The Puffer Forum

Ok. I think I may have found the perfect starter tank for my F8(s). It is a 55 gallon tank and stand. Below are some images.

My thoughts are this:

I believe I could probably keep 3-4 F8 in here. Does that sound right?

The tank is currently up and running and working (setup as freshwater). Does this mean that it is Cycled already or do I still need to do that? The owner lives 5minutes from my house, so we could possibly drain the water half way and then move it over. Regardless though, do I still need to cycle the tank? If I had to Cycle, would I follow the normal fishless cycle process or would it be faster/different since this is currently up and running?

Second thought is the filters (1 EX 45 and 1 EX 70); They work great now, but I wonder if they will be enough for the F8s? Would it be best to start with a single F8 and see how the filters work? Ideally, I'd like to use the existing Filters, and then replace them later. If and when I replace the filters, I thought about replacing them with this: http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aqu ... B000260FV6. Would one of those be enough or should I look at for a tank this size (they say for tanks 60-110 gallon)?

Third thought is the Substrate. A lot of setups I've seen show sand as the substrate. Is this what is most recommended for F8s?

Last is powerheads. There are none in the tank. Do I need them with this being used for F8s?

The heater is a 300watt heater and works well. The tank itself appears to be in good shape and the stand is perfect. I know I'll need to add more decoration (caves, etc) but I can do that over time right?

I apologize for all of the questions, but again, I'm still learning and trying to do proper research before jumping into this.

If someone could take the time and help me out with the questions above, I would greatly appreciate it.

If the tank has fish in it then it is cycled, stick with those filters and upgrade if necessary. 3 f8 and some bbg will be perfect in there. The substrate is your choice. Add decor as you can, and powerheads are not essential.

What will become of the fish currently in the tank now? If they need re-homed then call the LFS around you and someone will probably give you some in store credit. Mine usually gives about 1/3 their listed price.

When you actually move the tank put all the current filter media in a bucket of tank water to keep the bacteria alive. Also never replace that media with new unless it is falling apart...Just rinse it out in a bucket of old tank water or dechlorinated water of the same temperature. If you ever do replace the media, just do one at a time with a few weeks in between. Instead of buying an AC110 I would buy 2 AC70s. This way if one filter craps out you will always have the other one running until the other can be replaced or fixed.

And by all means do not try and move the tank with water in it. It will either crack and possible cut you or it will shatter in to a thousands pieces if the glass is tempered.

No need for powereheads.

I believe the rule is 15 gallons for the first F8 and then ten more for each additional, but I am pretty sure I have also seen that there has not been much success with keeping four or more F8s. Wait until someone else confirms those points, but I would go with what Bertie suggested--three figs and a few bumblebee gobies.

Aragonite sand is often used in puffer tanks because it helps increase water hardness. Some puffers need sand substrate, particularly those that burrow in it. However, F8s don't burrow. I have black gravel in my tank, but I live in Florida and we have pretty hard water without the help of sand and shells.

F8s do not need powerheads since they are brackish water, and powerheads are for marine aquariums

You can definitely slowly expand on deocrations over time. F8s are incredibly curious and intellegent, they like to explore their toys. It took me several weeks to accumulate what I use in my tank, and I ended up taking some stuff out. I have a good amount of deco in Lola's tank, but instead of putting a LOOOT in there that I couldn't move around, I just change the layout of her plants and decorations every week or two when I do water changes. Costant aquascaping, haha.

Hope that helps, seems like you're doing a really good job getting everything in check before jumping in.

Thank you all very much for the responses.

It was mentioned that if there are fish in the tank then it is already Cycled. I plan on still checking the SG levels though. I assume I should get a test kit to test the levels. Is there a particular kit you guys recommend?

I'll plan on moving the tank with no water in it then. As such, I assume I'll need to actually Cycle the tank once I have it re-setup in my house?

I'll certainly need some assistance when it comes time to Cycle the tank.

As far as the current fish go, I plan on taking them back to the LFS to return. Hopefully I'll get some credit .

Also, very stupid question about heaters, but having never owned one I'm not sure how they work. I assume they have a dial of some sort that you set to control the amount of heat being put, thus controlling the water temp?

I'll probably start with 3F8 at first, just to get use to everything.

The other thing I need to learn more about is a snail tank. I've been doing some reading and it looks like I could get away with a 5g or 10g tank for snails. Am I able to keep Ghost Shrimp in there as well? Does the snail tank need to be the same SG as the F8 tank? If not, how do you go about feeding the snails to the F8? Do you simply put the snail in the tank with the fish for feeding or do you put it in water from the tank to soak for a bit first?

Thanks again for all the help

If you transport filter media in tank water it should maintain most of the bacteria. Set it up as is then raise sg at .002 per week. The f8 are prob freshwater at the Lfs anyway. The heater does have a dial to adjust but it's probably set at the right temp for that tank anyway. Snail breeders should contain only snails no shrimp, a 10g would make a good breeder but smaller is ok. Just throw in snails the size of your puffs eye and he will do the rest.

So, as far as snail tanks go, could I just use the small 5g (or 10g) and place it inside the stand that the fish tank is on (it is has doors and space underneath to put things.

I was hoping to do this, simply to conserve space and to keep my 17 month out of the tank (I'll lock the doors lol).

Does the snail tank need a heater and light?

Yes you could put it in there. I plant out my tanks and keep them fairly warm so ideally yes a snail tank should be warm and light

When checking salinity/SG, there isn't really a "test," like how there are ammonia, pH, etc tests. You can get a hydrometer or (preferably) a refractometer. If you get a hydrometer (what I use since they are cheap and refractometers are not), make sure it starts off at 1.000, which is freshwater. Mine is a brand called Coralife, I got it a petsmart.
As far as test kits for anything else goes, API liquid tests (no strips!) is what seems to be the consensus. They don't have a brackish test kit, just fresh, marine, and reef. I use fresh since Figs are relatively low salinity.

I'm not so convinced you should start out with just the Figs. The longer you wait, the less tolerant they are of tankmates. It's better if you introduce the Figs all at once, along with the gobies. It is up to you, of course, and i understand the desire to wait, but just from what I have heard it doesn't typically work out as well. I keep Lola on her own, so I can't say anything about my own experiences.

I use a 10 gallon for snails. No gravel, because they are disgustingly messy and it is impossible to clean. I had gravel in my first snail tank (6gal) and it was... ugh. Bad. I painted the bottom of the tank (on the outside of course) so it wouldn't look so weird. Asthetics.
Shrimp cannot be kept with the snails because the shrimp will eat the snails and their eggs.
The snail tank can be kept fresh, it's easiest.
You can simply drop the snails into the tank for your puffers to find I always watch Lola closely because I have read about snails infesting display tanks and that doesn't sound fun to me, at all. They reproduce like crazy.
While you carry the risk of being bitten, what I sometimes do is put the snail on my finger and put my finger in. Lola's only bitten me once, usually she has pretty good aim, haha.

woo! hope all of that helps, sorry I got a little carried away

Oh, and yes, snails need light and heat. I don't have a heater in my snail tank, but I do have a light on a timer. Snails will reproduce more when it is warmer, but they will spawn no matter what. Feed them algae tablets and/or fresh green veggies, and feed them a little more than you would think they need. That'll encourage them to lay eggs, too.

There is a link floating around here about safe and unsafe fish food/tablets, i'm going to go find it for you.

[edit] viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28251&p=305412&hili ... in#p305412 Here is the link. What you feed your snails is what you feed your puffers!