ich on mbu... help...
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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htse
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:33 pm
- Location (country): Toronto - Richmond Hill
ich on mbu... help...
this is the third day of ich, i already raise the temp to 29C ,added some salt and ick guard into the tank and 50% water change . and i also stopped feeding.why does he seems like he have a layer of stuff surrounding his body... is that normal ..."!? what should i do? yesterday he still swims around and this morning too, but now he just floats there, his fins still move, the reason i said float and becuz he doesnt sit there, his body doesnt touch the gravel. what else can i do? should i turn off the light of something? sooooo worry =[
Re: ich on mbu... help...
Have you been vacuuming the gravel really good with a python? Water changes 1-2 times daily? Are you adding enought salt?
I am sure you have seen this link but please read again.
library/hospital/fwich/
I am sure you have seen this link but please read again.
library/hospital/fwich/
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htse
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:33 pm
- Location (country): Toronto - Richmond Hill
Re: ich on mbu... help...
sand gravel.. so i cant vaccum the gravel, last time i did any water change was last night for 50%,trekenk wrote:Have you been vacuuming the gravel really good with a python? Water changes 1-2 times daily? Are you adding enought salt?
I am sure you have seen this link but please read again.
library/hospital/fwich/
Re: ich on mbu... help...
You still can vacuum the gravel sand just pinch the hose of the python. Do you have a python, if not give the gravel a good stir before changing water. Highly suggest you do get a python, makes things a whole lot easier.. How much salt did you add ( 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons.) Do another water change, should be doing daily.
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htse
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:33 pm
- Location (country): Toronto - Richmond Hill
Re: ich on mbu... help...
i already didtrekenk wrote:You still can vacuum the gravel sand just pinch the hose of the python. Do you have a python, if not give the gravel a good stir before changing water. Highly suggest you do get a python, makes things a whole lot easier.. How much salt did you add ( 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons.) Do another water change, should be doing daily.
i use the normal tube and clamp the end so the water goes really slow, i already added the medicine and salt. what is the layer surrounding my fish anyway..."!?-
Pufferpunk
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Re: ich on mbu... help...
What is that on his skin (not the ich spots) in your 1st pic? Is it peeling?
I wouldn't use any meds on a puffer for this.
I wouldn't use any meds on a puffer for this.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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htse
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:33 pm
- Location (country): Toronto - Richmond Hill
Re: ich on mbu... help...
ya... its peeling, thats what im asking,,, what is that thing??Pufferpunk wrote:What is that on his skin (not the ich spots) in your 1st pic? Is it peeling?
I wouldn't use any meds on a puffer for this.
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FADE2BLACK_1973
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Re: ich on mbu... help...
I would not add ick guard to any tanks that has scaleless fish. It is way to harsh. My #1 ick med to any tank that has no scaleless fishes. Ick guard 2 for any scaleless fish. Oh and another tip that I got many years back, keep the tanks lights off until the ick is cleared up. I only start turning the lights back on about 1-2 weeks after no signs of ick.
Chris,
He who knows best knows how little he knows - Thomas Jefferson
He who knows best knows how little he knows - Thomas Jefferson
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
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T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: ich on mbu... help...
Ich meds cause puffer's skin to peel off. Add Melafix to the tank to help heal this, after you do an 80% WC & add fresh carbon to the tank for 24 hours, to remove all the meds. You can add 1 tbsp sate/10g though right now & raise the temp to 86.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"