Chemicals(plant fertalizers) + Puffers = ???

[Tihsho]

I know puffers are very sensative to water condition and quality. Just wondering if there are any plant fertalizers that affect puffers?

[Bred]

My fahaka does not getting a face full of 10mL trace elements so I try to distract him when I dose. But generally I'd say there's no issue with ferts and puffs.

[Tihsho]

Ok thats good. Cause I want some larger plants in the tank for the puffers to find refuge so they dont get picked on too much by eachother. Larger plants = cut views for them!

[Myaj]

I use Yamato Green fertilizer and Flourish Excel CO2 suppliment in my dwarf/SAP tank and never noticed any problems. But I try to squirt them into the filter box, not into the tank where one of the puffs might swim over to see what I'm doing and get a faceful of refridgerated fertilizer.

[Tihsho]

Ok, should I use a liquid CO2 product over a CO2 (gas) delivery system?

[RTR]

I use the whole Seachem line , well, I exaggerate a bit. I use Flourish, Fl.Nitrogen, Fl. Phosphate, Fl. Potassium, Fl. Iron, and Fl. Excel - regularly and routinely. Plus Seachem's Reef Iodide. No issue to date.

Puffers are not very pH sensitive, TDS and the mineral profile counts much more than the pH.

[Tihsho]

TDS?

[Bred]

Total Dissolved Solids
see the Common Acronym & Abbreviations sticky in General Discussion for all the secrets!

[Tihsho]

Thanks that will help a bit. I didnt even know that was on this site!

[Myaj]

As far as CO2, that is up to you. It will mainly depend on your lighting, the type of plants you want to grow, and the size of your tank. Oh, also your pH and hardness as well comes into play.

Basically, if you start to go over 2.5 watts per gallon, you pretty much need CO2. For under that much light, you don't necessarily need it, but the plants will usually appreciate it. But if you use too much, you can harm the fish, since at night, plants stop producing oxygen and the fish can run out of oxygen and get too much CO2. The breaking point of how much is too much will depend on your pH and hardness, etc, the lower they are, the more suseptable they will be to crashes and the easier it will be for your CO2 levels to rise too high during dark periods. You can get around the CO2 level thing at night by turning on an airstone, but its best to set it on a timer so it turns on when the lights turn off, otherwise, if you forget...

I don't recommend injectable CO2 (diy or pressurized) in tanks smaller than 20 gallons or so, simply because it can be hard to control. I used DIY bottles for years, but just couldn't get in the habit of refilling them. So, since all my tanks are smaller tanks, I started using Excel. The plants really perked up, and I do manage to remember to add it every other day. Excel really only works for tanks under 55 gallons though, same for DIY CO2, anything larger will either cost a ton to use Excel, need several DIY bottles or the best bet would be pressurized.

Here's a link to making your own DIY system. I've used this, but you have to remember to remix it every week or so to keep levels steady and stable:

http://hometown.aol.com/yamatoaquariums/co2.html

[RTR]

There are some folks crazy enough to use Excel in things like 300 gallon central systems (which have to much current and surface disruption for CO2), and a couple of 70-ish tank/sump systems. In the 4 L bottles it is not too bad.

[Tihsho]

I have plenty of those 'stick-in-tank' co2 systems. Some of them are waiting for a home and or just to be opened. Now I know it's ok with the puffs ill go ahead and use em. Hopefully they dont take in a mouthful of co2, don't want to find carbonated puffs!