any 1 no a good IP treatment for FW puffers
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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dmill82
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:45 pm
- My Puffers: 4 SAPs and a fahaka puffer
any 1 no a good IP treatment for FW puffers
any 1 no a good IP treatment fow FW puffers?
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marksrush
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 856
- Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:10 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: One GSP.
- Location (country): USA
- Location: Raymore, Missouri USA
Re: any 1 no a good IP treatment for FW puffers
Jungle Labs makes a product called Parasite Clear that all the gurus seem to recommend. Petsmart has it, and another Jungle product called Internal Parasite Guard. Or basically anything that contains metronidazole and praziquantel, or even levamisole hydrochloride if you can figure out how to get some.
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crazedpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1755
- Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:57 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Porcupine Puffer
1xValentini - Location: Long Island, NY
Re: any 1 no a good IP treatment for FW puffers
See if you can get praziquantel, otherwise Gel-Tek for IP works good (just make sure to soak the food in it for like half an hour first)
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dmill82
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:45 pm
- My Puffers: 4 SAPs and a fahaka puffer
Re: any 1 no a good IP treatment for FW puffers
has any 1 herd off this and weather it is any good as its pretty much the only 1 i can find in the uk.
OCTOZIN - flagellated protozoacide.
OCTOZIN is a treatment for internal parasites such as those which cause Sleeping Sickness, Hole - In - The - Head, Seawater Angelfish and Clownfish Disease, Malawi Bloat Disease and also early stages of Dropsy. OCTOZIN may also be used to treat Whitespot in seawater aquaria where CUPRAZIN cannot be used. OCTOZIN is harmless to invertebrates and algae when used as directed. You will require three separate days of treatment to complete the course.
OCTOZIN is active for up to 3 days after the last day of use. Although internal parasites are destroyed instantly, external signs of improvement to the fish may take up to 7 days
OCTOZIN - flagellated protozoacide.
OCTOZIN is a treatment for internal parasites such as those which cause Sleeping Sickness, Hole - In - The - Head, Seawater Angelfish and Clownfish Disease, Malawi Bloat Disease and also early stages of Dropsy. OCTOZIN may also be used to treat Whitespot in seawater aquaria where CUPRAZIN cannot be used. OCTOZIN is harmless to invertebrates and algae when used as directed. You will require three separate days of treatment to complete the course.
OCTOZIN is active for up to 3 days after the last day of use. Although internal parasites are destroyed instantly, external signs of improvement to the fish may take up to 7 days