f8 not eating after moving
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
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- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
f8 not eating after moving
My F8 has not eaten in almost 2 1/2 weeks. I fear that he will not last much longer. I have tried live foods(ghost shrimp, black worms, brine shrimp) as well as his staple foods and his favorite(shell on shrimp), and nothing seems to be working. He ate some ghost shrimp and blackworms right after getting here, but nothing since. I have tried soaking food in garlic. I can tell he is hungry, but he just won't eat. All of the other puffers are doing fine. All of the water parameters are the same as before the cross-country move, except there are not any excess nutrients in the water here like there was in Texas. All of the algae and diatoms I had have dissapeared from my tanks. I had forgotten what color my tank decorations were. I have tested the water both at home and at my new LFS. Nitrate 10ppm, Nitrite 0ppm, Ammonia 0ppm, PH 8.2. I wonder if the changes in water nutrients may be causing a problem for him?? All of the others are doing fine and I thought it may have initially been stress, but he seems comfortable in his tank and hasn't been acting shy or withdrawn. Should I consider force-feeding him at this point? If so, what is the best way to do this? Robert, anyone? Please give me some advice, he was my first puff and I don't want to lose him.
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lisalisa
If his teeth are OK, I would try force feeding. Get a plastic syringe and fill it with some mashed up food. Catch your little guy, insert the syringe, and push a small amount into his belly. Make sure this is all done under water, and only a small amount as to not over fill him. It might be wise to add a vitamin to the food mash too.
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onebadpuffer
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- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): United States
- Location: Texas
- Contact:
You fed him with a syringe and he is eating now? I feel a sense of hope for my fish then. Shall attempt to do so later.
I'd rather be a puffer than a snail. Yes I would, if I could, I surely would...
Proud owner of: Beetroot: Fahaka, Hammie: Hairy Puffer, Fishball: Congo Puffer
RIP: Wasabi: Male irrubesco, Hamachi: Female irrubesco, Popcorn: SA puffer
Proud owner of: Beetroot: Fahaka, Hammie: Hairy Puffer, Fishball: Congo Puffer
RIP: Wasabi: Male irrubesco, Hamachi: Female irrubesco, Popcorn: SA puffer
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onebadpuffer
- Former Staff Member
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- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:34 am
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Yes I totally agree that sometimes I feel it's more stressful on the owner. Lol. Maybe our fish are in total ignorance that we're so stressed over them.onebadpuffer wrote:Yes, and good luck, Creampuff. I believe it was more stressful on me than him, lol.
I'd rather be a puffer than a snail. Yes I would, if I could, I surely would...
Proud owner of: Beetroot: Fahaka, Hammie: Hairy Puffer, Fishball: Congo Puffer
RIP: Wasabi: Male irrubesco, Hamachi: Female irrubesco, Popcorn: SA puffer
Proud owner of: Beetroot: Fahaka, Hammie: Hairy Puffer, Fishball: Congo Puffer
RIP: Wasabi: Male irrubesco, Hamachi: Female irrubesco, Popcorn: SA puffer
- puffernuke
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T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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