Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
MatthewLaw
- Figure 8 Puffer
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- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:29 pm
Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
Okay it finally happened...one of my fish (royal gramma) developed ich...boo!!
I am applying the hyposalinity method. Do I need to raise the temperature to 86 degrees too OR just apply this low-SG method?
I am applying the hyposalinity method. Do I need to raise the temperature to 86 degrees too OR just apply this low-SG method?
- plurmaster
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
-Jase
edmlfc1 wrote:A house without a puffer is not a home.![]()
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MatthewLaw
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
I have done the following but no temperature requirements were provided.
"The parasite requires saltwater conditions to survive, therefore, by lowering the salinity the parasites will die off. This is called hyposalinity, and requires obtaining a Specific Gravity of 1.009 (measured with a refractometer or hydrometer at least daily) for a minimum of 4 weeks.
The tank needs to be bare bottom (no substrate) with hiding spots for the fish. Hiding spots should be things that can be sterilized after each use - pvc pipe/couplings or those plastic caves/decorations used in freshwater tanks.
There should be some source of biological filtration. I prefer air driven sponge filters that can be cycled or maintained in your display system’s sump or a sponge or bioballs in a hang-on-back filter. Both of these can be quickly removed from the display system and added to the quarantine tank when needed.
Additional aeration (air stone or power head pointed from the bottom of the tank to surface) will also be needed to meet the fishes increased demand for oxygen. "
"The parasite requires saltwater conditions to survive, therefore, by lowering the salinity the parasites will die off. This is called hyposalinity, and requires obtaining a Specific Gravity of 1.009 (measured with a refractometer or hydrometer at least daily) for a minimum of 4 weeks.
The tank needs to be bare bottom (no substrate) with hiding spots for the fish. Hiding spots should be things that can be sterilized after each use - pvc pipe/couplings or those plastic caves/decorations used in freshwater tanks.
There should be some source of biological filtration. I prefer air driven sponge filters that can be cycled or maintained in your display system’s sump or a sponge or bioballs in a hang-on-back filter. Both of these can be quickly removed from the display system and added to the quarantine tank when needed.
Additional aeration (air stone or power head pointed from the bottom of the tank to surface) will also be needed to meet the fishes increased demand for oxygen. "
- plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
I have sucessfully cured ichs on my puffers 100% everytime. I turn the heat up to 90,add aquarium salt in the hospital tank. Already have a filter inside but i add additon air pump because lack of oxygen if the tank temperature is high for about 2-3 weeks. Also 75% wc every other day but again this is for my puffers only and it works for me. Not sure this method works for other fish while some fish cannot tolerate heat like this.

- The Bruce
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
I don't raise the temp at all for marine ich, my reef tank always stays around 78-80 degree's so the parasites life cycle is already fast, plus it's already harder for oxygen to dissolve in saltwater so taking the temp up higher than 80 would make it even more difficult for oxygen exchange, taking the heat up to 90F in IMO would further stress an already stressed animal
plurmaster: the treatment your using is for Ichthyophthirius multifilis(freshwater ich). He is dealing with Cryptocaryon irritans(saltwater ich)
plurmaster: the treatment your using is for Ichthyophthirius multifilis(freshwater ich). He is dealing with Cryptocaryon irritans(saltwater ich)
Last edited by The Bruce on Fri Nov 21, 2008 5:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- plurmaster
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- The Bruce
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
oops, just beat you plurmaster
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
freshwater ich and saltwater ich are two totally different things, and need differentt treatments. 
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
Matthew, you know you need to treat every fish in the tank in a QT, right? Do not do hypo in your main tank. Part 2 of treatment is to leave the main tank fallow for 8 weeks so the parasite dies off w/o a host.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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MatthewLaw
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
Pufferpunk- all treatment for the fish are being performed in the quarantine tank.
did your fish become lethargic due to the hyposalinity method? my royal gramma is just hanging out and no where near as active (SG is 1.010).
ADDITION/EDIT: The RG is now swimming around....phew....maybe he is more a night fish...haha
did your fish become lethargic due to the hyposalinity method? my royal gramma is just hanging out and no where near as active (SG is 1.010).
ADDITION/EDIT: The RG is now swimming around....phew....maybe he is more a night fish...haha
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
He's also probably not used to the difference in salinity, either. Salt makes the water more buoyant, so he's also probably feeling a little heavier. 
You need to get your SG to *exactly* 1.009 SG (which is why we recommend a refractometer over a hydrometer for this treatment method). Also, if you don't have a refractometer, now's a great time to get one (and trust me, they're a thousand times nicer than a hydrometer).
Keep us posted on situation.
You need to get your SG to *exactly* 1.009 SG (which is why we recommend a refractometer over a hydrometer for this treatment method). Also, if you don't have a refractometer, now's a great time to get one (and trust me, they're a thousand times nicer than a hydrometer).
Keep us posted on situation.
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
yeah i found a refractometer for 50 bucks and it has worked great for 4 years now, instead of sticking a big plastic thing in your tank you just put a little pipette full of tank water on the window and bam you got the salinity, get one
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Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
Be sure to calibrate it regurlarly.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
MatthewLaw
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:29 pm
Re: Ich Issue...Read the Hospital Section Need Clarification
thanks for the help everyone...the RG is doing well...