I have a 150 gallon tank - been up and running for about 3 years now - all levels are good pH 8.4 - ammonia 0 natrite - 0 nitrate 10ppm (hard to keep that one down) - salinity a little low from the last cycle - which was on Saturday - it is 1.022 - I keep it about 1.023 - I cycle about 15 gallons - this tank has been going good for a long time - I've had my puffer for about 2 years - and all of a sudden tonight when I got home i noticed right away he was on the bottom of the tank his eyes glazed over milky white - and gasping for each breath - I tried to research as much as I could but within 45 mins of me being home he died - When I removed him from the tank he was REAL slimy. I have know idea what killed him and so fast - last night he was just fine - doing his normal excited swimming around and staring at me while I work on the computer -(my tank is next to my computer at home) - I am just trying to understand what could have happened - About 2 weeks ago I introduced a new fish into the tank - a yellow tang - but i havent seen any aggression at all - my puffer is my main display fish - other than him all I have in the tank is 2 blue damsyls a trigger and thats it! - all the other fish have been there for about a year - No other fish are showing any signs of stress -
If you have any ideas of what might have happend - please let me know - I'm rather sad by the loss of E.T.(you can guess why he got that name)
My Puffer just died!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Happy_Puffer
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Re: My Puffer just died!
I'm so sorry to hear that I know I just lost 2 f8s in the last week for reason I don't know. I am truly sorry I hope you can figure out what happened 
*Katie*
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Nick
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Re: My Puffer just died!
It could be a few things, puffers die much more easily from pathogens that almost any other fish. Did you quarantine the tank (tang, edited by PP) for a month before introduction? Lack of quarantine introducing pathogens is the most common way disease gets into established tanks. Very sorry to hear about your puffer 
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Re: My Puffer just died!
what kind of puffer was it?
... isn't there a disease that makes fish produce an extra thick slime coat?
... isn't there a disease that makes fish produce an extra thick slime coat?
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Re: My Puffer just died!
Oh, how sad...
What do you mean by: "salinity a little low from the last cycle"? Do you mean water change?
Sounds like some sort of fast-acting bacterial infection. When's the last time he ate? Are you sure he's been acting totally normal?
What do you mean by: "salinity a little low from the last cycle"? Do you mean water change?
Sounds like some sort of fast-acting bacterial infection. When's the last time he ate? Are you sure he's been acting totally normal?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
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Re: My Puffer just died!
The following may or may not apply to this situation. It is a list of the things we could think of that could cause sliminess of the skin and death:
Fresh water: Chillodenella, Costia Trichodina, velvet, and ich
Marine: Brooklynella, Benedina (a fluke), Ich, velvet, turbellarian flatworms
In marine systems Brooklynella and Velvet are know for killing fish very quickly (2-3 days). Both often start in the gills.
Other possible causes (again, many off these may not apply).
Water quality: PH extremes, rapid changes in PH, GH, KH, temperature (These can occur with large water changes and with changes in utility tap water)
From tap water: Chlorine, Chloramine, (can occur with a change in use from utility), ammonia (some products break the chlorine ammonia bond but don't neutralize the ammonia), in some areas fish-harmful chemicals are added to water for a short time at certain times in the year.
Poisoning: Window cleaners and other cleaning products, paints and other aerosols where overspray may enter aquarium.
Airborne: Smoke, solvents, paints, and other products that produce fumes that can be picked up by the air pump. (Burnt Teflon from pans is deadly to birds, and perhaps fish also).
Also note that products like Windex may cause a large spike in ammonia burning fish gills and skin but the ammonia may be gone due to the biological filter action by the time the damage to fish is noticed.
Fresh water: Chillodenella, Costia Trichodina, velvet, and ich
Marine: Brooklynella, Benedina (a fluke), Ich, velvet, turbellarian flatworms
In marine systems Brooklynella and Velvet are know for killing fish very quickly (2-3 days). Both often start in the gills.
Other possible causes (again, many off these may not apply).
Water quality: PH extremes, rapid changes in PH, GH, KH, temperature (These can occur with large water changes and with changes in utility tap water)
From tap water: Chlorine, Chloramine, (can occur with a change in use from utility), ammonia (some products break the chlorine ammonia bond but don't neutralize the ammonia), in some areas fish-harmful chemicals are added to water for a short time at certain times in the year.
Poisoning: Window cleaners and other cleaning products, paints and other aerosols where overspray may enter aquarium.
Airborne: Smoke, solvents, paints, and other products that produce fumes that can be picked up by the air pump. (Burnt Teflon from pans is deadly to birds, and perhaps fish also).
Also note that products like Windex may cause a large spike in ammonia burning fish gills and skin but the ammonia may be gone due to the biological filter action by the time the damage to fish is noticed.
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There has to be a point.
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TvDirector911
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Re: My Puffer just died!
Thank you for all your insight - I had a porcupine puffer - I do mean water change - It was only about a 10% change - or 15 gallons to a 150 gallon tank. I checked all my levels the night of the water change (Saturday night) all were as expected and of course when I noticed the problem with the puffer - all my levels are right where they should be - my Nitrate always hovers around 10ppm - everything else 0 with a pH of 8.4 - the salinity was just a little low on that batch after I was all done with the change and I checked my salinity - I noticed it was 1.022 - and I normaly have it at 1.023 - I mix my water using tap in a 20 gallon tub that I put on my padio - I put the water in it - use the declorinator - and let it sit for an hour so the sun can warm it up a little - Its posible that some kind of contaminate could have been introduced at that point. I don't use any of the containers for any other use (the tubs for mixing salt)
My tank is right next to my computer - I didn't notice any real changes in the puffers attitude - so it did happen rather quickly -
thanks for all your insight
My tank is right next to my computer - I didn't notice any real changes in the puffers attitude - so it did happen rather quickly -
thanks for all your insight
- mikeosoft
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Re: My Puffer just died!
The same thing happened to my Porcupine Puffer, he went from fine to dead in less than 24 hours. The unofficial diagnosis was marine velvet. Lesson learned, quarantine all new fish.
My guess is that the tang brought some sort of pathogen (probably velvet) into your system (puffers are extremely sensitive). Velvet is difficult to treat because it's usually too late by the time the fish shows symptoms. The only known effective treatment for marine velvet is copper (must be treated in a quarantine tank as it will kill any inverts/corals/etc in the display tank). Puffers are also extremely sensitive to copper so the levels must be monitored carefully. Seachem makes a product called Cupramine which is a non-chelated copper and can effective at much lower doses.
I would treat the remaining fish in a separate tank and leave the display tank fishless for at least a month.
My guess is that the tang brought some sort of pathogen (probably velvet) into your system (puffers are extremely sensitive). Velvet is difficult to treat because it's usually too late by the time the fish shows symptoms. The only known effective treatment for marine velvet is copper (must be treated in a quarantine tank as it will kill any inverts/corals/etc in the display tank). Puffers are also extremely sensitive to copper so the levels must be monitored carefully. Seachem makes a product called Cupramine which is a non-chelated copper and can effective at much lower doses.
I would treat the remaining fish in a separate tank and leave the display tank fishless for at least a month.
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TvDirector911
- Puffer Fry
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- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:12 am
Re: My Puffer just died!
Ok - its been a week and now I have a visible long stringie substance all in my tank - any idea on what it could be?
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