IPs
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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qtrhorse89
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:15 pm
- My Puffers: Ratchet- Tetraodon Lineatus
Hikaru- Figure Eight Puffer - Location: North Carolina
IPs
So I got to thinking the other day and I was wondering if you have a brackish fish with ips that was kept in fresh water prior to purchase and then you aclimated them to a brackish tank (like using the drip method or something) would this kill any of the internal parasites the fish may have? Or would the parasites handle the change also and you would still need to treat? I was just wondering since salt and heat treats ick and other bacterial diseases if it would treat ips too...
"Okay. You! Out of the Gene Pool!"- Don't know who said it but I enjoy using it
I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one.
Tanks:
38 gallon: 1 Figure 8 puffer, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Knight Goby, 3 Black Mollies
30 gallon: 1 Blue Acara, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
120 gallon: Ratchet the Fahaka Puffer
I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one.
Tanks:
38 gallon: 1 Figure 8 puffer, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Knight Goby, 3 Black Mollies
30 gallon: 1 Blue Acara, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
120 gallon: Ratchet the Fahaka Puffer
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pufferpuggirl
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 3979
- Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:04 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffs & Stuff:
1 x M Abei
1 x M Turgidus
1 x T Palembangensis
1 x M Baileyii
1 x T Schoutedeni
1 x T Leiurus
1 x T Miurus
Rainbow crab
crayfish - Location (country): Yorkshire, GB
- Location: South Yorkshire, UK
Re: IPs
"I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one."
I love that! Really true that one too!
(sorry don't have an answer to your question, but just had to comment on that comment)
I love that! Really true that one too!
(sorry don't have an answer to your question, but just had to comment on that comment)
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
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Dadof4
- Tech Team
- Posts: 2862
- Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:50 am
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: 1 GSP (Microfiche) RIP, 1 Monotrete Turgidus (Leon) in a 30gal. 1 Monotrete suvattii in a 40 gal FW. 120 gallon BW with 3 juvenile Dragon Gobies (so cool). 55 gal with a 2" GSP named Hank. 180 gallon being set up for a Fahaka in the next few months!
- Location (country): United States
- Location: North Wisconsin
Re: IPs
The IP's would survive. The reason increasing SG works on parasites like Ich is that as the SG goes up the salt draws water out of the cell and salt in to it, basically making it shrivel up and die or explode (lyse). The cell has to come in contact with the water iself for this to happen. IP are internal and they really don't have contact with the surrounding water for this to occur. The egg stage and larval stage of IP's are spore like, very prtected from the outside world so the SG won't make a difference. They still need to be treatred with antiparasitics.
"Darwin swings...annnnnnd a miss. Boy Jim, Chuck's suffered at the plate tonight. He's 0 for 3 and I'm not sure he's recovered from that shoulder pull a few weeks ago. I'll bet the front office is re-thinking that contract."
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qtrhorse89
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:15 pm
- My Puffers: Ratchet- Tetraodon Lineatus
Hikaru- Figure Eight Puffer - Location: North Carolina
Re: IPs
Lol i'm glad you like it. And it is so true. They are addicting like little puppy dogs that live in water.
Dadof4,
Thanks so much that makes perfect sense. I didn't think it would affect them when they were still internal but I wasn't sure about the egg and larval stages. Thanks so much for the reply.
Dadof4,
Thanks so much that makes perfect sense. I didn't think it would affect them when they were still internal but I wasn't sure about the egg and larval stages. Thanks so much for the reply.
"Okay. You! Out of the Gene Pool!"- Don't know who said it but I enjoy using it
I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one.
Tanks:
38 gallon: 1 Figure 8 puffer, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Knight Goby, 3 Black Mollies
30 gallon: 1 Blue Acara, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
120 gallon: Ratchet the Fahaka Puffer
I'm learning that puffer fish are like pringles. There is no such thing as only wanting one.
Tanks:
38 gallon: 1 Figure 8 puffer, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Knight Goby, 3 Black Mollies
30 gallon: 1 Blue Acara, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
120 gallon: Ratchet the Fahaka Puffer