Help!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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rphillips
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:18 am
- My Puffers: 2 Green Spotted Puffers
- Location: Stokesdale, North Carolina
Help!
My new puffer is not looking as bright green as he was a few days ago. He almost looks like he has a film on him. Is this ich? What should I do. The place I bought him from sold him to me as a freshwater fish. And from what I have read I need to start slowly with marine salt to get brackish water. Could the film on him be caused by fw? Help!!
- mikeosoft
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 247
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 6:35 pm
- Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Re: Help!
Hello, welcome to TPF.
Please start by telling us what type of puffer you have, then answer the questions listed at the top of this forum. Without this information we cannot properly assist you.
Please start by telling us what type of puffer you have, then answer the questions listed at the top of this forum. Without this information we cannot properly assist you.
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rphillips
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:18 am
- My Puffers: 2 Green Spotted Puffers
- Location: Stokesdale, North Carolina
Re: Help!
I have a green spotted puffer. I have only used freshwater, do not know the water parameters. The tank is a 5 gallon tank, There is one other puffer (same kind) and and algae eater in the tank with him. The fish that is sick is approximately 2" and the other is 1 1/2". Have been feeding shrimp once a day. (freezed dried shrimp) Have not made any changes to the tank. The tank had gouramis and guppies in it 3 weeks before removing them and adding the puffers. As you can tell I am very new to all of this. We have had the puffers 4 days and my family has already grown very attached to them. There names are Football (the bigger one) and Jaws (the smaller). Please, your help would be greatly appreciated I don't want to have to tell my 10 year old and 6 year old that they have passed.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Help!
Please read the GSP article in our library & go out & shop for a much larger tank, ASAP. You'll see why, in that article.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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rphillips
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:18 am
- My Puffers: 2 Green Spotted Puffers
- Location: Stokesdale, North Carolina
Re: Help!
Just got back from purchasing a larger tank.Pufferpunk wrote:Please read the GSP article in our library & go out & shop for a much larger tank, ASAP. You'll see why, in that article.
- mikeosoft
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 247
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 6:35 pm
- Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Re: Help!
I agree with Pufferpunk, read the GSP article in the library.
The biggest problem I see if the fact that these two puffers are being kept in a tank that is WAY too small for them and they're being kept in fresh water. GSP's need low end brackish water when they're young, which should be increased to full salt water as they mature.
The combination of being kept in such a small, fresh water tank has probably lowered their immune systems significantly, they probably won't live much longer in the current conditions.
If you want to keep these fish alive I would do a HUGE water change asap (probably 75%), read up on how to care for them, then move them into a bigger tank with the proper conditions ASAP.
You should also invest in some water test kits. Knowing whats going on with the water chemistry is vital to treating any potential illness.
The biggest problem I see if the fact that these two puffers are being kept in a tank that is WAY too small for them and they're being kept in fresh water. GSP's need low end brackish water when they're young, which should be increased to full salt water as they mature.
The combination of being kept in such a small, fresh water tank has probably lowered their immune systems significantly, they probably won't live much longer in the current conditions.
If you want to keep these fish alive I would do a HUGE water change asap (probably 75%), read up on how to care for them, then move them into a bigger tank with the proper conditions ASAP.
You should also invest in some water test kits. Knowing whats going on with the water chemistry is vital to treating any potential illness.
- mikeosoft
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 247
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 6:35 pm
- Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Re: Help!
Good, it sounds like you care about the health of these fish. Unfortunately most fish stores either don't know how a puffer should be cared for, or they simply don't care. Now that they've been kept in fresh water, you'll want to slowly increase the salinity (I would shoot to raise it by a specific gravity of 0.002 per week) with an ultimate goal of 1.008 for now (fresh water should read 1.000). Make sure you use marine salt (the same stuff used for salt water aquariums), not aquarium salt (this is something different, generally used with cichlids or to treat illness). You'll need something to measure the salinity of the water, you can pickup a hydrometer pretty cheap ($10-$15), this will give you a rough idea of the salinity levels. A more expensive, but more accurate device would be a refractometer (about $60 online).rphillips wrote: Just got back from purchasing a larger tank.
Once you have the fish in the bigger tank with some salt, check back and let us know how things are going. You're not out of the woods yet, the new tank will have to cycle. You're probably looking at daily water changes of 50% for at least the next couple weeks. You can also read the article on cycling in the article. We would generally recommend cycle a tank by adding ammonia, without fish in the tank, but you don't have that option right now. Just keep in mind that puffers are VERY sensitive to toxins such as ammonia and nitrite in the water (toxins naturally produced by their waste).
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Help!
I wouldn't worry about adding salt until you have the water parameters stable. You need ammonia, nitrite, & nitrate test kits. If you can find it, purchase Bio-Spira to instant cycle that tank (add directly to the filter). DO NOT LET THE SHOP SELL YOU ANYTHING ELSE! Nothing else works like B-S & any other product can actuallly be harmful to your tank. It would help to move all the substrate, decor & filter from the smaller tank to the larger one.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"