Thank you everyone!!!!!!OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Last night before i went to sleep my 2 little guys(Irrubesco) were swimming a little bit instead of laying the bottom of the QT. This morning they are even more active. I can see some of the Ichs on their body came off. So i feel so much better but will continue monitoring and treatment. Im a rookie at this and first time treating Ichs. Thanks to the Puff libary and all of you kind puffer love for the advice. Is you all that help me save their life. Hopefully im not speaking too soon (knock on woods). Crossing my finger when i get home from work today they will loook better then this morning. Oh and i fed them some bloodworms they were willing to eat so far. Thank you everyone!!!!!!
Thank you everyone!!!!!!
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StormySkiez
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 679
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:00 am
- My Puffers: 55G 2- 1 3/4 inch GSP's ~Bud AKA Jaws and Puff~
- Location: USA~TN
Re: OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Great news to hear! Keep up the good hard work!
55g-2 green spotted puffers 1 year old Nov 08!
20g-5 leopard danio,4 whiteskirt tetras, amanos, nerita snails, 2 neon tetras
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Be sure to continue with high temps & doing large water changes to remove the free-swimming cycts, for 10 days after you see the last spot is gone on your fish.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Great news! As Pufferpunk said, don't stop the treatment just because you think they are better. There's many stages of life to the ich parasite, and you have to wait for all of them to hatch out and go through their life cycle (at which point they are invisible to the naked eye) and get to a stage that the salt and heat can kill them.
Keep us updated on how they are doing!
Keep us updated on how they are doing!
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Re: OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Update:
More ichs came off from my 2 little guys(Irrubesco)So far so good and 18 days to go!!!
More ichs came off from my 2 little guys(Irrubesco)So far so good and 18 days to go!!!
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Re: OH NOOOOO ICHS UPDATE
Once the temperature is above 86 no more dots should appear, the disease can't spread at that temperature, so the spots should disappear as quickly as they fall off.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.