NOT SURE please help
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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JUSTCHILLING_88
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:47 pm
NOT SURE please help
Okay about 5 or 6 days ago i got a porcupine puffer from petco. He did not eat for about 3 days then on the 3rd night i seen him nibble on something. I noticed white spots on him about 3 or 2 days ago. I did the freshwater dip for about 10mins and then put him back in the tank and he seems to be doing good (swimming up and down like he has done since i got him). The ick is not bed at all (maybe 8 white spots). my question is after doing the dip how fast should i see the spots disapear???????? Or should i keep doing the dips every day untill the ick is gone?????(I was told to do the dip by someone from petco.) ps: im new to saltwater
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LilGreenPuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 5301
- Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:26 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Dwarf puffer - Thumbelina (only mine in my heart now; she lives in CT with my friend)
RIP Inigo Montoya, Fezzik, and Vizinni.
RIP James Bond. - Location (country): United States
- Location: Kentucky
Re: NOT SURE please help
Can you answer the questions in red? They are very important.
Here is an article on treating ich. Can you post a picture so we can make sure it's ich?
library/hospital/swich/
Here is an article on treating ich. Can you post a picture so we can make sure it's ich?
library/hospital/swich/
"I will give you a talisman. Whenever you are in doubt, or when the self becomes too much with you, apply the following test. Recall the face of the poorest and the weakest man whom you may have seen, and ask yourself, if the step you contemplate is going to be of any use to him or her. Will she gain anything by it? Will it restore her to a control over her own life and destiny? In other words, will it lead to freedom for the hungry and spiritually starving millions? Then you will find your doubts and your self melt away."
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi
Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi
Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
-
SammyDee
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1073
- Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:50 am
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 55g (2) GSP, (2) Maroon Clownfish, (1) blue damsel, And some soft corals and 1 Nem
45g FW community
20g snail and shrimp breeding tank for puffers - Location (country): USA USA USA USA
- Location: Detroit, Michigan
Re: NOT SURE please help
dang that sux I feel for ya man sounds like ick to me but like lil green puffer said you need to post all the water perimeters for a correct dianose. good luck hope he makes it keep us posted.
"DREAM AS IF YOU'LL LIVE FOREVER, LIVE AS IF YOU'L DIE TODAY' -JAMES DEAN
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JUSTCHILLING_88
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:47 pm
Re: NOT SURE please help
Just tested everthing.......................
Ammonia=0.25
Nitrate=1.0
pH=(GOOD THINIG I DID THIS TEST) LOOKS LIKE 7.8-8.0
Nitite=0
Alakalinity=300
He wont pose to take a pic.
*75 gallon tank
* 1 clown, and 3 blue dan ,and live rock
* has been sit up for over 2 months now
Ammonia=0.25
Nitrate=1.0
pH=(GOOD THINIG I DID THIS TEST) LOOKS LIKE 7.8-8.0
Nitite=0
Alakalinity=300
He wont pose to take a pic.
*75 gallon tank
* 1 clown, and 3 blue dan ,and live rock
* has been sit up for over 2 months now
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qtrhorse89
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:15 pm
- My Puffers: Ratchet- Tetraodon Lineatus
Hikaru- Figure Eight Puffer - Location: North Carolina
Re: NOT SURE please help
Hey there, I didn't even know they sold porks at petco.
Okay the ammonia in your tank is a good sign that it's not cycled properly. It should be 0 as well as nitrite. Nitrates should never go above 20. Your pH is fine. It should be 8.0 for saltwater as far as I know.
How was the tank cycled? Having ammonia present in the water will stress out the porcupine puff which will make the ich worse. Short term I'd recomend a nice large water change to bring down the ammonia. Long term you are going to have to get this tank cycled and asap. Read the article in the library on emergency cycling. I would try to find biospira to "instantcycle" the tank.
Hope this helps.
Okay the ammonia in your tank is a good sign that it's not cycled properly. It should be 0 as well as nitrite. Nitrates should never go above 20. Your pH is fine. It should be 8.0 for saltwater as far as I know.
How was the tank cycled? Having ammonia present in the water will stress out the porcupine puff which will make the ich worse. Short term I'd recomend a nice large water change to bring down the ammonia. Long term you are going to have to get this tank cycled and asap. Read the article in the library on emergency cycling. I would try to find biospira to "instantcycle" the tank.
Hope this helps.
"Okay. You! Out of the Gene Pool!"- Don't know who said it but I enjoy using it
I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one.
Tanks:
38 gallon: 1 Figure 8 puffer, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Knight Goby, 3 Black Mollies
30 gallon: 1 Blue Acara, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
120 gallon: Ratchet the Fahaka Puffer
I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one.
Tanks:
38 gallon: 1 Figure 8 puffer, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Knight Goby, 3 Black Mollies
30 gallon: 1 Blue Acara, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
120 gallon: Ratchet the Fahaka Puffer
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JUSTCHILLING_88
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:47 pm
Re: NOT SURE please help
Live sand tho..............
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mrgreen
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 983
- Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:17 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 1 dwarf puffer: Squirt
2 figure 8s: Escalator & Elevator - Location (country): United States
- Location: Michigan, USA
- Contact:
Re: NOT SURE please help
I have not kept a marine tank, but from what I've heard, live sand still needs to be cured as its not truely "live" unless it goes straight from one tank into yours.
I agree- you need to get your tank cycled and in the meantime do water changes to get rid of that ammonia. Biospira is great stuff. Hopefully you can get it locally so you can use it immediately. Otherwise, you can order it online at drsfosterandsmith.com
I agree- you need to get your tank cycled and in the meantime do water changes to get rid of that ammonia. Biospira is great stuff. Hopefully you can get it locally so you can use it immediately. Otherwise, you can order it online at drsfosterandsmith.com
"Puffs puff cuz they're puffs cuz they puff cuz they're puffs. - Nathan age 12
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LilGreenPuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 5301
- Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:26 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Dwarf puffer - Thumbelina (only mine in my heart now; she lives in CT with my friend)
RIP Inigo Montoya, Fezzik, and Vizinni.
RIP James Bond. - Location (country): United States
- Location: Kentucky
Re: NOT SURE please help
Yep, lots of water changes. You will eventually need a bigger tank. You may actually want to return your puffer for now, until your tank is cycled. Bio-Spira is a great idea. Don't use any other brand, though.
Here is a species profile on your puffer. ug.php/v/PufferPedia/Marine/D_Holocanthus/
How much live rock did you get? Did you cure it?
Here is the emergency cycling article that qtrhorse89 mentioned.
library/water-filtration/emergencycycle/
Please don't worry about your pH. It is perfect for marine water, and besides, pH is not a problem for most fish, puffers included.
Here is a species profile on your puffer. ug.php/v/PufferPedia/Marine/D_Holocanthus/
How much live rock did you get? Did you cure it?
Here is the emergency cycling article that qtrhorse89 mentioned.
library/water-filtration/emergencycycle/
Please don't worry about your pH. It is perfect for marine water, and besides, pH is not a problem for most fish, puffers included.
"I will give you a talisman. Whenever you are in doubt, or when the self becomes too much with you, apply the following test. Recall the face of the poorest and the weakest man whom you may have seen, and ask yourself, if the step you contemplate is going to be of any use to him or her. Will she gain anything by it? Will it restore her to a control over her own life and destiny? In other words, will it lead to freedom for the hungry and spiritually starving millions? Then you will find your doubts and your self melt away."
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi
Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi
Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
-
Lil' Swimz$
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1686
- Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:26 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Lorteti - Peaches
- Location (country): USA
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: NOT SURE please help
Although pH fluctuations can be harmful, I think. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.
Last edited by Lil' Swimz$ on Mon Sep 21, 2009 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ha ha, he he! DAncE whEn yoU're HAPpppy! He he he! DAnce, danCE, DANCe!
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: NOT SURE please help
Cycling a SW tank is totally different than cycling a FW tank. No amount of Bio-Spira will cure live rock if there is any die off still going on. 2 months should have taken care of that though. No new rock since then? What test kits are you using? You really should be seeing more nitrate at this point.
Definately get the ammonia down to 0 with water changes. How often are you doing them & how much? Do you have a sump? Skimmer? Powerheads? Those last 2 things are a highly recommended for good filtration, along with your LR. How many lbs do you have in there?
Now, about the whitespot. 10 minutes in FW isn't long enough. 30 minutes are recomended, unless the fish looks stressed. All the FW dip is remove the existing cycts on the fish. When you put the fish back into the infected water, it will just get them on him again. FW dips are for when a fish is totally infested & you need to remove some of them right away to save the fish. Are you using tap water or RO water for the dips & for your tank? Are you matching the pH of the FW for dips? The ONLY way to completely remove the parasites from the water forever, is as by leaving the tank fallow & hypo for all the fish, as described in the SW Ich article. If the fish are only lightly bothered by this though, you can always try dosing garlic & vitamin C but be prepared for this to probably be a cronic problem--every time you add a fish or they get stressed in any way.
Definately get the ammonia down to 0 with water changes. How often are you doing them & how much? Do you have a sump? Skimmer? Powerheads? Those last 2 things are a highly recommended for good filtration, along with your LR. How many lbs do you have in there?
Now, about the whitespot. 10 minutes in FW isn't long enough. 30 minutes are recomended, unless the fish looks stressed. All the FW dip is remove the existing cycts on the fish. When you put the fish back into the infected water, it will just get them on him again. FW dips are for when a fish is totally infested & you need to remove some of them right away to save the fish. Are you using tap water or RO water for the dips & for your tank? Are you matching the pH of the FW for dips? The ONLY way to completely remove the parasites from the water forever, is as by leaving the tank fallow & hypo for all the fish, as described in the SW Ich article. If the fish are only lightly bothered by this though, you can always try dosing garlic & vitamin C but be prepared for this to probably be a cronic problem--every time you add a fish or they get stressed in any way.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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JUSTCHILLING_88
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:47 pm
Re: NOT SURE please help
-SKIMMER
-POWERHEAD
-FLUVAL 305
-20-30 POUNDS OF LIVE ROCK
I TAKE IT ALL I REALLY NEED TO DO IS A WATER CHANGE?
-POWERHEAD
-FLUVAL 305
-20-30 POUNDS OF LIVE ROCK
I TAKE IT ALL I REALLY NEED TO DO IS A WATER CHANGE?
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: NOT SURE please help
Get rid of the canister (unless you want to use it for chemical filtration) & get yourself a good skimmer for that tank. Also, you need 1-1/5,bs of cured LR/gallon, for it to be useful. Test your nitrate again, being sure to sshake each chemical for at least 1 minute.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"