So my puffie (GSP) that has been surviving since the beginning of my tank....has just passed away last night after struggling for a few days....
During the XMas period, I only did the quick "give blood worms a day" and go...didn't really deal with anything else.
Before the XMas period, my water levels were
pH - 7.9
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 15
Which is kinda normal for my tank 10gal for the 1 GSP.
This was 2 weeks ago.
I started noticing that my puffie didn't eat much food and was dwelling in dark areas of the tank. But I didn't do anything since I was running about with XMas stuff. I just checked my water a few days ago right after the New Year and found that there was something really REALLY wrong with my water.....
pH - 6.2 (HOW IN THE WORLD DOES THIS HAPPEN!?!?!?!, I checked 3 times to make sure I wasn't seeing things)
Ammonia - 0.5
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 50
I did do my usual weekly water change in the 2 week XMas period too...and was using the usual API water conditioner stuff. For the past few days I was doing 25-30% water changes to try to get the water back and finally last night the water levels were back to normal....but my puffie was too poisoned to live.
I guess I just want to know if anyone knows how the pH level could suddenly dip like that? The Ammonia is most likely from the food waste and the Nitrate is just from the food waste too. Also, my tank has been growing a lot of green/red/brown Algae too.......
What happened to the water?
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Myaj
- Tech Team
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Re: What happened to the water?
When organics build up, they actually will lower your pH. Its just one of the many reasons to do regular water changes to help keep things "stable".
Keeping a GSP in a ten gallon tank and not doing any water changes in two weeks, yet still feeding it a very meaty food, could easily raise your nitrates that high.
Keeping a GSP in a ten gallon tank and not doing any water changes in two weeks, yet still feeding it a very meaty food, could easily raise your nitrates that high.
Re: What happened to the water?
I did change the water in the two weeks, my usual 25-30% weekly water change.
My tap water has a pH around 7.6-8.2 (fluctuates from month to month).
My tap water has a pH around 7.6-8.2 (fluctuates from month to month).
- Myaj
- Tech Team
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- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
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- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: What happened to the water?
Did you have visitors over that may have been feeding the fish? Or maybe you dropped an extra big glob of worms in there..
A 10 gallon is way too small for a GSP, but in a two week period of time with a decent sized water change in there, the nitrates shouldn't have jumped that high, unless your puffer is quite large. The nitrates jumping explains the pH drop, but something triggered the nitrates. Excess food is my guess, were there any other fish or live plants in there that may have died and decayed?
A 10 gallon is way too small for a GSP, but in a two week period of time with a decent sized water change in there, the nitrates shouldn't have jumped that high, unless your puffer is quite large. The nitrates jumping explains the pH drop, but something triggered the nitrates. Excess food is my guess, were there any other fish or live plants in there that may have died and decayed?
Re: What happened to the water?
I did give my GSP a treat with some Krills but I didn't pay attention if he finished it all or not....hmmm.....that might've been it....big glob of food......
No live plants and the GSP lives alone in the tank cuz it managed to kill off my other GSP half a year ago.
Thanks for the quick responses.
No live plants and the GSP lives alone in the tank cuz it managed to kill off my other GSP half a year ago.
Thanks for the quick responses.
- Agnate
- Former Staff Member
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Re: What happened to the water?
I agree that the pH drop could be a combination of extremely soft water (low alkalinity), and the increase in waste the food. Do you vacuum the gravel when you do a water change? If not, that's likely the cause.
It's another reason why we boast large tank sizes for puffers, as larger volumes of water allow for a more stable environment, and thus less chance of problems caused by environment fluctuations.
Sorry to hear about your loss.
It's another reason why we boast large tank sizes for puffers, as larger volumes of water allow for a more stable environment, and thus less chance of problems caused by environment fluctuations.
Sorry to hear about your loss.
Did our staff successfully help you? The Puffer Forum is an incredible resource and is run completely on the donations of its viewers. Proceeds from the Puffer Forum store go towards future contests and keeping the site running. Donations may also be made via PayPal.
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
Re: What happened to the water?
Yes, I suction the gravel when I do my water changes too as I can get out the waste and some cloudy stuff from the gravel area.
I will need to let my tank settle a bit and look into maybe some other fishes.......
I will need to let my tank settle a bit and look into maybe some other fishes.......
-
MatthewLaw
- Figure 8 Puffer
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- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:29 pm
Re: What happened to the water?
since your pH is rather low to begin through the tap water, I would suggest purchasing some pH buffering agents to be added during water changes, so you keep the pH at 8.2
- Agnate
- Former Staff Member
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Re: What happened to the water?
Just do not use liquid pH buffers!MatthewLaw wrote:since your pH is rather low to begin through the tap water, I would suggest purchasing some pH buffering agents to be added during water changes, so you keep the pH at 8.2
If you wish to make your water harder and thus raise your pH, either use Crushed Coral substrate in a mesh bag (place it in your tank or filter), or purchase pieces of coral rock (it's usually white and pretty porous, about $3 CAD per pound, and comes in hand-sized chunks). Simply putting these in your tank will stabilize your pH around 7.8, and you cannot "overdose" with rocks. Using liquid pH buffers creates even MORE instability, as it requires a strict dosing regime to maintain a specific pH, as is very prone to rapid fluctuations or accidental overdosing. I only recommend liquid buffers for emergency situations, such as having to perform a freshwater dip for a saltwater fish infested with SW ich (since the pH of the freshwater should match that of the saltwater). Otherwise, stick to the natural and time-proven ways of maintaining water parameters.
Did our staff successfully help you? The Puffer Forum is an incredible resource and is run completely on the donations of its viewers. Proceeds from the Puffer Forum store go towards future contests and keeping the site running. Donations may also be made via PayPal.
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
