Hello,
My Dwarf Puffer has had a bout of Ich which seems to be fading with the temperature at 31c in the tank.
My question is that is it best to keep the Tank at the higher temperature to hinder the blight of Ich? Maybe 28c??
-Jerry
Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
jeromecarlyoung
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:45 pm
- Location (country): Yeovil, Somerset, UK
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
How long have you been treating for the ich?
The temperature should be kept high for one month after you see the last of the ich ( if your fish is tolerating it ok)
The temperature should be kept high for one month after you see the last of the ich ( if your fish is tolerating it ok)
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jeromecarlyoung
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:45 pm
- Location (country): Yeovil, Somerset, UK
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
The Ich seems to be fading but its on Puffs tiny Pectoral Fin so i want to keep this as healthy as possible.
You wouldnt have thought it possible to keep on such a fast moving fin.
I have got some Parazin P in reserve but don't want to go down the chemical route yet. The aquarium is planted so I'd like to preserve that too.
Thanks Jerry
You wouldnt have thought it possible to keep on such a fast moving fin.
I have got some Parazin P in reserve but don't want to go down the chemical route yet. The aquarium is planted so I'd like to preserve that too.
Thanks Jerry
-
Pufferpunk
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
That med isn't for ich & you can easily treat without any meds: library/hospital/fwich/
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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RTR
- Mentor
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Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
I have no clue as to the high temp. resistance of DPs, but keeping the tank temp beyond a fish's normal sustainable range for a month is greatly excessive IMHO and IME. For many tropicals, a month at or above 30C would be very highly stressful if not fatal, especially fish with Ich-compromised gills. If a week at high temp does not kill off the parasite, nothing will.
The Ich parasite is not "holding on" it is embedded in the skin, not on the surface. The surface lesion you see initially is the embedded parasite. The worse lesion you see later is the surface damage left after the parasite itself has pushed its way back out at its now-larger size. Healing time of that lesion is not a symptom of the parasite still being present - it is recovery time from the surface skin open lesion left behind by the enlarged parasite's departure.
HTH
The Ich parasite is not "holding on" it is embedded in the skin, not on the surface. The surface lesion you see initially is the embedded parasite. The worse lesion you see later is the surface damage left after the parasite itself has pushed its way back out at its now-larger size. Healing time of that lesion is not a symptom of the parasite still being present - it is recovery time from the surface skin open lesion left behind by the enlarged parasite's departure.
HTH
Where's the fish? - Neptune
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
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T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
Melafix will help with the damage the cyst is doing to the fish's skin. Add an airstone--between the high temps & Melafix, the o2 levels will be depleted.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
jeromecarlyoung
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:45 pm
- Location (country): Yeovil, Somerset, UK
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
I am having a funny one here as my Oto which died started off with white cotton area and then we found a fish lice so I'm not sure what's the issue here. I tried to drag the Lice out by it's leg (it had created a hole) and pulled the Lice's leg off; not good. Interpet chemicals fisnished off the Oto.
I have "eSHa optima fish health booster"; I guess that's not he same as Melafix. actually just read about it and it isn't.
Off to the shops!!
Thanks Jerry
Ps- I did look at a weather station ner mailbar in India where these fish come from and most of the year the day temperatures are between 32c to 40c. Pretty hot stuff.
The Otos from near Rio de janeiro maybe used to cooler night temps but still up in the 20s and 30s so I'm hoping that these fish don't mind a little heat for a bit.
Is 27-28c ok for these boys to avoid the Ich; I got extra bubbles.
I have "eSHa optima fish health booster"; I guess that's not he same as Melafix. actually just read about it and it isn't.
Off to the shops!!
Thanks Jerry
Ps- I did look at a weather station ner mailbar in India where these fish come from and most of the year the day temperatures are between 32c to 40c. Pretty hot stuff.
The Otos from near Rio de janeiro maybe used to cooler night temps but still up in the 20s and 30s so I'm hoping that these fish don't mind a little heat for a bit.
Is 27-28c ok for these boys to avoid the Ich; I got extra bubbles.
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
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T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
Yes, that temp is good.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
jeromecarlyoung
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:45 pm
- Location (country): Yeovil, Somerset, UK
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
Just a last thing, someone on Dwarfpuffer.com mentioned that the low level of salt used in this process should be ok for plants. Is that anyone's experience??
-Jerry
-Jerry
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
As long as you add no more then 1 tbsp/10g, they should be fine.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
jeromecarlyoung
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:45 pm
- Location (country): Yeovil, Somerset, UK
Re: Temperature and Dwarf Puffers
Thanks for that. 
-Jerry
-Jerry