Maybe Going to Brackish...Need Some Help

[MatthewLaw]

I had posted in the Brackish Tank section but maybe it would do better here since I am focusing on a specific puffer?

Greetings All- I am thinking about turning my 15g FW into a brackish tank for one (1) F8; dont have him just thinking...... The 15g is fully cycled and has a few tiger barbs in it.

1. From your experience, can the tiger barbs survive in low-end brackish?

2. Will the F8 be aggressive enough to keep some of these TBs in check? I origianlly had the TBs in my 60g tank but they were too aggressive with my SAPs.

3. Do you recommend doing 20% water changes weekly like I do with my FW tanks? From reading other posts this looks like a good idea and to frequently monitor salt content.

4. Will a Biowheel 150 (good for 30g tanks) be able to handle brackish water? From experience does this type of filter work well in Brackish tanks? I am coming to the conclusion that going brackish (even low-end) really reeks havoc on these filters.

Thanks!! -Matt

[Agnate]

1. From your experience, can the tiger barbs survive in low-end brackish?

Honestly, I don't know, but you shouldn't have other fish with your F8 if it's only a 15 gallon tank (with the exception of a couple Bumblebee Gobies, as they don't produce too much waste).

2. Will the F8 be aggressive enough to keep some of these TBs in check? I origianlly had the TBs in my 60g tank but they were too aggressive with my SAPs.

(See above)

3. Do you recommend doing 20% water changes weekly like I do with my FW tanks? From reading other posts this looks like a good idea and to frequently monitor salt content.

Yes. Water changes are highly recommended. Monitoring your salt content is also important, as you mentioned.

4. Will a Biowheel 150 (good for 30g tanks) be able to handle brackish water? From experience does this type of filter work well in Brackish tanks? I am coming to the conclusion that going brackish (even low-end) really reeks havoc on these filters.

On the contrary, the bio-wheel reeks havoc on your brackish aquarium. Bio-wheels work perfectly fine for brackish tanks, but the problem arises because the rotating wheel can cause a large amount of salt creep. Salt creep is when salty water is splashed onto a surface, evaporates, and leaves behind all the salt that was in that water. Bio-wheels create a lot of "spray", which results in a large build-up of salt on the outside of your tank (usually on the lid).

Other than the salt creep, though, bio wheels work very well for brackish tanks.

[Pufferpunk]

TBs aren't BW fish.

[MatthewLaw]

Thanks for the help. I was not sure about TBs in brackish since molly's can adapt and survive well in brackish. i have been reading online that TBs can tolerate brackish and in other situations, it isn't good for them.

if i clean off the tank and discharge area regularly, then the biowheel issue shouldn't well, be an issue, right?

Thanks again!! -Matt

[Agnate]

Nope, won't be an issue at all.

[MatthewLaw]

Thanks again.

What type of instrument do you persaonlly use to measure salinty level? Some have recommended hydrometer and/or refractometer?

[Pufferpunk]

Thanks for the help. I was not sure about TBs in brackish since molly's can adapt and survive well in brackish. i have been reading online that TBs can tolerate brackish and in other situations, it isn't good for them.

That's because mollies are really BW fish Tolerating & thriving in certain water are 2 difernt things.

[Agnate]

What type of instrument do you persaonlly use to measure salinty level?

I recommend a refractometer over a hydrometer, as you get a more accurate reading. Hydrometers usually cost you about $15-20, and a refractometer runs for about $45-60.

[MatthewLaw]

Thanks for the help.