dmill82 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:05 pm
Do you prefer sumps or canister filters on your puffer tanks?.
If you run out the rear wall or Peninsula, look into a Bean Animal style overflow.
If you have a predrilled bottom, pass over the Durso old method and step up to using both holes (Herbie drain method) as a drain and use the return line like a garden hose over the glass.
The one main hole is a full drain like a bathroom sink and the second hole has a pipe that rides all the way up to the waterline to take the water in an emergency, but that never happen with aquariums right!?
Both Herbie and Bean Animal style drain methods are completely silent.
They get adjusted like a carburetor or gaeden hose spigot on a home with a screw-in threaded device that slowly adjusts the drain speed.
This drain speed will match the return pump.
This also keeps the water in the cornerflow or overflow box silent.
Go sump on a big tank in my opinion. Use a Vectra M1 or Cor 20 Silent DC pump or two.
Two DC adjustable pumps will allow one to back the other up on a failure.
Both the COR20 from Neptune and the M1 Vectra have intelligent designs for feed modes and will not turn off the pump, but go to the lowest setting made by your decision to keep the water coming up the return line to the display tank and not back to the sump.
It's really nice when used properly.
Use a mesh strainer bag on the main drain pipe in the sump.
It catches snails and is easy to clean.
Socks are a pain to clean.
Use sections of different porosity PORET style foam that does not break down in each chamber of the sump.
The bio in these sponges will eat and match your bioload from the fish over time.
All you need is sponge.
You can still you ceramic rings too in the furthest protected camber in the sump.
Keep a guard on the pumps inlet.
Spend money on the pump, not the sump.
Spears and Cepex make valves and take-down points called unions in PVC.
Spend money on good valves and good unions.
Ask away.
I can give you examples from lots of different build methods.