OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
I realize my 2 new red tail red eye puffers have icks. all my tanks are used up therefore dont have a quarantine tank. Is it possible to treat them in the display tank?Have anyone try and sucessfully cured icks?
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crazedpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1755
- Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:57 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Porcupine Puffer
1xValentini - Location: Long Island, NY
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Do you have plants?
I've treated ich in the main tank almost everytime I've had it and it goes away very easy.
I've treated ich in the main tank almost everytime I've had it and it goes away very easy.
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
yes only 2 plants dwarf tears and the other one dwarf sag. how long did it take u? what did u do to make the ick go away in your main tank?
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Turn the temperature up to 86 or a tad higher, and add about a heaping teaspoon of salt per gallon. Should be gone in 21 days.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
my 2 red eye puffer are now sitting the bottom of the tank. seems like they are dieing. i already quarantine them. added salt and ick cure.
Turn the temp to 85f and added additional airstone.I really hope they will get better.
Turn the temp to 85f and added additional airstone.I really hope they will get better.
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crazedpuffer
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 1755
- Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:57 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Porcupine Puffer
1xValentini - Location: Long Island, NY
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
No need to use ick cure, many members have had it kill puffers lately. Do large water changes to get most of it out, and just add the salt.
Also I believe the temp should be at 86.
Also I believe the temp should be at 86.
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
yea i mean 86f but seriously they are laying next to the heater like dieing. I can see heavy infestation on the female body and i see more on the male now.
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Myaj
- Tech Team
- Posts: 4587
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 12:27 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Bubba, turgidus
Paris, lined burrfish - Location: SE Wisconsin
- Contact:
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Read the article in the library:
http://thepuffer.s464.sureserver.com/fo ... tal/fwich/
Puffers don't do well with most medications, so you might be doing them more damage with those meds in there.
And remember, the life cycle of ich (not ick, ich) is 21 days, so you want to treat for at least 4 weeks to make sure to get every last larvae, adult parasite, etc.
http://thepuffer.s464.sureserver.com/fo ... tal/fwich/
Puffers don't do well with most medications, so you might be doing them more damage with those meds in there.
And remember, the life cycle of ich (not ick, ich) is 21 days, so you want to treat for at least 4 weeks to make sure to get every last larvae, adult parasite, etc.
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Thx Maj
Yes i read the libary before i started the treatment. I added med because looks like heavy infestation. I'll just leave it at 50% water change and salt without adding any meds tomorrow but is it normal for them to laying the bottom of the tank like this when the puffers are sick with ich?
Yes i read the libary before i started the treatment. I added med because looks like heavy infestation. I'll just leave it at 50% water change and salt without adding any meds tomorrow but is it normal for them to laying the bottom of the tank like this when the puffers are sick with ich?
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Nick wrote:Turn the temperature up to 86 or a tad higher, and add about a heaping teaspoon of salt per gallon. Should be gone in 21 days.
Is that table salt? Wouldn't sea salt increase the salinity and mess up the bacterial colony?
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plurmaster
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:21 pm
- My Puffers: 1x Fake Ceylon aka SAP=El Guapo 2x DP 2x Irrubesco
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
No i didnt use table salt and i dont think is a good idea for any tanks/.fish because of iodine. I use sea salt not aquarium salt
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Nick
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 3231
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:47 pm
- My Puffers: Mine:
GSPs - Shakespeare and Jillybean
F8 - Velvet
My fiance:
DP - Emma Goldman
Narrow Lined Puffer - Ulrike - Location (country): Northeastern USA
- Location: Middletown, CT
- Contact:
Re: OH NOOOOOO ICKS!!!!
Table salt has iodide, not iodine. The very same stuff people supplement in reef tanks and to help crustacia molt. Sea salt is fine, the levels needed to treat ich will not damage your biofilter.
No matter how magnificent your successes or devastating your failures, the worlds' approximately 5 billion impoverished people could not possibly care less.