HELP HELP HELP
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
HELP HELP HELP
Ok I'll try and keep this short.
I am a teacher and a family donated an entire aquarium setup to me for my classroom.
Set up tank and wanted to take my time getting water set up etc.
They were in a hurry and brought the fish in waaaaaay to soon.
Our only savior..hopefully...is that he brought with him all the established bio balls so we hopefully have a head start on bacteria growth.
One of the fish was a puffer...porcupine I am pretty sure. The other fish are a trigger and 4 clown fish as well as three hermit crabs. needless to say the puffer has become a rock star on campus within a week...
BUT...
The puffer is not eating!!
My water temp is about 78, salinity is about 1.018-1.021.. the ammonia levels have stayed pretty constant...the Nitrites are climbing (obviously)...the nitrates are starting to go up too.
I have tried clams, feeder fish, the seafood cocktail stuff from safeway, the only thing he even took a bite at was the clams and that was once and never has since.
The tail fin also appears to be ruffling on the edges and it is bending almost all the time. He spends a lot of time resting on things but does swim around near the top in spurts.
I know I am fighting a big uphill battle here and really did not want the fish in the tank yet at all but hopefully one of you experts can give me advice to save my puffer.
Thanks
I am a teacher and a family donated an entire aquarium setup to me for my classroom.
Set up tank and wanted to take my time getting water set up etc.
They were in a hurry and brought the fish in waaaaaay to soon.
Our only savior..hopefully...is that he brought with him all the established bio balls so we hopefully have a head start on bacteria growth.
One of the fish was a puffer...porcupine I am pretty sure. The other fish are a trigger and 4 clown fish as well as three hermit crabs. needless to say the puffer has become a rock star on campus within a week...
BUT...
The puffer is not eating!!
My water temp is about 78, salinity is about 1.018-1.021.. the ammonia levels have stayed pretty constant...the Nitrites are climbing (obviously)...the nitrates are starting to go up too.
I have tried clams, feeder fish, the seafood cocktail stuff from safeway, the only thing he even took a bite at was the clams and that was once and never has since.
The tail fin also appears to be ruffling on the edges and it is bending almost all the time. He spends a lot of time resting on things but does swim around near the top in spurts.
I know I am fighting a big uphill battle here and really did not want the fish in the tank yet at all but hopefully one of you experts can give me advice to save my puffer.
Thanks
-
pufferfreak
- Mbu Puffer
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
Your salinity needs to be between 1.020 - 1.023 at least thats what i recomend. how big is the tank?
-
crazedpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1755
- Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:57 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Porcupine Puffer
1xValentini - Location: Long Island, NY
Re: HELP HELP HELP
What was the family feeding previously?
Try live earthworms, that (along with vegetables) are my porcs favorites.
Also what size tank is it? Chances are it's not big enough, for you will need at least 90 for the porc alone.
Can you post the exact perams also? It'd be best to do daily water changes until you cna get the ammonia and nitrite at zero. See if you can get bio-spira to instant cycle the tank, or Prime to help detoxify the ammonia and nitrite.
Try live earthworms, that (along with vegetables) are my porcs favorites.
Also what size tank is it? Chances are it's not big enough, for you will need at least 90 for the porc alone.
Can you post the exact perams also? It'd be best to do daily water changes until you cna get the ammonia and nitrite at zero. See if you can get bio-spira to instant cycle the tank, or Prime to help detoxify the ammonia and nitrite.
- Agnate
- Former Staff Member
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1 Abei Puffer [Monotrete Abei]
(Captain Abe) - Location: Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
Re: HELP HELP HELP
Also, in addition to giving us the tank info and water parameters, how large is the Porc, how large are the other fish, and can you see any visible signs of disease on the Porc? Porc puffers have an extremely high occurrence of saltwater ich, as well as the possibility for internal parasites (both of which could be sparking this lack of eating). Does he looked emaciated, or does his stomach look sunken? How strong is he swimming? If you could get pictures for us, it might help us diagnose him if he has some visible symptoms.
I've heard that Porcs initially go for moving/live things (mostly crustaceans and invertebrates), so try to find some Ghost Shrimp (also called Glass shrimp or River shrimp - they're completely clear and about 1-2 inches large). Those might be your best bet. You can also try to soak the other foods in garlic (just mash up a clove and let it soak in a dish with the food, using water from the tank of course).
I've heard that Porcs initially go for moving/live things (mostly crustaceans and invertebrates), so try to find some Ghost Shrimp (also called Glass shrimp or River shrimp - they're completely clear and about 1-2 inches large). Those might be your best bet. You can also try to soak the other foods in garlic (just mash up a clove and let it soak in a dish with the food, using water from the tank of course).
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- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Paul
40 gallon - Future home of Abei Puffer
28 gallon - 1 Abei Puffer (Captain Abe)
5 gallon - 1 Betta (Frederico)
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
Yes, we really need to know the water parameters, ASAP. ANY amount of ammonia/nitrite will cause the puffer to be uncomfortable enough not to eat. They can go quite some time without eating, so I wouldn't worry much about that. Uneaten food will just add to the messed up biology of that tank.
Is there any live rock that came with the tank?
What is the filtration?
How large is the tank & fish?
Large daily water changes are in order here, to prevent the fish from being poisoned by their own wastes, until you can get a hold of some Bio-Spira but if there isn't proper filtration (IE: live rock, protein skimmer), you'll still be doing large water changes indefinately, with the amout of bioload a porc & trigger puts out.
Is there any live rock that came with the tank?
What is the filtration?
How large is the tank & fish?
Large daily water changes are in order here, to prevent the fish from being poisoned by their own wastes, until you can get a hold of some Bio-Spira but if there isn't proper filtration (IE: live rock, protein skimmer), you'll still be doing large water changes indefinately, with the amout of bioload a porc & trigger puts out.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: HELP HELP HELP
Its a 55 gallon tank..sump filtration though his established bio balls without a skimmer. I did put in live sand at the beginning but no live rock
The porc is pretty good size. Definitely bigger than ones I have seen in the stores. The trigger is also good size and I think is the dominator of the tank...takes food very aggressively and is obviously quicker to the meal than the puffer.
The only visible thing I have seen is the tail fin curling and turn a bit cloudy of a color and "fraying" at the edge.
I would say a definite yes on the stomach looking emaciated. Swimming is strong but sporadic...spends a lot of time on the bottom of tank or resting on coral.
Thanks again for all the help.
The porc is pretty good size. Definitely bigger than ones I have seen in the stores. The trigger is also good size and I think is the dominator of the tank...takes food very aggressively and is obviously quicker to the meal than the puffer.
The only visible thing I have seen is the tail fin curling and turn a bit cloudy of a color and "fraying" at the edge.
I would say a definite yes on the stomach looking emaciated. Swimming is strong but sporadic...spends a lot of time on the bottom of tank or resting on coral.
Thanks again for all the help.
Last edited by shrtstop on Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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T miurus
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C lorteti
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
How large is the tank? It sounds like the puffer is getting fin rot from poor water conditions.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: HELP HELP HELP
Sorry i edited the last post 55 gallon tank
also what is Bio-Spira?? sorry I am new to all of this
also what is Bio-Spira?? sorry I am new to all of this
- Pufferpunk
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suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
How long are the fish in your estimation? Were these recently purchased? Can they be returned?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: HELP HELP HELP
trigger and puffer about the same length...4-5inches???
They had been in a different tank than mine for over a year together and so I don't think returning will be an option...may be able to talk the local shop into taking the sick puffer though maybe.
They had been in a different tank than mine for over a year together and so I don't think returning will be an option...may be able to talk the local shop into taking the sick puffer though maybe.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
Both the puffer & the trigger will quickly outgrow a 55g tank. My suggestion is to give them to a store that can sell them to someone who can house them properly & that way they won't die in your uncycled tank. Then you can read up on cycling a SW tank & take your time adding fish. If you want a puffer (or puffers) in there, stick with the smaller, snarp-nosed tobies.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: HELP HELP HELP
Thanks..I will try and look into that...until then Ill have to keep up the water changes I guess.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32987
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
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T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: HELP HELP HELP
Don't wait too long or they won't be in any condition for a shop to take them.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- t1gerbee
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
can you get hold of a skimmer? or loads of live rock? Best way now to stop your tank parameters crashing..
alternatively research locally and get someone in who is a SW keeper to help you with the set up/correct running... one of the kids at your school must have a mum or dad who keeps them.... they might be able to lend you some of the kit needed...
however as said, both porc and trigger will outgrow the tank fast, so long term they need to be upgraded or re-homed. Good luck
alternatively research locally and get someone in who is a SW keeper to help you with the set up/correct running... one of the kids at your school must have a mum or dad who keeps them.... they might be able to lend you some of the kit needed...
however as said, both porc and trigger will outgrow the tank fast, so long term they need to be upgraded or re-homed. Good luck
1 x 90G Juv stars and stripes puffer, Ceylon Puffer + GSP + 2 black clowns
1 x 30G LPS Reef
1 x 30G 1 x Blind goldfish

1 x 30G LPS Reef
1 x 30G 1 x Blind goldfish

-
pufferfreak
- Mbu Puffer
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Re: HELP HELP HELP
what kind of trigger is it?