Hair Algae Help

[OCgatergal]

My 29 g is overun with I think hair algae all over my plants. Its these grey strands coming up the sword plants and wisteria. What would be the best way to elimitnate these algae, I know that my tank is overstocked already so that takes out a mollie and snails and shrimp would get gobbled. I've tried to reduce lighting but its not working. Any help?

[marksrush]

Can you post a pic of the algae, or can you google around and find us something we can look at? "Hair algae" is commonly used to describe at least a couple of different types of algae. Is it like dark tufts of straight hair coming up from the surfaces of plant leaves and tank equipment? Or is it a wispy tangle of ultra-thin strands?

[OCgatergal]

My Background is black so that isn't very clear. There is green spot algae also but not a big deal. This is the heaviest case, almost to the point that it blanketed the leaves, it has a few bubble trapped in it too.
Its that black stuff



Kinda like this but much more severe
http://www.aqua-fish.net/imgs/articles/hair-algae-1.jpg

[crazedpuffer]

If it's really long your best off just grabbing it and tearing it off. You might wanna bleach some decorations too.
There is a way to do a bleach dip on live plants.. you might want to look into that.

[bauk]

I have the same O*&%&^%#$*(&%(*& algea.. and i cant get it away! Is it the short version? Say 1 a 2 cm long?The only thing that helps is with you're fingers and schrub it away... If you find an other way, let it know!

[marksrush]

It looks like you might be talking about brush algae, a form of red algae. Supposedly, this fish will help if you can find one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siamese_algae_eater

I think the formula for a bleach dip is one part bleach to nineteen parts water, but you'll have to research around for the exact procedure. I think it involves leaving the live plant in the solution for a couple of minutes, but that's from memory, and my memory is pretty faulty.

Also, see if this helps you: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/red-algae.html

Although now that I've reexamined your pics, I'm not sure if it's brush algae or not. The top pic looks like the leaf might have a mass of brush algae on it, but the bottom pic and the one at the link you posted don't look like brush algae.

[By_a_coo]

The algae in the substrate showed in the second picture looks like cyanobacteria. Did you test ammonia recently?

High presence of organic compounds and ammonia are the main cause of algae. First off, try to remove them and do frequently and big water changes.

[Jivenjune]

I hear algae tends to grow at an alarming rate when there is a significant quantity of phosphates or silicates (someone may need to verify this). Perhaps you can try using a phosphate/silicate magnet if you're not using RO/DI water.

[OCgatergal]

Its not brush algae i think because it's not all grouped in bunches just thread about half an inch spreading evenly down the leaf.
I don't think my substrate is pictured in the 2nd photograph just the leaf and the BG. So I'm not sure about that ish..
I might just rub the stuff off or by a new light since, though my light hasn't burned out, I heard if you don't replace it, the spectrum can shift and cause algae bloom

[RTR]

Nutrients and light = plants or algae.

Imbalanced nutrients and light = algae

Balanced nutrients and proper light = good plants

Do you have test kits for nitrate and phosphate? If so, what are the numbers you get from the the tests?

What is the lighting on the tank? All details help, including the age of the tubes.

How many hours per day is it on?

What is your water change schedule and what percentage is changed each time?

Healthy live plants with proper lighting and balanced nutrients in relation to the lighting will out-compete algae. When the lighting is wrong - too much, too little, wrong spectrum, old tubes - algae will out-compete the vascular plants and mosses. When the nutrients are out of balance - too much, too little - and the lighting poor, algae is certain.

Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) is absolutely required, but too much promotes some types of algae, too little will promote others. Algae identification is not as easy as many folk think - but some are dead easy. A number of the filamentous types are really tricky, and there are many, many of them.

Phosphates (chemical symbol PO4) are also absolutely required, but need to be in proper proportion to the nitrogen in order to avoid algae.

Potassium (chemical symbol K) is also absolutely required, but some excess does not promote algae. This is handy, as we have no hobby tests for this ion.

Carbon is also absolutely required (chemical symbol C), as it makes up about 40% of most plant's dry weight, but in low light to some moderately lighted tanks is obtained from dissolved CO2 (carbon dioxide) in the water. Some moderately lighted and all high light light tanks require bio-available carbon supplement.

If any of those macro-nutrients is in excess (other than potassium) , algae is favored over higher plants. If any of those nutrients is lacking , algae is favored over higher plants,

There is also a longer list of micro-nutrients - things needed in much lower concentrations, whose lack may slow down higher plants plants, but some excess is not usually harmful,although imbalances may be.

This all sounds impossibly complex, but in practice it is relative simple and straight-forward. Providing clean water (largish routine partial water changes) and low to moderate lighting may be all that is needed. If more is required at this level, a couple of hobby test kits will tell you how much or what is required. For some moderately light and all higher light tank, routine supplements are needed along with the water changes, but no more testing may be required. It can be straight-forward if you can do regular water changes.

Soluble silicates in the water supply do promote diatom alga. Your utility can give you the information on silicate levels in the local supply. If you want high-light aquascaped planted tanks, you may nee to pre-treat high soluble silicate water. For most other tanks, it is an easily controlled, a nuisance at worst, and in many area is non-existent.

HTH

[OCgatergal]

thanks for your help RTR,I do 30ish% weekly water changes I think the problem is I have a 4 year old tube. I do 12-14 hours because I get home late after school but I've been trying to limit light, Is the best way to go to buy a new light?

[Myaj]

Buying a new light and using a timer so its only on 8 hrs a day wouldn't hurt.

Sometimes with the hair type algaes and even BGA, increasing your current can help a lot.

[RTR]

I agree strongly w/Myaj - replace the tube and use timer(s) liberally. I could not survive without timers -you would not believe how many I use, these days almost all digital, with memory back-up or computer control. This is not spoiling yourself, it is survival for multi-tank folk.

BGA is not really an algae, it is a photosynthetic bacterium (or a family of such), and is one of the master biofilm-builders. Once established, you cannot starve it out - they are also master recyclers of nutrients - you can get the the water to underdetectible nutrients even by field grade tests and they still persist. BUT, they are highly sensitive to currents. If you vacuum almost of the film out and increase current in the tank, with a little fine tuning you can wipe out BGA. Erythromycin is specific against it also and does not hit biofilters.

The old system of classifying everything photosynthetic as a plant is out the window. Now we are supposed to deal with three different kingdoms at least - and it still does not hold up well. The definitions of the tiniest and likely oldest life forms of our planet will undergo many more changes before we really understand them- it will be some time before we really do. If I were starting over today, I would likely want to study the deep sea vents - that would make biomedical physiology and pharmacology look simple.