The Puffer Forum

I've never owned an Mbu, and I never plan on changing that. However, in the Pufferpedia, it states that the minimum tank size is 1000 US Gallons. Does anybody on this forum keeping an Mbu keep it in like a tank less than 200G? I heard that they do fine in a 150G if it's the right dimensions. Just wondering.

Read the sticky on them in the FW puffer section, written by a man keeping puffers for over 50 years.

Also read the article by Manitius about Clooney, his Mbu, who recently died.

They just don't do well. I mean, I think RTR said you *could* get one to survive in a 500 or so gallon tank, but the fish just physically doesn't have enough swimming room and keeping the water quality good enough is nearly impossible in a tank that size.

I agree, a tank under 500G is not big enough to rpovide richness of environment and swimming room as well as the build up of watses. I had mine in a 115G(US) admitteedly with other fish and my Nitrates were constantly above 180ppm even with 200% water changes at times. Now that Clooney has gone my Nitrates is down to an acceptible 15ppm. That's how much waste these guys produce and only in a much larger tank can you keep these levels Dilute. I too cited the 1000G in my article because I defered to the superior knowledge and experience of RTR but I wouldn't have said it if I didn't beleive it to be necessary.

People that say that they can be fine in a 150G cannot say it untilthe Mbu has reached full size or lived for at least 10 years IMO. I would think that these fish could live 15yrs+ given a huge tank

Thanks guys (and girls). Just wondering

groovitudedude wrote:I've never owned an Mbu, and I never plan on changing that. However, in the Pufferpedia, it states that the minimum tank size is 1000 US Gallons. Does anybody on this forum keeping an Mbu keep it in like a tank less than 200G? I heard that they do fine in a 150G if it's the right dimensions. Just wondering.

you can keep a mbu in a 150G..... you can also drive a car with your feet... doesnt mean to say its to be done

flash.dan wrote: you can keep a mbu in a 150G..... you can also drive a car with your feet... doesnt mean to say its to be done

I posted this a while back when i didn't know the true size of them. Thanks for clearing it up.

Ive got mine in a 180 at the moment but it wont be in there for too long. But my filtration is a 1500lph internal than a 3000lph external, i also do 30% water changes per week.

Keep in mind, filtration does not remove wastes from the tank, it just gathers up the solid particles in one place. The water is still "dirty".

Most of us do a standard 50% water change once a week for our "normally" stocked tanks. You might want to consider upping that amount.. keep a close eye on your nitrates. If they start getting close to or over 20, you'll know you need to change more water.

yeah i only got my mbu a few days ago and im gonna start to do 70% water changes as of today

I hope you've got a Python!

I hope you've got a Python!

i have an event better secret method

There are no secrets at TPF! Out with it!

Myaj wrote:Keep in mind, filtration does not remove wastes from the tank, it just gathers up the solid particles in one place. The water is still "dirty".

I wouldnt agree with this at all. Filtration does remove wastes by bilogical action of breakdown into less harmful chemicals (such as Nitrates) and by chemical action as with heavy metals by carbon. These are effectivly removed from the water column through these actions.
I would however agree that water changes should always be done. Not many puffers can cope with high nitrates and without water changes many micronutrients would be lost

The biological filtration only converts ammonia and nitrite, which is a small portion of the waste produced by fish. It does NOT remove the dissolved organics (such as sugars, fatty acids, and protein) that account for a majority of the waste, which is completely invisible to the eye.

In saltwater tanks, we use a skimmer to bind some of the dissolved organics (mostly the protein) to tiny air bubbles, which we can then collect in a cup and dispose of. For freshwater systems, this process is not nearly as simple, and requires a complex series of veggy filters, trickle filters, deep sand beds, and biofilters to keep things in "check". Even with all this equipment, it is extremely difficult to levels in order, which is why massive freshwater tanks are so difficult and expensive to keep.