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Building a tank stand.
Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 2:02 am
by Phaedrus
There are probably a lot of guides out there about building a tank stand, but I figured I'd show off my own stand that is currently being built by my father for my 55 gallon tank. He does a lot of woodworking and cabinetry so I'm excited to see how it turns out. One thing is sure, it will be sturdy. He tells me it'll take two men and a boy to carry it when it's done. :p
I'll add more pictures and information as it progresses. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The frame: Those are solid 4x4s secured with sunken screws.

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 4:42 pm
by The Fisherman
cool! im very intrested to know how it turns out!im intrested in learning to build my own stands.
Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:30 pm
by Peregrine
Looks true and plumb, and strong enough to hold a truck aloft let alone a fish tank.
Are the joints mortised or just butt joints?
How are you planning to sheet it?
My only concern would be cross bracing to prevent lateral movement of the upright pieces
Can't wait to see how it turns out

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:48 pm
by Hilly
Looks very strong, thick pieces of wood and big bolts, looks about a 4' cabinet.
Like Peregrine says even though it will be very strong some cross bracing would just make it that bit more rigid when the tank is seated.
Have you thought about what storage you want underneath the cabinet.
Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 7:53 pm
by Phaedrus
I'll post more technical details and more pictures later that should answer a lot of the questions.
Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:24 pm
by YBeNormal
Cross-bracing should not be required if the frame is skinned with plywood sheeting or hardwood.
Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:38 pm
by Phaedrus
YBeNormal wrote:Cross-bracing should not be required if the frame is skinned with plywood sheeting or hardwood.
Bingo. The whole thing will indeed to encased in a plywood shell. The top will also have a water proof sheet of (? i can't recall the name of the material off hand ? ). This is also the white material you see in the picture at the bottom of the frame that will server as the bottom of the interior cabinet. This is to contain any leaks and generally protect from moisture.
There will be a door on the front and an open panel in the back for mechanical access. The interior cabinet should be large enough to house a canister and a sump with a skimmer as well as miscellaneous storage when all is said and done. At least that's the plan

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:56 pm
by YBeNormal
Sounds great and the workmanship looks excellent. In fact, almost as good as the job that I would have done!

Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:16 am
by Phaedrus
More pictures!
The stand itself is ~4' long and ~2 1/2' wide. The top extends over the stand edges another foot on each side. This is for some shelf space.
The plywood that encases the frame is 3/4inch thick (I believe) and has an oak finish and will be varnished or varathaned to make it water-proof and bring out the oak a bit more.
The access door is a little small... I may have to ask to get it enlarged a bit, because as it is now I'm not sure I could fit a sump tank through it
There will also be an access hole on the back side for tubing etc to go through.
Originally there was supposed to be extra shelving underneath the overhanging top, but due to technical difficulties and time constraints, that's been put on hold, perhaps indefinitely. Any ideas on how to get a shelf on there easily?
So far, with the exception of the small door, I'm pleased with it. It'll be sturdy at the very least :p
Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:51 am
by YBeNormal
Lookin' good!
You can cut very thin strips of oak or buy 3/4" oak trip and glue it to the top edge for looks. This will also seal the plywood edges and keep them from swelling.
Adding a shelf or two under the sides is very easy. cut the shelf to size and use screws from the inside of the stand into the edge of the shelf. I would then cut a piece of wood (or even a wood strip, dowel, etc.) to go on the backside from the underside of the top shelf to the top of the new shelf. If you use large dowels or turned posts, you can place them on the outside front and back and it will look very nice. Glue and clamp this in place and is should be sturdy enough to support a decent amount of weight. I'm not sure if this description makes sense. If not, PM me and we can work through some ideas.
Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:57 am
by Phaedrus
That is the plan for the edges I believe.
I see what you're saying about the shelves. I had a similar take on it.
The dificulty really lies in the fact that I'm in a different city than the carpenter :p Despite describing details at length over the phone, it's so much more effective to just be there in person.
Thanks for the comments. I'll post some final pics when all is said and done.
Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:24 pm
by strike2
looks great.
Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:50 pm
by Apocalyptictoast
I did some shelves on the wall in my room...you can get a shelf kit at home depot (home improvement store here in Texas..not sure if they have them there..). You just screw the metal strips on and you can put supports in them, then just put the wood on the supports. You can change the heights of the shelves depending on what you have on them. Ill see if I can find an example online..
Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:07 pm
by Apocalyptictoast
If you go to that website and click on rubbermaid, its the last product on the second page. The shelves are actually pretty durable, too.
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN ... 12&pos=n14
Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 3:59 am
by crazy loaches
I don't have any construction pics handy but here is the stand I built originally for my 40G long tank, and later modified it for my 75G. Its got a 2x4 frame with solid pine around, accept for plywood door panels. I will soon be building a new stand for a 150G and I'll be stepping up to 4x4's for that.
