The Puffer Forum

Hi guys,

My first post - so be gentle! I've had my GSP (Doug!) for about 2 weeks now. I'd been cycling my tank for several weeks prior to getting him (adding active bacteria products) to aid the cycling process, and using 'dip-stick' tests (Tetra 6-in-1 tests) which do most of the main tests, apart from ammonia to check the water was fine.

I ordered an API freshwater test kit last week - mainly to get more accurate results than the dip-stick tests and of course to monitor the ammonia levels. I've been unable to get the ammonia levels down from 0.25ppm (I've been doing 20% water changes every other day for the last week since I've got the test kit).

There was no difference to ammonia levels before or after a water change, so I tested the tap water (treated with Tetra Aquasafe) I was filling the tank with. Surprise surprise, 0.25ppm! I looked online and people mentioned that sometimes tap water can contain chloramine (which contains chlorine and ammonia) which can leave ammonia in the water even after being treated? I've looked at the Aquasafe bottle and it says "Chlorine and chloramine are eliminated".

So my questions are as follows:

1) Should I be worried that this is effecting Doug?
2) Should I keep up with the water changes every other day?
3) Should I continue using treated tap water to top up the tank, or should I buy mineral water from the supermarket?
4) Do you have any other suggestions to get the ammonia levels down?
5) How do you lower pH levels?

My current water stats are:
Ammonia - 0.25ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 30ppm
pH - 8.4


Thanks in advance guys,

Danny.

1st things 1st: What is the ammonia level of your tap water?

I had the same problem except it was ridiculously high nitrates that I couldn't bring down. My problem turned out to be the water source so more than likely it is the same problem for you with the ammonia issues.

Hey welcome to the forum, are you treating the water at all before adding it to the tank? Prime should take care of it.

Prime will still show ammonia because it is still there. Prime only binds ammonia making it safer for the fish.

I thinke PP is on track about testing the TW.

Danny, do you have the API kit on order or have you actually tested with it? What is the SG of your tank? I find that my BW at 1.005 gives the API ammonia test water a slight green tint, and not an obvious clear yellow tint.

2nd: What is this "bacteria" you cycled with?

Welcome to the forum. If your tap and tank water are showing ammonia try testing bottled water. In a cycled tank water with an ammonia level will be quickly dealt with by your tanks bacteria. If bottled water shows ammonia then either your test is faulty or the test isn't quite being done quite right. Most bacteria products are not what they should be. Lastly try to get your nitrates under 20 ppm

Thanks for the quick replies!

@ pufferpunk : The ammonia levels of the tap water (after being treated with dechlorinator) was 0.25ppm. Should I test the water without any treatment? Regarding the bacteria treatment, I was using API stress zyme which doing my fishless cycling and since getting Doug, I've been using 'Neutrafin cycle' when doing any water changes.

@Puffykid - Yes, I'm using Tetra Aquasafe as a dechlorinator.

@JRC3 - The results are from the API test kit which arrived last week. The SG is around 1.005-1.008 I believe (I bought a hydrometer but the lowest value on it is 1.018 >_<). If anyone has any suggestions for a hydrometer or refractometer - that would be greatly appreciated! Also, I tested the dechlroinated tap water (with no salt added) and it was still showing 0.25ppm.

@bertie 83 - I will pick up some bottled water and try that tonight.


Thanks guys,

Danny.

Having troubles posting, please bear with me.

Most hobby test kits cannot diggerentiate between ammonia locked into the ammonium ion form (harnless) and unionized ammonia (toxic). Seachem makes a kit which can differentiate, but it is not user-friendly IME.

As mentioned previously, use PRIME as a dechlor, it detoxifies ammonia.

I have not seen proof that Stresszyme works & Cycle is nothing but DEAD bacteria, adding to your bioload. NEVER use a cycling product that says you have to keep adding it every week. Either the live bacteria is established or not. You shouldn't have to keep adding more. They're just stealing your $$$.

Do not use bottled water, unless you plan on reconstituting the minerals.

Instant Ocean & Sea Test both make hydrometers that start at 1.000.

Using something like Prime will cause the ammonia in your tap water to become harmless to your fish. The thing is, once the water is in your tank the bacteria should remove that ammonia from the water.

How are your nitrite and nitrate levels? If they are where they should be (nitrite is zero and nitrate less than 20) then wait a few days before doing a water change. You should see the ammonia reading for your tank go down to 0.

^
Are you referring to the nitrAtes? I know a lot of tapwater in the UK has this problem.

Pufferpunk wrote: 1st things 1st: What is the ammonia level of your tap water?

That has to be a hard thing to deal with while keeping fish.