ich

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Read this before posting!!

Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.

1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.

2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.

3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)

4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.

5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.

We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.

While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.

Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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davew
Dwarf Puffer
Posts: 71
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 4:36 pm
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ich

Post by davew »

it now looks like my ceylon puffer has got ich ,i got him on monday and i thought i could see a few spots but is wasn't sure until today, he was in fresh water at the LFS but is now in brackish at 1.006
will the fact that he is in brackish water kill the ich or should i raise the temperature :)
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xrayjeeper83
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Re: ich

Post by xrayjeeper83 »

raising the temp will help. and the fact he is in BW is good
RTR wrote:Fahakas do not have tank mates, they may have swimming food reserves.
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melbell86
Figure 8 Puffer
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Re: ich

Post by melbell86 »

i thought i had ich on my new GSP i got over a week ago, but someone told me to look more closely because it could be salt. And sure enough, it was! I can sometimes see salt powder residue on my plants if it doesnt completely mix before i put it in the tank, and the salt can stick to your puffers skin and it looks just like ich! If it is ich, the salt in the tank as well as a higher temp (80ish degrees) should get rid of it :)
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Pufferpunk
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Re: ich

Post by Pufferpunk »

Could possibly just be his tiny spines. Is it on his fins too?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
davew
Dwarf Puffer
Posts: 71
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 4:36 pm
Location (country): north east (uk)

Re: ich

Post by davew »

it's not his spines i can see it mainly underneath especially when his belly is black but there also a few spots on his fins, it does look like small grains of salt but doesn't ich look exactly like that as well :)
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