Figure 8 Cloudy eye
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Peregrine
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:36 pm
- My Puffers: F8's (given to a fellow enthusiast)
Fahaka (My sole project for a while) - Location: Canadian Prairies
Figure 8 Cloudy eye
Got home from work, and noticed that both my figure 8's had one cloudy eye each--opposite eyes (same side when they are facing one another)
What would cause that,
fight? (never shown any aggression to one another)
Scratch from a plastic plant (but on both?)
Cataracts (in fish?)
or is it indicative of another problem
Both fish are active and just ate-both eyes on each are still mobile
Tank is 29 gal
NitRAte=25
NitRIte =0
NH3=0
SG 1.005
PH=7.5-KH low as well but that is another post
What would cause that,
fight? (never shown any aggression to one another)
Scratch from a plastic plant (but on both?)
Cataracts (in fish?)
or is it indicative of another problem
Both fish are active and just ate-both eyes on each are still mobile
Tank is 29 gal
NitRAte=25
NitRIte =0
NH3=0
SG 1.005
PH=7.5-KH low as well but that is another post
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
I have encountered that when new figure 8's get their SG in their tank raised too high too fast.
<80 gal> 2 GSPs & a Ceylon!
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
- Peregrine
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:36 pm
- My Puffers: F8's (given to a fellow enthusiast)
Fahaka (My sole project for a while) - Location: Canadian Prairies
how long after the last water change?
I have been raising it, on PP advice, and the article in the library stopped at 1.005...1.005 this week.1.004 week before..think it was around 1.002 when I started about a month, but that was before the refractometer..not too sure on those results from the swing arm hydrometer
I have been raising it, on PP advice, and the article in the library stopped at 1.005...1.005 this week.1.004 week before..think it was around 1.002 when I started about a month, but that was before the refractometer..not too sure on those results from the swing arm hydrometer
I would try using mela fix. If all goes well theres no problem.
<80 gal> 2 GSPs & a Ceylon!
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
- Peregrine
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:36 pm
- My Puffers: F8's (given to a fellow enthusiast)
Fahaka (My sole project for a while) - Location: Canadian Prairies
Well treatment was semi-successful. (melafix and primafix) the one puffer that has always had a darker coloring (more distinctive), cleared up by sat-nite..the other deteriorated rapidly...both eyes became cloudy, and he became more and more pale..died Sunday :37: ...The one that lived, shows no signs of illness, eats and swims...although he has become more timid, hiding out at the back of the tank, behind the plants
-
monsterpuffer
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2005 6:09 pm
- Contact:
Sorry for your loss.
*Note to all: Melafix and Pimafix are natural remedies, if you see any signs of ich, cloud eye, etc these are the best treatments that are puffer safe!*
*Note to all: Melafix and Pimafix are natural remedies, if you see any signs of ich, cloud eye, etc these are the best treatments that are puffer safe!*
<80 gal> 2 GSPs & a Ceylon!
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Mela/Pimafix will not rid a fish of ich but will prevent secondary infections due to the parasite invading the fish's skin.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Melafix (sorry should have mentioned) is not a direct cure as PP noted (thnx), but it does come in handy to help de-stress the puffs helping them be more prone for a remedy.
<80 gal> 2 GSPs & a Ceylon!
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
<75 gal> 3 Figure 8s & 1 Butterlfy Goby
<75 gal> *Empty*
<55 gal> 3 Gymnothorax polyuranodon (FW eel)
<30 long> Pair of Lorteti's & Irrubesco's, 1 DP, Endlers Livebearers, Clown Pleco, Royal Pleco, 2 Bumblebee Cats
<20 long> 4 Flounders
<4 gal> 2 Sparkling Gouramis & 3 ottos heavily planted

~Tihsho~
- Peregrine
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:36 pm
- My Puffers: F8's (given to a fellow enthusiast)
Fahaka (My sole project for a while) - Location: Canadian Prairies
Are u saying this was ich?...or just a side note to the medication...I am not sure myself as I have never really seen a fish with it.thought it was less likely in a BW environment. The puffer that did die-his fins went from translucent to whitish, opaque, not consistenly through out the fin, but radiating out from the base of the fin (rising sun). but not cotteny (if thats a word), like I thought a fungus would look like..I thought it was a sign of stress due to illness, than a symptom of the illness itself
