The Puffer Forum

I had posted in the Brackish Tank section but maybe it would do better here since I am focusing on a specific puffer?

Greetings All- I am thinking about turning my 15g FW into a brackish tank for one (1) F8; dont have him just thinking...... The 15g is fully cycled and has a few tiger barbs in it.

1. From your experience, can the tiger barbs survive in low-end brackish?

2. Will the F8 be aggressive enough to keep some of these TBs in check? I origianlly had the TBs in my 60g tank but they were too aggressive with my SAPs.

3. Do you recommend doing 20% water changes weekly like I do with my FW tanks? From reading other posts this looks like a good idea and to frequently monitor salt content.

4. Will a Biowheel 150 (good for 30g tanks) be able to handle brackish water? From experience does this type of filter work well in Brackish tanks? I am coming to the conclusion that going brackish (even low-end) really reeks havoc on these filters.

Thanks!! -Matt

MatthewLaw wrote:1. From your experience, can the tiger barbs survive in low-end brackish?

Honestly, I don't know, but you shouldn't have other fish with your F8 if it's only a 15 gallon tank (with the exception of a couple Bumblebee Gobies, as they don't produce too much waste).

MatthewLaw wrote:2. Will the F8 be aggressive enough to keep some of these TBs in check? I origianlly had the TBs in my 60g tank but they were too aggressive with my SAPs.

(See above)

MatthewLaw wrote:3. Do you recommend doing 20% water changes weekly like I do with my FW tanks? From reading other posts this looks like a good idea and to frequently monitor salt content.

Yes. Water changes are highly recommended. Monitoring your salt content is also important, as you mentioned.

MatthewLaw wrote:4. Will a Biowheel 150 (good for 30g tanks) be able to handle brackish water? From experience does this type of filter work well in Brackish tanks? I am coming to the conclusion that going brackish (even low-end) really reeks havoc on these filters.

On the contrary, the bio-wheel reeks havoc on your brackish aquarium. Bio-wheels work perfectly fine for brackish tanks, but the problem arises because the rotating wheel can cause a large amount of salt creep. Salt creep is when salty water is splashed onto a surface, evaporates, and leaves behind all the salt that was in that water. Bio-wheels create a lot of "spray", which results in a large build-up of salt on the outside of your tank (usually on the lid).

Other than the salt creep, though, bio wheels work very well for brackish tanks.

TBs aren't BW fish.

Thanks for the help. I was not sure about TBs in brackish since molly's can adapt and survive well in brackish. i have been reading online that TBs can tolerate brackish and in other situations, it isn't good for them.

if i clean off the tank and discharge area regularly, then the biowheel issue shouldn't well, be an issue, right?

Thanks again!! -Matt

Nope, won't be an issue at all.

Thanks again.

What type of instrument do you persaonlly use to measure salinty level? Some have recommended hydrometer and/or refractometer?

MatthewLaw wrote:Thanks for the help. I was not sure about TBs in brackish since molly's can adapt and survive well in brackish. i have been reading online that TBs can tolerate brackish and in other situations, it isn't good for them.

That's because mollies are really BW fish Tolerating & thriving in certain water are 2 difernt things.

MatthewLaw wrote:What type of instrument do you persaonlly use to measure salinty level?

I recommend a refractometer over a hydrometer, as you get a more accurate reading. Hydrometers usually cost you about $15-20, and a refractometer runs for about $45-60.

Thanks for the help.