My SA Puffers already have ICH!!!!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Now, it looks as if they have a secondary infection also--fin rot. By the base of their tail fins and pectorial fins, there is swelling and redness--fin rot? Man, they are in a bad way now. I am gonna start also treating them with tetracycline now, for the infection. If any of them survive, it will be a true miracle.
- Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Are you using Melafix or Pimafix? It is common fore this to happen, cause the parasite is eating at the puffer's skin. I just thought of something. I'm not sure how much to use but I've been reading about adding echineca to puffer's food, to raise their immune system. Maybe this could help. Are you using any ich meds? Maybe you should try something at 1/2 dose. Poor fellas!
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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ChesapeakeSwellfish
- Mentor
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- Location: southern Maryland
PP-- I have been using Melafix for the past 4 or 5 days, and, yes I am using half dose Ich meds--(Rid Ich).
CS--- I am using Tetracycline capsules (I work at a veterinary hospital), at about the rate of 250 mg/per 10 gallons. That is the dosage I have read and researched to use. I just open the capsules and pour in the Tetracycline powder.
This has just been such a horrible experience the past few weeks. I am doing anything and everything I can. Treatment, water changes, salt, raised temps, etc. etc.. I am at a loss, and I am losing the battle for sure.

CS--- I am using Tetracycline capsules (I work at a veterinary hospital), at about the rate of 250 mg/per 10 gallons. That is the dosage I have read and researched to use. I just open the capsules and pour in the Tetracycline powder.
This has just been such a horrible experience the past few weeks. I am doing anything and everything I can. Treatment, water changes, salt, raised temps, etc. etc.. I am at a loss, and I am losing the battle for sure.
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ChesapeakeSwellfish
- Mentor
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- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:54 pm
- Location: southern Maryland
Have you checked the pH of your capsules? The advantage to putting it in a separate container (peanut butter jar, even) is that you could buffer it in a jar more easily if you had to, than putting bicarb into your tank directly.
We use tetracycline in much higher dosages to mark fish earbones (otoliths) and have to mix it in buckets first with baking soda to buffer it. Your dosage may be ok without buffering but I'd check pH to be on the safe side - wouldn't hurt.
Hey, its obvious you're doing evrything you can for these fish.
We use tetracycline in much higher dosages to mark fish earbones (otoliths) and have to mix it in buckets first with baking soda to buffer it. Your dosage may be ok without buffering but I'd check pH to be on the safe side - wouldn't hurt.
Hey, its obvious you're doing evrything you can for these fish.
I am thinking about moving my Dwarf puffer and the pleco, and maybe one of the healthier SA puffers to my 10 gallon tank, and humanly putting the super bad sick looking puffers to sleep. Then, starting over with my 55 gallon tank. I have a friend who has 2 red belly piranhas that he wants to get rid of, so I might set up the 55 gallon for them, and take them off his hands--what do you all think? The 10 gallon is currently being used as a snail breeding tank for my puffers anyway, so I might as well put them in there. I will treat the puffers in the 55 gallon another day or 2, then move the better looking ones to the 10 gallon. I dunno. I probably can't get the piranhas for a week or so, since he just had a death in the family, so I could clean out and bleach the 55 gallon pretty good.
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ChesapeakeSwellfish
- Mentor
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- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:54 pm
- Location: southern Maryland
Looks like you're doing all you can. No one will fault you if/when the time comes to put them to sleep. Its hard for us to say if and when that time is because we can't see the fish, but you are a caring owner and I think you'll know when its time. These fish seem to be lingering and that's tough on you.
FYI, there are guidelines for humane disposal of experimental animals with sections for fish. I don't have a reference off the top of my head. It used to be considered most humane to administer enough anesthetic to put the fish to sleep and then administer the lethal dose to the water (putting it in all at once to start can give a bad reaction). There is also a case for freezing under anesthesia (in the liquid) only for fish. We would use 222 (tricaine methane sulfonate) in the lab, but clove oil is probably easier to get.
FYI, there are guidelines for humane disposal of experimental animals with sections for fish. I don't have a reference off the top of my head. It used to be considered most humane to administer enough anesthetic to put the fish to sleep and then administer the lethal dose to the water (putting it in all at once to start can give a bad reaction). There is also a case for freezing under anesthesia (in the liquid) only for fish. We would use 222 (tricaine methane sulfonate) in the lab, but clove oil is probably easier to get.
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ChesapeakeSwellfish
- Mentor
- Posts: 283
- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:54 pm
- Location: southern Maryland
Thanks CSF--it is very disturbing because I know the SA's are suffering mightily--I see them suffering. I feel for them. I got into fishkeeping for enjoyment, and this isn't enjoyable. I know *stuff* happens sometimes, and this is one of those times, but man, this is agonizing for them and me, and getting quite costly. Unless a miracle occurs very soon, I think the best thing to do is wave the white flag and put them out of their misery. I have decisions to make very soon.
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lisalisa
Quite a stubborn case, to be sure!
Perhaps it is time to change methods? I mean, you may have to euthanize them/lose them, maybe a different approach may work.
How much salt is in your tank? Perhaps at this point, using more salt than usual, changing water daily may work. just a thought.
Have you remembered to keep the salt levels up with your water changes? I'm sure you have, just trying to find a reason why the ich won't die!
Perhaps it is time to change methods? I mean, you may have to euthanize them/lose them, maybe a different approach may work.
How much salt is in your tank? Perhaps at this point, using more salt than usual, changing water daily may work. just a thought.
Have you remembered to keep the salt levels up with your water changes? I'm sure you have, just trying to find a reason why the ich won't die!
I use 1 rounded tablespoon of Aquarium Salt per 10 gallons. Yes, I add the appropriate amount back after each change. I have been doing every other day water changes for almost 3 weeks now. I just added more salt to the tank, and more melfix. I will treat for Ich in a couple hours. I am on my second bottle of Ich meds, and after it is gone, I am done. I will then just use heat and salt--if they live long enough. The bad thing is that I am going out of town this weekend for a week, so what will be in their fate will be I guess.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact: