Addatives or More Water Changes or ???

[SeeingGreen]

I have two sponge filters running, and a 30 gallon hang on back which runs 200 gph by the box.

I have my 2 juv. green spot puffers in there, and the levels are 0 am, 0 rite, and ~40 maybe a hair over on nitrate( I have a tough time with the color charts but that appears correct.

The problem I face is that its farm season around here, and i tested the tap water after seeing results so high. Local tap is coming in above 20 ppm. (again just a hair over t my eyes.)

I can do more water changes, but i feel like that isn't really curbing the problem because of how much I am adding.

Is there anything I can do to have my filter possibly take more out? I don't want my little guys to be in pain, but i don't know where to go from here.

They don't seem unhappy, but they don't have the color that Bonzo had in the may puff of the month contest.They are green but darkish green instead of the fluorescent color many so proudly display.

Like I said they are eating, and acting normally, but I am worrying before something happens.

I appreciate any suggestions you can give me.

[Nick]

In your case, it's probably reasonable to use a nitrate absorbing resin in the tank to keep the levels lower. Just make sure you do your weekly 50% water changes no matter what your nitrates read, as other dissolved organics, which can't be measured by a test kit, will still build up in the water.

[Pufferpunk]

This may sound a little nuts but adding vitamin c irradicates nitrate. I had a tank with nitrate over 100 at the end of every week, even though I would do an 80% WC at the beginning of every week. I add 1/4tsp (1112mg) of pure, buffered sodium ascorbate to the 15g tank & even after 3 weeks w/o WC, the nitrate remains <10 (this is a SW tank).

[Nick]

Do you suppose vitamin C is a needed nutrient for denitryfying bacteria? I really should look into Vit. C for Shakespeare's tank.

[Jay.B.]

In your case, it's probably reasonable to use a nitrate absorbing resin in the tank to keep the levels lower. Just make sure you do your weekly 50% water changes no matter what your nitrates read, as other dissolved organics, which can't be measured by a test kit, will still build up in the water.

on the vitamin C thing... we have buckets full of pharmaceutical grade crystalline ascorbic acid at work, which is supposed to be one of the purest forms of vitamin C (or so I have been told) and I know it seems daft to be adding something acidic to a tank where your trying to keep the pH alkaline, but... would this also be suitable? just wanting to check from a fishy point of view, as the chemists view is "yeah it'll be fine, no problem" LOL

but they don't have the color that Bonzo had in the may puff of the month contest.

thank you very much

the "in tap" nitrates where I live are minimal, barely a reading at all, and the highest I have seen them is 5, I do a 25% water change weekly, I also leave the brown algae on my rocks and on the back of the tank, as any plant life that can cope with your water will go a little way to reducing nitrate levels also, as they use it for food.

if your tap nitrates are only high during the farming season, would it possibly be worth your while using RO water during this time, and switching back to tap out of season? just a thought

[SeeingGreen]

Thanks for the replies. I have Amquel, which is a tank additive that says it removes a ton of things all at once. Pufferpunk, you suggested vit C. How often would that be added, and where did you find it? Also, you said that that was in a marine tank, mine is brackish (about 1.008-1.01) any thoughts if it will work out the same?

My substrate is just gravel, with small pretty stones piled on it in the middle, and decor scattered throughout, and bigger rocks in the rock pile forming a couple caves. Would putting live sand in there work for me, I assume it has to me allot higher SG than mine currently is, but I wanted to check. Also would I be best of to just pull the gravel/crushed coral that I have not completely, and put in sand instead?

I know that adding light will add to algae growth, which is desirable? Right now I don't have a light on the tank, could that be contributing to why i don't see the color I am wanting?

Sorry for being so ... newbish, but I just worry....

[bazil323]

I'm also interested in the answer to this. I've posted a question a few weeks ago about nitrate removing filter media, but I haven't gotten a satisfying answer. My water seems to read 20+ nitrates all the time, and I'd like to know if there is a product that is really good at removing nitrates that doesn't have to be replaced all the time.

[Pufferpunk]

Yes, nitrifying bacteria seems to love VC. I purchase pure, buffered VC from here: http://www.iherb.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 7697039798
$5 off coupon code: FOR500

Start dosing 1/4 tsp & raise it to 1/2 after 3 days. Wait for a week to check the nitrate & adjust dosage accordingly. If you don't have a sump, dissolve in a cup of water, before pouring into your filter.

This stuff does wolders for corals! We think it helps with collagen production, which is what all our corals are made of. My next article will be on using VC in tanks.

[SeeingGreen]

So is this a vitamin supplement for people, or is it for use in tanks? It appears to be for people, and in dosage, is it dosed daily?

[Pufferpunk]

If you're speaking of multi-vitamins, don't use them--use a liquid fish vitamin suppliment & soak their food in it. I only use pure, buffered vitamin c in my tanks.

Although I have started a thread on this months ago, here again info on the wonders VC can do for your aquarium:
http://www.livingreefs.com/forums/misce ... min-c.html
I have updated the dosing chart in that article, so disregard that part.