New Porcupine Puffer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Pufferpunk
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
You might want to read her article on this, in our Library.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- Sooner_Reefer
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
I'll check it out. I read an article on saltwater ich.
Also I checked today(was at my mom's house) and it has this purple stuff on it. Parasites? Looks kinda like algae but that wouldn't make any sense becuase their is none like that growing personaly and I don't think algae can grow on something moving??????????????????????????????????
This is very confusing stuff, just hope I can help my puffer pull through this.
Also I checked today(was at my mom's house) and it has this purple stuff on it. Parasites? Looks kinda like algae but that wouldn't make any sense becuase their is none like that growing personaly and I don't think algae can grow on something moving??????????????????????????????????
This is very confusing stuff, just hope I can help my puffer pull through this.
- mikeosoft
- Figure 8 Puffer
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
This Rich Ich, Rid Ich or whatever you're using is unlikely to work very well. The only proven effective treatments for SW ich are copper and hypo-salinity (down to 1.009).
You could do a short (around 5 minutes) fresh-water dip and see if the spots start to fall off. Make sure to match the pH and temperature of the QT tank that the fish is in. If the breathing becomes labored then return the fish to SW immediately. With hypo-salinity you would slowly reduce the salinity in the QT tank over a period of a few days. You need an accurate means of measuring the salinity (refractometer), because you need to take it down to exactly 1.009.
Puffers are extremely sensitive to copper so if you want to use it I would recommend using a non-chelated version because it can be used at much lower concentrations and still be effective. Seachem makes a product called Cupramine that is non-chelated, this is the only non-chelated copper medication on the market that I know of. I also recommend buying a copper test kit so you know exactly what the levels of copper you are treating with. Copper is also the only known treatment for marine velvet, which by looking at your pictures it’s hard to tell what it could be. Velvet is more of a fine dusting where Ich is spotty.
You could do a short (around 5 minutes) fresh-water dip and see if the spots start to fall off. Make sure to match the pH and temperature of the QT tank that the fish is in. If the breathing becomes labored then return the fish to SW immediately. With hypo-salinity you would slowly reduce the salinity in the QT tank over a period of a few days. You need an accurate means of measuring the salinity (refractometer), because you need to take it down to exactly 1.009.
Puffers are extremely sensitive to copper so if you want to use it I would recommend using a non-chelated version because it can be used at much lower concentrations and still be effective. Seachem makes a product called Cupramine that is non-chelated, this is the only non-chelated copper medication on the market that I know of. I also recommend buying a copper test kit so you know exactly what the levels of copper you are treating with. Copper is also the only known treatment for marine velvet, which by looking at your pictures it’s hard to tell what it could be. Velvet is more of a fine dusting where Ich is spotty.
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Well lucky for me I haven't been at my dad's for a while so I haven't added any rid ich for a while. I will go get some of the stuff recommended tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it's dusting and positive it's not ich. The "purple" stuff on its skin looks more of a skin decay type deal opposed to something growing on it. Is the skin irrated from the parasites?
- Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Could be velvet which can kill within 24 hours, I believe.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
The dusting or the purple stuff? He's had that dusting for a week now. Umm I don't have any ride or anything to treat it so if that is true, I'm screwed.Pufferpunk wrote:Could be velvet which can kill within 24 hours, I believe.
- Pufferpunk
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
I think the skin is starting to rot off. I'd get it into hypo, ASAP.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- Sooner_Reefer
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
I got 1/2 gallon DI water laying around. Should I add that?Pufferpunk wrote:I think the skin is starting to rot off. I'd get it into hypo, ASAP.
Is there some photos somewhere so I can compare it too?
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Ok well I thought it was DI but it is some drinking water. Anyways, my dad is in town right now, I'll see if he can pick up 5g DI water and I'll immediately do a water change.
- Sooner_Reefer
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
"sounds ike you have velvet disease, it is caused by one of several species of a tiny parasite known as Oödinium.
here are the common symptoms:
Scratchs against hard objects
Fish is lethargic
Loss of appetite and weight loss
Rapid, labored breathing
Fins clamped against body
Fine yellow or rusty colored film on skin and eyes
In advanced stages skin peels off
Treatment :
Raise water temperature
Dim lights for several days
Add aquarium salt
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
Because Oödinium is dependant on light, dimming the aquarium lights aids in eliminating the infestation. Increasing the water temperature to 82°F will speed the process, and adding salt to the water will ease the labored breathing caused by destruction of gill tissue. As with any treatment, activated carbon should be removed from the filter, as it will remove the drugs from the water."
googled puffer fish velvet and got that
I don't have any puffer expierence but the whole 24 hours to live sounds a little fish. I'm going to try this method, because if it is sick,a 25% water change needed to go into hypo only sounds like it'd hurt the fish. I will do a small water change tomorrow, but I'm going to see what this will do.
here are the common symptoms:
Scratchs against hard objects
Fish is lethargic
Loss of appetite and weight loss
Rapid, labored breathing
Fins clamped against body
Fine yellow or rusty colored film on skin and eyes
In advanced stages skin peels off
Treatment :
Raise water temperature
Dim lights for several days
Add aquarium salt
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
Because Oödinium is dependant on light, dimming the aquarium lights aids in eliminating the infestation. Increasing the water temperature to 82°F will speed the process, and adding salt to the water will ease the labored breathing caused by destruction of gill tissue. As with any treatment, activated carbon should be removed from the filter, as it will remove the drugs from the water."
googled puffer fish velvet and got that
I don't have any puffer expierence but the whole 24 hours to live sounds a little fish. I'm going to try this method, because if it is sick,a 25% water change needed to go into hypo only sounds like it'd hurt the fish. I will do a small water change tomorrow, but I'm going to see what this will do.
- Sooner_Reefer
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Also did another google search and found this:http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/ichpar ... dinium.htm
I does suggest Hypo, copper, and increase temperature and decrease light. So tonight I'm going to add 1g DI water, and slowly add throughout tomorrow. I'm also going to look for that copper treatment recommended for sensitive fish like puffers. I'm going to leave my lights off and get a heater in there to raise it some.
I'm not sure if puffers die in 24 hours, but there is something wrong and I'm going to do my best to treat it.
I does suggest Hypo, copper, and increase temperature and decrease light. So tonight I'm going to add 1g DI water, and slowly add throughout tomorrow. I'm also going to look for that copper treatment recommended for sensitive fish like puffers. I'm going to leave my lights off and get a heater in there to raise it some.
I'm not sure if puffers die in 24 hours, but there is something wrong and I'm going to do my best to treat it.
- mikeosoft
- Figure 8 Puffer
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Unfortunately once a puffer starts showing symptoms of velvet it's usually too late. It's very difficult to treat once it gets into the gills and such. If it is velvet, I hope your fish is able to recover. Good luck.
- Pufferpunk
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T miurus
A modestus
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C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
I could have been wrong about being dead within 24 hours, that's why I always use the words, "I believe", when I'm not sure. Might be more like what Mike was saying, that once it's showing signs of it, it will start dying within 24 hours.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
crazedpuffer
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1xValentini - Location: Long Island, NY
Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Yeah when my porc had vibrio, I couldn't get medicine the first 2 days since it was a snow storm and the stores were closed and we didn't want to drive far. The medicine did slow it down considerably though but she wasn't saved.
Hopefully you have better luck then I did.
Hopefully you have better luck then I did.
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Re: New Porcupine Puffer
Well obviously the puffer isn't doing too good right now. I added a heater and hopefuly that'll push it up 80 or 82 degrees. I'm also going to get some medicine probably around noonish and come back and add some. I'll also do a 10% water change with DI water today.