The Puffer Forum

Hey guys/gals, I have been lurking in the forum for a while to see if I can find anything that matches what is going on with my fahaka puffer but I am at a loss. I have a 4 inch fahaka, water PH at 7.2, temp at 77, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0, Ammonia 0, he is currently in a 65 gallon tank while I am setting up and cycling the 150 gallon. The current filter is an aqueon 75 (400gph). Bear (my fahaka) was purchased about 6 weeks ago from a local fish store and has grown about an inch and a half since then. He has been eating snails, shrimp, calamari, mussels, and the occasional dried krill. I realized two weeks ago he had Camellanus worms - did a bunch of research -including the diary on here from another woman with a fahaka that dealt with this same problem- and opted to try feeding him fenbendazole before putting the levamisole into his water. I am loathe to try a water treatment on any scaleless fish. However I think I may have overdosed him on the fenbendazole. He ate a piece of shrimp with a bunch of medication stuck inside that had not dissolved in the water. I did not think to check the interior of the shrimp before feeding it to him, plus I was soaking his food in it (this went on for 5 days). The fenbendazole (fish-bendazole is the actual name I bought) has not changed the status of his worms at all. Only now he has been refusing to eat much (a couple of 1/4 inch snails) and has been staring at the back of his tank head down, tail up for last the 3 days. I did a 50-60% water change on Wednesday and vacuumed his sand (he has about 3 inches of soft sand as a substrate), I have been keeping the lights off on the tank, and have been checking his water quality daily. I would appreciate any advice anyone can give me.

I just read the the Forum rules...
The fahaka is the only thing in the tank, the aquarium has been up for 7 weeks and cycled for a week before I brought him home, I feed once a day, and I use Prime to treat the water.

As far as I know, you can't overdose a fish on IP meds. http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamellanusTreatment.pdf

Possibly constipated - alot of people combine IP treatment with epsom salts as a precautionary measure to ensure the medication flushes through

1 tbsp/10g Epsom salt for a FW fish.

Thanks guys I will try the Espsom salts and see if he perks up.

Good afternoon, I attempted the Epsom salt bath but I have noticed (as he has been quarantined) that he is flicking and rubbing on anything in the tank. I have also noticed small granules attached to him that I had assumed previously was sand since he enjoys burying himself at night. I am now wondering if he has Ich as well as IP's. I have read multiple posts regarding proper Ich treatment, (including the one in the library) can anyone give me a more step by step process for clearing Ich with salt? ie What kind of salt specifically? I am assuming this is marine salt not Epsom but I do not want to make an error that could hurt my fish. Also is the 1 tablespoon to 5 gallons correct? That is a lot of salt. Should I have an unsalted tank on hand if he does not tolerate it well? And last but not least how quick should I raise the temperature on the tank? Is 1 degree per day acceptable? Won't the higher heat cause a loss of oxygen in the water?

Ohhhh and can I be treating him for Ich while treating with Levamisole for Camellanus at the same time? If I have to pick one, does anyone know which treatment would be more important.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Again any/all help and knowledge is appreciated!

Why are you not showing nitrAtes? Be sure to thoroughly mix the nitrAte test solution bottles before adding to the test tube for testing. These need to be vigorously mixed for a minute or two. Especially the #2 test solution bottle. I do this by smacking the bottle bottoms against the palm of my other hand. If not mixed thoroughly they can and will give a low reading. I've tested and seen this myself. Also let the bottle sit for a few minutes before testing so the micro bubbles settle out of the solution.

Good luck with your puff.

There is a description of the heat/salt method stickied in this forum. Not sure if it's mentioned but you also need to be doing 80% water changes, while thoroughly cleaning the substrate to remove as many free-swimming cysts as possible, every 2 days during treatment.

Found the sticky! (I didn't know about stickies...) fantastic information! I will try the jostling and timing for the nitrates when I test the water tomorrow.
I appreciate your patience and help. This is not my first puffer, but it is my first sick puffer.