The Puffer Forum

Okay, I know a 120 is recommended over a 125 more for the front to back length (to allow a fahaka to turn around), and I *think* RTR said something about he's kept them in smaller volumes as long as they had the 24"+ room front to back (splitting a tank for more than one)?

So I was browsing the tanks on the website of a local, warehouse type fish store that has crappy stock and unknowedgable employees, but great tank prices. Just getting an idea of what was going to cost me what, etc.

They have an economy line of tanks that has some "different" sizes than usual. Cubes for example. I have a 60 cube made by this line and I don't see any problems with it at all, its a great, well made tank.

So I just happend to see they have a 110 WIDE tank. Its 48x24x22. A 120 is 48x24x25, so the only difference is its 3 inches shorter in height, the footprint is the same. Would this still be acceptable for a fahaka puffer? I'm thinking it is, and I'd really like to hear that it is because the price of the 110 wide tank is $177 and the 120 is $300. That's $120 I can spend on filtration, etc that I wouldn't have otherwise...

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You are correct in that it is the footprint that matters. The actual water volume is less significant. These are big-ish and strong fish, they do need to exercise. The volume difference is relatively trivial in that these are not "tall" fish (like sebae monos), the water depth difference is not a deal-buster. Even from an upkeep viewpoint, it will be hard to read the differences between a 120 and a 110 - in theory the "smaller" tank will need a bit more upkeep when the fish is mature, but in practice minor variations in feeding will not likely be detectable.

My big questions would be the quality of the workmanship and the thickness of the glass. Uneven seams can weaken a tank remarkably - If there is a range of tanks in your area, try looking closely at the seams of the economy line, any of the standard lines (mid-price tanks) and the super-tanks (Oceanic if available in your area). The price differences show up in quality and thickness of the glass, the smoothness of the glass cuts, the evenness of the silicone seams and the weight of the whole tank without water or substrate.

When you move out of mid-size tanks (over 75 gallons for me) and are past 100 gallons, the risk of tank failure becomes potentially catastrophic. Many rental properties will not allow such tanks, even when they are concrete-slab high rises and can easily handle the weight. Most non-custom wood frame private homes may be at risk with such tanks without an engineer's okay on placement of the tank. Check this out where appropriate before you purchase.

Up-front dollar cost is not everything. I wish that I could afford all Oceanic tanks, but in practice I cannot and would not - it would be overkill for most of my usage anyway. But all of my large tanks are at least the mid-priced standard brands. I just do not trust the thinner glass and less-than-perfect seams of the economy tanks. I might use such for small tanks, but never for large tanks.

But look the product over carefully, what ever the line and price - slips and goofs can happen in any price range.

HTH

so you wouldnt think a 125 that is 6/1.5/2" would be ok for a fahaka?

Nope, NIMFT. The fish could not turn around w/o fin damage. The 6' length is good, the 18" front to back is awful.

They do make great tanks for smallish schoolers though...