As you may have read, or not, I've been having problems with both my suvattii tank and my Baileyi tank. I finally have gotten the wormer and am doing my suvattii tank tonight, can't wait to see how it works.
The question pertains to my Baileyi tank. There's some apple snails as well as some Ramshorn snails in that tank, and the packet says that the wormer will kill all the snails that are in the tank. I'd like to save them if I can, but my question is this: If I remove those snails and put them in another tank, will the snails infect another tank? I hate to kill them all, and so I'd like to move them, but I don't want to move them to another tank, and have them infect the tank. So I need for someone to tell me what I can do with them. Are they savable? (is that even a word?). That's why I'm not doing the Baileyi tank tonight, I want to find out what I can do with them first.
Also, I've just come from feeding my Baileyi, now he's the one I think made the white stringy poop several days ago. I haven't seen it in 3 days though. Can a puffer get himself over having a worm? Meaning, can they get through it without intervention and having a worming? My Baileyi only took one mussel tonight, and this time he came out of his terracotta pot so I got a good look at him. He doesn't look skinny and his belly didn't look lumpy. I'm still going to do the worming tomorrow, but I'm just curious if a puffer is able to get over it on their own. I believe my Congo died as a result of internal parasites, now that I know a little bit more about them. She started getting darker and eventually was nearly black when she died. Poor thing, I wish I had had some wormer on hand, I feel so badly for her. I know I should mourn my suvattii that died, and I am sorry it did, but the Congo was special to me and I really miss her alot.
So anyway, any help is much welcomed, thank you.
Suz
Questions About Using Wormer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
pufferpuggirl
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Questions About Using Wormer
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LilGreenPuffer
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Re: Questions About Using Wormer
The snails will definitely take over another tank, so don't move them there. My worry about killing them with the meds is that they'd create a ginormous ammonia spike. Try a plastic bin instead.
Don't just let your fish get over parasites on its own. Bad plan. Just be sure they've got them before treating.
Don't just let your fish get over parasites on its own. Bad plan. Just be sure they've got them before treating.
"I will give you a talisman. Whenever you are in doubt, or when the self becomes too much with you, apply the following test. Recall the face of the poorest and the weakest man whom you may have seen, and ask yourself, if the step you contemplate is going to be of any use to him or her. Will she gain anything by it? Will it restore her to a control over her own life and destiny? In other words, will it lead to freedom for the hungry and spiritually starving millions? Then you will find your doubts and your self melt away."
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi
Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
Found among the papers of Mohatma Gandhi
Come and visit http://www.thetriopsforum.com!
I AM A DUDETTE!
NEED NITRIFYING BACTERIA FOR YOUR NEW TANK? PM ME!
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pufferpuggirl
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- Location: South Yorkshire, UK
Re: Questions About Using Wormer
I wasn't intending to let my puffers get over the parasites on their own, I only wanted to know if it's possible since I'm not seeing any more of the stringy white poo and he's eating more normally now.
I'm not worried about the snails taking over, I just don't want them to infect another tank, that's what I'm worried about. Those snails were going to be puffer food eventually. I don't like killing something if it can be saved.
I'm not worried about the snails taking over, I just don't want them to infect another tank, that's what I'm worried about. Those snails were going to be puffer food eventually. I don't like killing something if it can be saved.
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
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Myaj
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Re: Questions About Using Wormer
What medication are you planning on using? There's really only a handful we suggest using with puffers, as they are so touchy when it comes to these things. Something that says it might kill your snails has a good chance of also hurting/killing your puffers and the biofilter.
And of course, we don't generally medicate the water/tank, we medicate the food and get the fish to EAT the medication. If you do it that way, your snails should be in no danger. Treating the water usually doesn't work nearly as well as getting the fish to eat the medication.
As far as if they can get over parasites themselves.. not really.. if their immune systems are strong and they aren't under any stress, they might be able to fight them off but the parasites will always be there, waiting for a chance to reproduce out of control.
Considering nearly all puffers are wild caught and not bred in captivity, its very likely they DO have internal parasites and even if they don't show signs, deworming is a great preventative measure.
And of course, we don't generally medicate the water/tank, we medicate the food and get the fish to EAT the medication. If you do it that way, your snails should be in no danger. Treating the water usually doesn't work nearly as well as getting the fish to eat the medication.
As far as if they can get over parasites themselves.. not really.. if their immune systems are strong and they aren't under any stress, they might be able to fight them off but the parasites will always be there, waiting for a chance to reproduce out of control.
Considering nearly all puffers are wild caught and not bred in captivity, its very likely they DO have internal parasites and even if they don't show signs, deworming is a great preventative measure.
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pufferpuggirl
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1 x T Schoutedeni
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1 x T Miurus
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- Location: South Yorkshire, UK
Re: Questions About Using Wormer
I'm using one that's made for Discus, it was suggested by someone who has kept puffers for much longer than myself, I've already dosed my suvattii tank with it.
It's made by Kusuri, it's called 'new wormer plus' and it's got Flubendazole as the main ingredient. I did some research on it and apparently other people have said it works good, it's a one-time dose, although I've heard you should do it every few months.
The reason I went with a wormer that doses the tank instead of the food is because my suvattii aren't really eating, and the Baileyi is very picky about what he eats, I thought this would be quicker, and it would be over with, instead of dragging it out.
I know that people don't always agree with the different ways that people react to problems with puffers, I just would like to think that people would respect the fact that I'm doing what I think is best for my puffers.
It's made by Kusuri, it's called 'new wormer plus' and it's got Flubendazole as the main ingredient. I did some research on it and apparently other people have said it works good, it's a one-time dose, although I've heard you should do it every few months.
The reason I went with a wormer that doses the tank instead of the food is because my suvattii aren't really eating, and the Baileyi is very picky about what he eats, I thought this would be quicker, and it would be over with, instead of dragging it out.
I know that people don't always agree with the different ways that people react to problems with puffers, I just would like to think that people would respect the fact that I'm doing what I think is best for my puffers.
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
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Myaj
- Tech Team
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Re: Questions About Using Wormer
Well, you have to tell us what you are doing, we can't just guess and automatically know 
You just kept saying "the wormer" without telling us what you were using.
Flubendazole is a good dewormer, often used for puffers. Its still better to treat the food but yes, if they aren't eating, treating the water is kind of considered the last resort, though I've generally heard of treating the water with different meds than flubendazole.
Hopefully it will work at least well enough to get them eating, at which point you can focus on getting them to eat the treated food.
You just kept saying "the wormer" without telling us what you were using.Flubendazole is a good dewormer, often used for puffers. Its still better to treat the food but yes, if they aren't eating, treating the water is kind of considered the last resort, though I've generally heard of treating the water with different meds than flubendazole.
Hopefully it will work at least well enough to get them eating, at which point you can focus on getting them to eat the treated food.