Advise on eliminating Blue Green Algae/Bacteria from DP Tank

[Rouge]

Hi...I need some good advise on eliminating this bacteria from my tank. I have read one article. My fish store told me to use E.M.Erythromycin, 1/2 strength mixed in 1 gallon of DP's tank water and slowly pour into the tank. Just prior to this treatment they advised me to gently scrape the top layer of substrate from the tank (with the green bacteria on it) as to eliminate as much of the bacteria as possible in the hopes of having to treat the water only once to reduce the trauma on my DP's.

My tank parameters: 15 gallon long, Aqua-Clear Power filter for 15-20 gallon tank.
2 Dwarf Puffers, 2 small cat fish (I have had the DP's for 8 months)
Nitrates: 5; Nitrites: 0; Ammonia: 0; ph: 7.6; general hardness 120; carbonate hardness: 200.
Our water is very hard, the tank water consists of 1/3 filtered tap water, 2/3 reverse osmosis water. We change the water weekly with a 20-25% water change. We have live plants but have recently removed all the java moss because it seemed to be a real breeding area for this bacteria. Our tank has been pristine clean and clear since the beginning and we have followed a wonderful regime on filtering written by Puffer Punk quite some time ago. We are perplexed as to how this bacteria began. Once it began, it really took off!

I am very hesitant as to how to treat as not to harm my two little DP's as just one year ago I lost my precious Anthron Reticularis "Puffy".

The article I read suggests that on the 3rd day of treatment to add a second mechanical filter to increase filtration and removal of dead blue green bacteria.

I am most interested in seasoned advice from someone experienced in this area.

Many Many Thanks!

[jimi]

your sure its a bacteria and not algae and if its algae wouldnt it be best left ( its a good thing but looks bad or good depending on who you are )

[yunachin]

Sometimes old lights can encourage cyanobacteria growth. How long have you had the lights? Have you tried blacking the tank out for 2-3 days?

[Rouge]

Thank you Jimi and Vunchin for your interest and comments. (I am not very internet savy...I cannot figure out how to post individual replies to each of you at this time )

A good friend and owner of the fish store I utilize is the one who told me to use E.M. Erythromycin 1/2 strength. He said if I did not, eventually this algae would increase enough to produce toxins that will kill the fish in the tank. You can imagine my concern with my tiny DP's.

A friend went to a website called: myfishtank.net and found one article on blue green algae. They said the following:
Blue Green Algae is actually not an algae but a bacteria, a "cynobacteria".

Erythromyocin is an anti-biotic effective in killing "bacteria" yet safe to fish, animals and plants.

They do a treatment for two days, each day adding 2.5 mg/L (My friend and fish store owner said to reduce
this dose to 1/2 [1.2mg/L] because of the size of the DP's.

They advised not to turn the lights off because when you turn the lights back on the algae/bacteria will
rapidly increase.

He also said his practical experience was somewhat limited to his own tanks and some of his friends. He said
this phenomena whould occur in about every other fresh tank he set up. My tank is so small relatively speaking.
Should you care to look at it, the author of this article is Ron Reisdorf.

If you have any other comments I would certainly like to see them. Thank you so much!

[taureandragon76]

have known of a few people that have treated bga with EM and had no problems. Just get some carbon in the filter after you medicate so you can remove it from the water column

[J double R]

Thank you Jimi and Vunchin for your interest and comments. (I am not very internet savy...I cannot figure out how to post individual replies to each of you at this time )

A good friend and owner of the fish store I utilize is the one who told me to use E.M. Erythromycin 1/2 strength. He said if I did not, eventually this algae would increase enough to produce toxins that will kill the fish in the tank. You can imagine my concern with my tiny DP's.

A friend went to a website called: myfishtank.net and found one article on blue green algae. They said the following:
Blue Green Algae is actually not an algae but a bacteria, a "cynobacteria".

Erythromyocin is an anti-biotic effective in killing "bacteria" yet safe to fish, animals and plants.

They do a treatment for two days, each day adding 2.5 mg/L (My friend and fish store owner said to reduce
this dose to 1/2 [1.2mg/L] because of the size of the DP's.

They advised not to turn the lights off because when you turn the lights back on the algae/bacteria will
rapidly increase.

He also said his practical experience was somewhat limited to his own tanks and some of his friends. He said
this phenomena whould occur in about every other fresh tank he set up. My tank is so small relatively speaking.
Should you care to look at it, the author of this article is Ron Reisdorf.

If you have any other comments I would certainly like to see them. Thank you so much!

that is right... but in the case of a proper blackout (which involves removing as much visible cyano as possible, and then COMPLETELY blacking out the tank (blankets, black bags, whatever you have to do so ZERO light gets in) it will work.

[Jay.B.]

just a thought... if you're going to be using an antibiotic, won't it screw your cycle?? it's bacteria based...

[J double R]

that is also another concern with using EM, as it can and will mess with the nitrogen cycle, and in large doses, can eliminate it completely.

[yunachin]

Yeah, I would definitely want to do anything without chemicals at first.

[Jay.B.]

excess lighting and nitrates are usually the biggest culprits for any unwanted growths, so as good a place as any to start...

[J double R]

another thing that can spur the growth is LOW nitrates.. i know it sounds odd, but a lot of people that have crazy planted tanks that use up all the nitrates (or have unstable nitrate levels) get cyano problems.

[Jay.B.]

LOW nitrates... Hmm... that could mean an imbalance elsewhere... maybe freshwater phosphates go up with low nitrates, I dunno, just a thought... phosphates are rarely thought about with regard to freshwater aquaria...

[J double R]

and phosphates are a big proponent of green water breakouts..

[yunachin]

Cyanobacteria have chlorophyll a and carotenoids in addition to some unusual accessory pigments named phycobilins. The blue pigment, phycocyanin and the red one, phycoerythrin, absorb wavelengths of light for photosynthesis that are missed by chlorophyll and the carotenoids. In biochemical detail, Cyanobacteria are especially similar to the chloroplasts of red algae (Rhodophyta). Cyanobacteria prefer a neutral to alkaline pH (6.5 to 9) and will not grow in an acidic environment. Relative to other oxygenic phototrophs, Cyanobacteria often grow under fairly extreme environmental conditions such as high temperature and salinity, and will even form 3 inch thick mats below an ice layer in the arctic. Cyanobacteria also appear to prefer waters that have higher levels of phosphorus than ammonia, since they can "fix atmospheric nitrogen" into water-soluble ammonia-nitrogen, whenever nitrogen becomes limited in the environment.

Eliminating this problem in my experience has always been to test the Ph, replace any old bulbs, and do a complete tank black out for at least three days. That usually nips the problem right in the bud.

[Rouge]

Thank you dear Advisors !!!

That is exactly what I am going to do - - - a complete blackout for three days. You do not think it is going to hurt the little DP'S??? Can I turn their light on just to feed them (a 3 minute process once a day).

Thank, Thank you soooo much!!