fahaka is still sick
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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imaninja11
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:37 pm
fahaka is still sick
on guys i moved my fahaka to a 30gallon long and he swimming more but he still wont eat his shrimp and he started to develop some white filmish looking stuff on his right eye, i've put pimafix and melafix just in case. Can anyone tell me what to feed him besides shrimp and krill cause I heard the krill gives puffers lock jaw. I think he might have lock jaw also because his mouth is open a lot, but he still tries to bite his food but his coordination is off and once he does bite his food he always spits it out.I'LL TRY TO GET A PICTURE, IF ALL ELSE FAILS I WILL PUT MY PUFFER TO SLEEP.
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
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Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
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Re: fahaka is still sick
First: There is no reason to put a starving fish to sleep. Once the hunger pains portion is over, which is less than a month typically and generally takes place long before the decision to euthanize becomes necessary, there is no more discomfort for the fish, and it's death will be peaceful if you just maintain good water conditions and let him go on his own.
Try an earthworm. Most puffers LOVE earthworms, and even the most reluctant to eat will often take them. Just make sure they've never been exposed to fertilizers or pesticides.
Try an earthworm. Most puffers LOVE earthworms, and even the most reluctant to eat will often take them. Just make sure they've never been exposed to fertilizers or pesticides.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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crazedpuffer
- Former Staff Member
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1xValentini - Location: Long Island, NY
Re: fahaka is still sick
How big is he? I think an upgrade to a 120 tank would help a ton.
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manutius
- Former Staff Member
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Re: fahaka is still sick
I think I agree with Rocco, Its highly likely that the 30G is not giving him enough oxygen and his wastes are building up too quickly.
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imaninja11
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:37 pm
Re: fahaka is still sick
i doubt the waters dirty cuz i do 2 50% water changes a week, a turbo twist uv and a new fluval x4 running on the 30 gallon long. i'll try to get the 240 set up but i dont have sand, cover or lights though. also i doubt he'll make it cuz i think he has lock jaw, mouth always open even when i trimmed teeth.
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manutius
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:49 pm
- My Puffers: RIP Clooney the Mbu :(
- Location: Southend essex, UK
- Contact:
Re: fahaka is still sick
It doesn't sound right at all I admit but I don't think its necessary to euthanise. You can buy children playsand as a very cheap and safe substrate and use a regular light bulb rather than an aquatic brand. A larger dark tank would be better IMO. What are your water perameters please?
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Re: fahaka is still sick
I believe this fish is still under 2", so not sure he's using up all the o2 in a 30 gallon...
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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manutius
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:49 pm
- My Puffers: RIP Clooney the Mbu :(
- Location: Southend essex, UK
- Contact:
Re: fahaka is still sick
aaah I see, maybe its a waste issue then