GSPs Dark Bellies
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
GSPs Dark Bellies
I have 6 GSPs. I have just migrated to light brackish. SG 1.002. They look much happier and healthier. Those smaller onces 1 to 1 1/2 inch seems to show brighter colors with white bellies. But the larger onces 1 1/2 to 2 inches still have some dark bellies but they look healthy to me.
As far as I understand dark bellies mean not so healthy. Is that true? How to make those bellies white and round?
As far as I understand dark bellies mean not so healthy. Is that true? How to make those bellies white and round?
Joshcwj
- Pufferpunk
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
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Just tested the water parameters:
1. PH-7.5, Ammonia-0, Nitrite-0, Nitrate-50mg/L. I'm surprise the sudden increase in Nitrate. I just migrated to BW couple of days. My current SG is about 1.001. Take note that I'm leaving in tropical climate country where the room temperature is high(94F) and humid (98%). I have a bio filter in my tank and it's been there about a month. During recycling process, I add some bacteria to the bio filter to quicken to recycle process. Is it because of over access of bacteria which leads to sudden increase in Nitrate?
2. I did a 80% water change about a week ago and thereafter 20% change every alternate days in the process of migrating from FW to BW.
3. I added some artificial rocks in the tank two days ago.
Surprisingly, this morning most of my GSPs bellies have turned white except two larger ones (about 2 inches). They still looks healthy.
I'm quite concern about the 50mg/L increase in Nitrate. I think I have to do immediate water change.
1. PH-7.5, Ammonia-0, Nitrite-0, Nitrate-50mg/L. I'm surprise the sudden increase in Nitrate. I just migrated to BW couple of days. My current SG is about 1.001. Take note that I'm leaving in tropical climate country where the room temperature is high(94F) and humid (98%). I have a bio filter in my tank and it's been there about a month. During recycling process, I add some bacteria to the bio filter to quicken to recycle process. Is it because of over access of bacteria which leads to sudden increase in Nitrate?
2. I did a 80% water change about a week ago and thereafter 20% change every alternate days in the process of migrating from FW to BW.
3. I added some artificial rocks in the tank two days ago.
Surprisingly, this morning most of my GSPs bellies have turned white except two larger ones (about 2 inches). They still looks healthy.
I'm quite concern about the 50mg/L increase in Nitrate. I think I have to do immediate water change.
Joshcwj
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
While 50 is still not too bad for a fish (really bad for inverts), you should try to lower it. I'm more concerned w/the temp. what is it in the tank?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
I did a 80% water change today and increase the SG to 1.002. At the same time, I've lowered the room temperature to around 72F. I have switch in the room air-condition. Will perform the water test again tomorrow and update you with the latest results.
I have marine sand covering the bottom of the sand and artificial rocks. Will try to take a photo of my tank and post it.
I have marine sand covering the bottom of the sand and artificial rocks. Will try to take a photo of my tank and post it.
Joshcwj
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
I wouldn't make the tank any lower than 76. How large is the tank? Have you checked the water parameters (ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte, pH)?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Have you tested your water straight from the tap for nitrates? I reckon, though, it's cos of the big bioload in the tank. I see a lot of water changes for you......
Still, at least they're getting settled now. What's your feeding schedule? Make sure that you remove any uneaten food after a few mins, just to help out.
Pami.
Still, at least they're getting settled now. What's your feeding schedule? Make sure that you remove any uneaten food after a few mins, just to help out.
Pami.
-
crazyforpuffs
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2005 6:46 pm
- Location: The Big Smoke, Ontario
I have 4 GSP's...ranging in size from 1" to 3". The larger one has a black belly, splotchy at best - but is as healthy as can be...with a very nice neon green patch on his head.
The other GSP's have the typical round white bellies. Belly colour is not always an indication of poor health. Some GSP's just have a darker belly.
Do your GSP's with the darker bellies have the neon patch on the head? If so, I wouldn't worry about their belly colour.
The other GSP's have the typical round white bellies. Belly colour is not always an indication of poor health. Some GSP's just have a darker belly.
Do your GSP's with the darker bellies have the neon patch on the head? If so, I wouldn't worry about their belly colour.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32976
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Try to get the pH higher by changing substrate over to crushed coral or aragonite (8 is preferred). If they are eating & swimming normally & their colors change back & forth, not to worry.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
Feathers&Fins
- Figure 8 Puffer
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- My Puffers: Pufferless since Nova passed; had 2 red T.miuris, 4 T.biocellatus for many years.
- Location (country): KY (USA)
- Location: (US) Kentucky