The Puffer Forum

How do I do a fishless cycling (step by step if possible) for my DP???

I didn't answer you when you 1st posted this query in another thread, because the Library here isn't working right now. I was hoping it would be soon... but if you do an internet search on this, there are tons of articles on fishless cycling.

Just don't follow the one that tells you to put pH down in, don't add any commercial pH adjusters to the tank.

This article looks very thorough:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f1 ... 48283.html

You guys are too amazing. Thank you!

Is prime ok to use? my mom used that in our current tank. its a freshwater 60 gal (soon to be a 180) with 2 tin foil barbs, 2 oscars, a chocolate, a severum, and a cukoo catfish.

Prime is the preferred water conditioner. It's muy bueno

YAY!

The article cited is okay except for a couple of things which are suggested and should not be.

1. The author suggests using 4 ppm ammonia initially and maintaining that throughout the process. That is too high. The process was developed to support at least 2x the total bioload which any given tank will support, and 3 ppm is that 2x maximum bioload figure. 4x is overkill, which would be okay it it were not also true that ammonia titers higher than 2-3 also slow down the development of the nitrite oxidizers. This can needlessly prolong the cycle time. 3 ppm is plenty to start, and as soon as the first ammonia reduction is noted, even that figure can and should be decreased, to 1.5 to 2 ppm. This will allow the nitrite oxidizers to develop more rapidly. If ammonia levels are at or above 5ppm, the cycle may never complete itself. So pay attention to the ammonia levels and keep them optimum, never excessive.

2. Plants are not appropriate to fishless cycling, as they require regular light to survive. Regular light during fishless cycling sufficient to support plants can easily result in massive algae attacks. Plant the tank after cycling is complete.

If the ammonia spike is longer than 2 weeks, you may do better re-introducing bacteria. If it is as long as 3-4 weeks, you may not have enough nitrite-oxidizers left for a normal cycle and should definitely re-inoculate bacteria.

A good fishless cycle is 2-3 weeks, but few hobbyists can do that the first time. It should always be 4 weeks or less.

Crushed coral and aragonite are not at all equal in solubility. Aragonite is far better than crushed coral, so should be the hardness agent of choice if it is available to you. The pH for cycling is best at and above 7.0, but that must, repeat must, be done only by boosting the alkalinity by aragonite or coral. Commercial buffers will not provide the alkalinity reserve required for fishless cycling.

HTH

Thank you RTR! There were so many obviously bad articles, I tried to pick a better one. But without having access to your article in the library to reference, I couldn't remember it verbatim, I couldn't catch the incorrect details.

It's back!
viewtopic.php?f=67&t=28467

I'M SPEECHLESS! now I have a new issue. I found a tank (about the size I was going to get for Christmas) in someones trash pile this morning. Me and my mom put it in the car and after I got back from school today I cleaned it like crazy (without soap, don't worry ) and I was just wondering if there is anything else to do to make sure no diseases or anything bad transfer to my fish???

You could sterilize it like a hospital tank. 1 part bleach, 9 parts water, I think that's it. Let it soak over night. Then rinse like crazy, fill with tap water and Prime, double dose. Let it sit for a few hours. Then rinse again.

its a flat back hexagon. how do i find out how many gallons it is??