The Puffer Forum

I usually keep my Nitrates under 10ppm all the time. Occasionally for a day or two they might see 15-20ppm & I will do a water change large enough to return to 0ppm.

Obviously 0ppm is ideal, but tedious work. What are acceptable nitrate levels for Fig8 puffers?

anything < or = 10ppm is excellent something to strive for...20 to 30 is ok... but easily bettered...I would have to say I average in the 5-10range between water changes...a little lower right after (but I dont usually test then) ... and a little higher right before a water change...I have 2 F8's and 2 rainbows in a 46 gal...so my bio load is pretty light

I am not sure at what level nitrates become toxic in F8's or any puffer for that matter...but I would not let them exceed 50ppm for an extended period of time

If you do weekly 50% water changes...it is doubtful they will exceed 20 ppm....but that depends on volume of water, how much is fed, ect...

Thanks a ton! I do atleast a 20% change every Sunday.

but if the tap water has nitrates and chloramine(adds ammonia upon neutralization, which leads to nitrates), wouldn't water change be akin to adding nitrate?

Depending on how high the nitrates out of the tap are.. yes.

For a long time I had 10 nitrates out of the tap, but my tanks were heavily planted so they never went above 10 unless I missed a few weeks of changes.

If your tap water had massive amounts of nitrates though, I wouldn't be drinking it, much less putting it in fish tanks!

Very nice, luckily no Nitrates are detectable with my tests through the tap.

I've thought about acquiring Java Fern for Nitrates, will the Puffers mind it? IS it a difficult plant to maintain? I used play-sand substrate, so I don't have the appropriate substrate for plants. However I read you attach them to objects in the tank and it will grow/spread on it's own?

Dear Dan06, I have java fern & Anubias in by Brackish tank - rooted to bogwood. I have to admit the anubias is not doing too well but the java fern seems to last longer . I have however mixed some fake silk plants in with the real ones this gives Fatty & finny ( my two figure eights ) the extra cover they seem to like. My conclusion is growing plants in brackish is always going to be difficult - cutings from the same plants thrive in my freshwater Danio tank

Peregrine & Myaj have the right concepts. There are no hard and solid titers available for puffers SFAIK. Everybody has to select their own comfort level for what nitrate titer they try to maintain, based on their tap/source levels and the upkeep they can do. Personally I am happy or confortable with ~10 ppm in planted tanks in FW, and undetectable would be good in BW or SW but perhaps not realistic.

In any case, the maximum allowable would be on the order of twice the preferred level - if you generally run ~10 ppm, ~20 ppm shouild be your maximum. Much over that and you may need to exercise care in your next partial water change to avoid any osmotic stress possibility by doing repeated but smaller-scale changes than your usual.

I have noticed my goldfish will get red blotches or white bumps on their fin rays if their nitrates get into the 30-40 range, even into the 20's sometimes.

That's enough of an indication to me that its bad for them!

It's probably carp pox, fairly common in goldfish and koi and they get flare-ups from degrading water condition once they contract it.