little as a day of showing signs so obviously is not ich no more.
you can see pictures from the fish that are now dead on this link
if that gives anyone a better idea of what may be occuring http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic114999-10-1.aspx