GSP head-standing
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
GSP head-standing
Can't provide hard numbers about the aquarium - the water was tested about two weeks ago.
20 gallon, 2 small green spotted puffers.
Feeding everyday in the evening (frozen mollusk), with snails. Sometimes tropical flakes. They were bought from a shop that knows nothing about them, in freshwater. They're still freshwater with aquarium salt - I understand they need to be switched to brackish/marine, slowly, asap.
I was on vacation for a week, they were fed regularly besides the last several days of my trip.
After the first return feeding - one of them is head-standing. Do fish ever recover from this? Any common remedies/reasons for this? Their tummies are white, and top heads are neon green.
I do have a 5 gallon for snails, and added veggies today incase the head-standing is from constipation.
The tank has been set up for about two months, plus 3 days while it cycled before the introduction of the fish. Also, I'm doing about 35-40% water changes every week.
20 gallon, 2 small green spotted puffers.
Feeding everyday in the evening (frozen mollusk), with snails. Sometimes tropical flakes. They were bought from a shop that knows nothing about them, in freshwater. They're still freshwater with aquarium salt - I understand they need to be switched to brackish/marine, slowly, asap.
I was on vacation for a week, they were fed regularly besides the last several days of my trip.
After the first return feeding - one of them is head-standing. Do fish ever recover from this? Any common remedies/reasons for this? Their tummies are white, and top heads are neon green.
I do have a 5 gallon for snails, and added veggies today incase the head-standing is from constipation.
The tank has been set up for about two months, plus 3 days while it cycled before the introduction of the fish. Also, I'm doing about 35-40% water changes every week.
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Re: GSP head-standing
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
Sorry this has to be your 1st post. Start by reading the article in the Hosp section of our library on Air-Filled puffers. Then get reading on the GSP article in there. Then get yourself some good, liquid test kits. But before that, do a 50% water change on the tank, being sure to clean the substrate & under all decor.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: GSP head-standing
Thanks Pufferpunk.
Yeah, the water was tested and the ammonia/nitrate levels were high from being away. Yesterday, did a 50% water change and started adding salts to make it brackish. They both seemed better/more active - however he's still doing some head standing.
Right now, what I just noticed moments ago (I've been keeping a close eye) - is that there's a pulsating something in his throat. Looks like an adams apple - I did read the article you mentioned on air-filled puffers. Tried holding him upwards and shaking the tail to let out any air (article says to do this). I don't know. Any ideas about what's going on with his throat?
Yeah, the water was tested and the ammonia/nitrate levels were high from being away. Yesterday, did a 50% water change and started adding salts to make it brackish. They both seemed better/more active - however he's still doing some head standing.
Right now, what I just noticed moments ago (I've been keeping a close eye) - is that there's a pulsating something in his throat. Looks like an adams apple - I did read the article you mentioned on air-filled puffers. Tried holding him upwards and shaking the tail to let out any air (article says to do this). I don't know. Any ideas about what's going on with his throat?
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: GSP head-standing
What were the exact levels? You MUST get ammonia/nitrite to 0 & nitrate <20.
What salt did you add? Are you measuring it with a hydrometer?
What salt did you add? Are you measuring it with a hydrometer?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: GSP head-standing
before the change:
Ammonia - 0.5, Nitrite 0, Nitrate - 10, pH 7.2, Alkalinity - 80, Hardness - 75, Chlorine and Chloramine - 0
Instant Ocean sea salt, was told by [a different shop than before listed] to just "dump it all in." I added about a fourth of the package to water, and mixed it together before adding. Assuming I should repeat again in a week. Is adding salt something that's done continuously each water change?
No hydrometer, yet. I'll get one soon.
Tomorrow I'll be able to post the new water reading.
Ammonia - 0.5, Nitrite 0, Nitrate - 10, pH 7.2, Alkalinity - 80, Hardness - 75, Chlorine and Chloramine - 0
Instant Ocean sea salt, was told by [a different shop than before listed] to just "dump it all in." I added about a fourth of the package to water, and mixed it together before adding. Assuming I should repeat again in a week. Is adding salt something that's done continuously each water change?
No hydrometer, yet. I'll get one soon.
Tomorrow I'll be able to post the new water reading.
- Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: GSP head-standing
How big is the tank? How many cups do you think you added?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: GSP head-standing
I see in my original post it says 20 gallon, typo. It's a 10 gallon tank. They're still small. I'm siphoning it every other day. They're not staying in the 10 gallon for too long. I understand that it's not ideal at all & as long as they're there, it means more upkeep/water changes.
The salt is 3lbs, so close to a 1/4 of that, I imagine.
The salt is 3lbs, so close to a 1/4 of that, I imagine.
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: GSP head-standing
I would remove 75% of that salty water & replace it with fresh. then get busy reading the GSP article in our Library. There is also a sticky on how to make your water brackish, in the BW Puffer forum.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: GSP head-standing
I looked, there are more than one GSP articles. Which one are you referencing?
Also, this BP sticky? viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1659 / http://badmanstropicalfish.com/brackish/brackish.html ? It says "set up:" and then nothing, where GSPs are mentioned.
-Why do you suggest removing so much of the water?,
Also - I originally was using drinking water bought from the store. The water hardness was high, and I've since been using distilled (for several weeks) at the suggestion of someone who took aquaculture. I'm mentioning it because it may have significance?
Also, this BP sticky? viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1659 / http://badmanstropicalfish.com/brackish/brackish.html ? It says "set up:" and then nothing, where GSPs are mentioned.
-Why do you suggest removing so much of the water?,
Also - I originally was using drinking water bought from the store. The water hardness was high, and I've since been using distilled (for several weeks) at the suggestion of someone who took aquaculture. I'm mentioning it because it may have significance?
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suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: GSP head-standing
You have added way too much salt & it will crash your biological filtration.
library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19348
library/puffers-in-focus/an-introductio ... d-puffers/
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19348
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
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Re: GSP head-standing
Hmm...
Well, first off... Your tank isn't fully cycled, at least from what I've read.
You probably wanna get that started.
If you don't know about the cycling process, here is a simple explanation:
Your fish will naturally produce ammonia while they live in your aquarium; ammonia is extremely harmful to your fish even in low levels. A strand of bacteria will eventually colonize within your tank and convert your harmful ammonia to less harmful nitrites. Nitrites, however, are still fairly dangerous. Eventually, a bacteria will begin to grow which will consume your nitrites thereby producing nitrates. Nitrates are considerably less harmful to your puffers as long as it remains below 20ppm.
Once your aquarium readings indicate 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and traces of nitrates, your tank is cycled. Your fish will be able to live fairly comfortably in these conditions.
There are a few methods to jump start the cycling process. If they are in freshwater or very low-end brackish, let's say 1.002 or under, you should be able to seed your filter with the necessary bacteria to jump start the cycling process. The simplest way to do this is to either purchased used filter media from a local fish store and stick it into your filter or buy a bacterial supplement.
If you choose to do the latter, then you will probably want to purchase a bottle of Dr. Tim's Freshwater or Tetra SafeStart. Either of these will be suitable. I have not heard of any other such product that worked aside from one that existed only in Europe for a short period of time.
Aside from this, I would not overly worry about water hardness and PH unless they are indicating something extremely abnormal. Anywhere from 6.5-8.4 PH should be suitable for your puffer. It's more important that your PH stays consistent than to have the ideal PH for your specific fish.
It's much easier to cycle a freshwater tank than it is to cycle a marine tank. This is just a heads up. If you want to accurately measure your currently salinity, buy a hydrometer. Most fish stores carry them; I've personally had luck with Instant Ocean's hydrometer.
You'll need a hydrometer to safely increasing your salinity without crashing your biological filter system (the ammonia/nitrite eating bacteria). Guessing generally isn't a safe way to go about this.
Keep up those water changes. You also might want to buy a bottle or Prime in case your ammonia spikes to dangerous levels. It'll detoxify it pretty rapidly.
Best of luck and all that nonsense.
Well, first off... Your tank isn't fully cycled, at least from what I've read.
You probably wanna get that started.
If you don't know about the cycling process, here is a simple explanation:
Your fish will naturally produce ammonia while they live in your aquarium; ammonia is extremely harmful to your fish even in low levels. A strand of bacteria will eventually colonize within your tank and convert your harmful ammonia to less harmful nitrites. Nitrites, however, are still fairly dangerous. Eventually, a bacteria will begin to grow which will consume your nitrites thereby producing nitrates. Nitrates are considerably less harmful to your puffers as long as it remains below 20ppm.
Once your aquarium readings indicate 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and traces of nitrates, your tank is cycled. Your fish will be able to live fairly comfortably in these conditions.
There are a few methods to jump start the cycling process. If they are in freshwater or very low-end brackish, let's say 1.002 or under, you should be able to seed your filter with the necessary bacteria to jump start the cycling process. The simplest way to do this is to either purchased used filter media from a local fish store and stick it into your filter or buy a bacterial supplement.
If you choose to do the latter, then you will probably want to purchase a bottle of Dr. Tim's Freshwater or Tetra SafeStart. Either of these will be suitable. I have not heard of any other such product that worked aside from one that existed only in Europe for a short period of time.
Aside from this, I would not overly worry about water hardness and PH unless they are indicating something extremely abnormal. Anywhere from 6.5-8.4 PH should be suitable for your puffer. It's more important that your PH stays consistent than to have the ideal PH for your specific fish.
It's much easier to cycle a freshwater tank than it is to cycle a marine tank. This is just a heads up. If you want to accurately measure your currently salinity, buy a hydrometer. Most fish stores carry them; I've personally had luck with Instant Ocean's hydrometer.
You'll need a hydrometer to safely increasing your salinity without crashing your biological filter system (the ammonia/nitrite eating bacteria). Guessing generally isn't a safe way to go about this.
Keep up those water changes. You also might want to buy a bottle or Prime in case your ammonia spikes to dangerous levels. It'll detoxify it pretty rapidly.
Best of luck and all that nonsense.
Re: GSP head-standing
These poor guys came to me stressed out, I saw their bellies whiten with me and so on. If they don't make it, I won't keep a puffer again until I'm completely ready for one. I do wish to someday. Who knows.
Pufferpunk wasn't kidding about the salt levels. My other guy was just looking very rough. Thought he was dead (still at the filter, eyes popped out.) Now he's swimming around with the other.
Glad I didn't "dump it all in" like was suggested. Wonder if they'll pull through. I have 2.5 gallons new&pre-salt water, and filtered tap water & aquasafe. I'll do all that I can tonight.
Appreciate it.
Pufferpunk wasn't kidding about the salt levels. My other guy was just looking very rough. Thought he was dead (still at the filter, eyes popped out.) Now he's swimming around with the other.
Glad I didn't "dump it all in" like was suggested. Wonder if they'll pull through. I have 2.5 gallons new&pre-salt water, and filtered tap water & aquasafe. I'll do all that I can tonight.
Appreciate it.
Re: GSP head-standing
There's a small rock in my siphoning tube. Can't freakin get it out =^_^= Any tricks?
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Re: GSP head-standing
Use the metal coat hanger, and poke it out ( make it stright first)
"Lost time is never found again" Benjamin Franklin
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C valentini
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DPs
suvattii
burrfish
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Re: GSP head-standing
I'd try blowing thru it or run water thru it. You should be fine with dechlorinated tap water in your tank.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"