New Fig-8's have film on eyes

Oh no! Sick fish?! Come here and see if someone can help!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!

Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.

1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.

2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.

3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)

4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.

5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.

We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.

While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.

Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
User avatar
Peregrine
Green Spotted Puffer
Posts: 290
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:36 pm
My Puffers: F8's (given to a fellow enthusiast)
Fahaka (My sole project for a while)
Location: Canadian Prairies

Post by Peregrine »

Water conditions aside(although very, very important) to treat symptoms (if not the problem) melafix (and Primafix.) may help relieve stress, and prevent any secondary infections of any fish in a weakened (stressed) state.. (sorry if this was already suggested, but I seem to be missing parts of the thread-Like the beginning)--but it did help my one F'8 when he had cloudy eye(s), reasons I got ranged from trauma to increasing SG to rapidly --as I was told, may not help, but cant hurt, and at-least you feel like your doing something
Pamela
Green Spotted Puffer
Posts: 456
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 8:50 am
Location: Oxford, UK

Post by Pamela »

Also, you may not have enough bacteria to cope with the sudden spike in bioload...puffers are dirty fish, so I reckon it's water changes city till your culture catches up.
Pami.
Fahakafan
Puffer Fry
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 12:03 pm

Post by Fahakafan »

The one thing that isn't mentioned here is that all the substrate and "live rock" came from freshwater right. Now if memory serves me right the saltwater bacteria is not the same as in fw, which would boil down to the tank was not cycled. Everyone is here for only one reason OUR FISH if you all
post questions here then at least be willing to listen. PP has helped me with
alot of my tank problems in the past. Listen to her. Set egos aside for the sake of our little aquatic friends. :D
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

Lace rock from an established FW tank is fine & helpful. Could be why his tank is cycled at all. He said nothing about live rock from a SW tank.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Fahakafan
Puffer Fry
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 12:03 pm

Post by Fahakafan »

I was just always told that
FW water bacteria will not servive the change to salt.
I was going off this statement.....


also added large pieces of lace rock from an established FW tank also for bacteria. [quote]
Fahakafan
Puffer Fry
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 12:03 pm

Post by Fahakafan »

See old dogs do learn new tricks. I learned something. Thanks! :D
User avatar
Pufferpunk
Queen Admin
Posts: 32976
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
Gender: Female
My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
Contact:

Post by Pufferpunk »

Well, since he deletet his origional post, this thread is getting confusing.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
lisalisa

Post by lisalisa »

You're right Fahakafan, FW and SW bacteria are different, and will not survive. That's why you should change the SG very slowly, so that as the FW type dies off, the SW type has enough time to establish itself.
Post Reply