The Puffer Forum

As the title states, just wondering if anyone is using, or has used a metal halide on a fw tank? If so, what were the results? I have a couple spare 400w halides with ballasts, and a 1000w high pressure sodium with ballast.I was thinking of trying just one of the 400w halides, and incorporating it into a canopy I am planning on building.Would this be overkill for the plants/fish? I have lots of water hyacinth, and water lettuce floating in my 120g so it should help subdue the light somewhat. The reason why I want to use this lamp is mostly because I am only using one t5NO double and an old t12 obnoxiously large fixture. These two alone are not enough light to reach the bottom of the tank, in order to keep my plants flourishing(even without the floating plants). I could always go and buy another t5 strip, but would prefer to utilize one of the halides if at all possible, so I can spend the cash saved on yet another tank
Another question would be.... How far should I safely suspend the light above the tank, as it produces alot of heat?
Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Most tanks using halides need to be open topped, leaving the puffer easy access to your floor. They also usually require a chiller.

Pufferpunk wrote:Most tanks using halides need to be open topped, leaving the puffer easy access to your floor. They also usually require a chiller.

hmmmm...A chiller hey? Have to look into that!
I was definitely going to incorporate small Ac powered fans into my canopy build to help disperse the heat.

Another question (with perhaps an obvious answer I am unaware of)
How is it that one can "get away" without a lid on SW as opposed to FW. I understand that the glass lid would probably just crack from the heat of a halide lamp, and that the light emitted would refract to much thru the glass lids, thus not reaching the corals and such to keep them alive. Do SW fish, just not jump? Doubtful. Having never kept Sw fish, this has always left me perplexed.

Every one of my wrasses became carpet surfers. Even a dwarf lionfish. Some folks use mesh screening to let the light in & keep the fish wet.

Sorry to hear about the fishes carpet surfing-hope U were able to save some of them!

I only use a lid on one of my tanks, and it only covers half the tank. I use a piece of egg crate to cover the half that houses a Black ghost knife, which makes him alot more active during the day when its in place, as opposed to him staying put in his rock cave till night fall.

So, just to reinstate my original question....anyone ever use a halide on a freshwater setup?

I don't personally but many planting enthusiasts do, the question that you've got to ask yourself - apart from 'will the fish jump?' - is will the lamp provide a beam angle wide enough to reach all parts of the tank?
Also the higher the light intensity the more critical the balance of ferts and CO2 you will need to keep the algae at bay.

Are you sure its the light that is the problem? What is the Watts per (US)Gallon? How deep is the tank? Are you sure that the floating plants aren't blocking the light? What ferts are you dosing and what is your dosing strategy?

Iliveinazoo wrote:I don't personally but many planting enthusiasts do, the question that you've got to ask yourself - apart from 'will the fish jump?' - is will the lamp provide a beam angle wide enough to reach all parts of the tank?
Also the higher the light intensity the more critical the balance of ferts and CO2 you will need to keep the algae at bay.

Are you sure its the light that is the problem? What is the Watts per (US)Gallon? How deep is the tank? Are you sure that the floating plants aren't blocking the light? What ferts are you dosing and what is your dosing strategy?

I only have 1.11R watts per gallon(though I don't believe this to be a accurate measure of light) using the old t12 and the t5 dual strip-so pretty sure its lack of light which is the issue. The tank is 24" deep. I am positive the floating plants are blocking the light, but more so in the front end of the tank as opposed to the back end where I have my higher light required plants(Val). Fert wise, I use a combination of Laguna "pond sticks"(16-9-12), and Jobe's(13-4-5). I have read that some people think Jobe's sticks shouldn't be used in aquaria, although I use them in a different tank with excellent results, and have seen other peoples tanks that use them and swear by them(they keep and breed discus in these tanks). My strategies? Usually only revealed on a chess board. There just plant sticks, I try not to over analyse this. I don't use, and don't plan on using Flourish, or any other type of plant minerals, or ferts. I have a DIY co2 bottle that I use on a different tank, and would probably need in excess of four bottles to make any real difference on the 120 gallon where some of my plants are having difficulties. As U may of noticed, I am trying to keep plants on the cheap so to speak. In the mean tyme I am in the process of making a new shroud for my metal halide which will house the bulb horizontally instead of vertically. Now the fun of finding a stud in the ceiling(plaster of paris) in this 100 year old building. If all else fails, I can always keep lower light plants like my Frazeri, and Nana
Much obliged for your input

no need for a FW tank. regular floressent lighting is fine. MH lighting for coral ,really large and deep tanks .

Really heats up the water, too.

It will be fine. One 400W MH will light the whole tank beautifully. I do have to warn that you'll have to equal the amount of light with Co2, ferts, etc. As for the heating issue, a small fan is plenty. I run a 175 Watt MH on my 20 gallon reef and I simply point a fan over the water. Problem fixed.