The Puffer Forum

geronimo69 wrote:

RTR wrote:IME, cheap plastic tubing does not work well, especially under vacuuming. Python's tubing is actually pretty high quality and is quite lasting. I still us one well over 25 years old which still has its original tubing. It is a bit discolored (a like brownish tint) but still works just fine. Having enough hose is obviously required, but having too much is inefficient and awkward.

i bought the exact same tubing that the "kit" comes with. It's all "cheap" tubing, but is overpriced in the kit. Stores have all sorts of grades of plastic tubing. Also, you would measure how much you require, depending on your situation. Mine is long enough for all my tanks to reach the drain in my basement floor... It also has a bit of discolouration, but nothing major. It's at least 5 years old already (tubing).

Basements are unheard of round these parts. Judt wanted yall to know with basements are lucky folk.

Well, actually have 3 Pythons, but only two are in routine use ATM. The alternate fish room is idle ATM, just tank and equipment storage. One is used within the operating tank room, the other longer one reaches all the non-fish room tanks.

geronimo69 wrote:If your python isn't long enough... go to Home Depot or something and get 150 feet of plastic tubing for $10 and change the tube on your python. Easy and cheap. I bought the "ends" of mine second hand and bought the tube seperate. Works awesome.

By the ends you mean thst connects to the sink? Mine doesn't connect, is their a known solution for this? Maybe a home depot thing

Python offers several different adapters. So do home stores.

My tap water has about 30 ppm nitrates, so I buy drinking water from the grocery store at $1 per gallon. About $10 every 2-3 weeks

If my tap water were high nitrate, my number of tanks would drop dramatically. Water modification is too pricey for the volumes I use.

RO/DI System! I love it! You can make any kind of water from it, I wouldn't have gotten it if I wasn't looking for super soft acidic water.

Are you reconstituting the minerals for FW?

chiang01 wrote:My tap water has about 30 ppm nitrates, so I buy drinking water from the grocery store at $1 per gallon. About $10 every 2-3 weeks

looks like your water is possibly illegal as per EPA

The MCLG for nitrate is 10 mg/L or 10 ppm. EPA has set this level of protection based on the best available science to prevent potential health problems. EPA has set an enforceable regulation for nitrate, called a maximum contaminant level (MCL), at 10 mg/L or 10 ppm. MCLs are set as close to the health goals as possible, considering cost, benefits and the ability of public water systems to detect and remove contaminants using suitable treatment technologies. In this case, the MCL equals the MCLG, because analytical methods or treatment technology do not pose any limitation.

States may set more stringent drinking water MCLGs and MCLs for nitrate than EPA.



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Contact your water utility. EPA requires all community water systems to prepare and deliver an annual consumer confidence report (CCR) (sometimes called a water quality report) for their customers by July 1 of each year. If your water provider is not a community water system, or if you have a private water supply, request a copy f

Attention! This is highly significant!

Please folks, pay attention to the details before you start throwing stones. Units do really matter. US EPA requirements are 30ppm nitrate for potable water. There is a difference between PPM and nitrate-nitrogen units (NO3-N). Hobby test kits tend for historic reasons to be total ammonia/nitrite/nitrate ions. But science dopes not use those figures - they make material balance appear irrational: 1 ppm ammonia (NH3) gives 3.3 ppm nitrite (NO2) and that give 4.4 ppm nitrate. That does not track logically or rationally. But 1 ppm ammonia-nitrogen NH3-N) gives 1 ppm nitrite-nitrogen (NO2-N), and that in turn give 1 ppm nitrate-nitrogen (NO3-N). That flows logically when you track the nitrogen itself, not the whole ion. The US EPA figures are set by the nitrogen level, not the whole ion. Hobby figures are based on the whole ion. The US EPA does not define water with 30 ppm nitrate ion as non-potable.

Please do a reality check before frightening folks about their water supply!! Folks here on this forum do understand that you cannot shift from liters to US gallons by just changing the noun used (gallons versus liters), you must convert the numbers as well. They also do need to know ppm nitrate and ppm nitrate-nitrogen require different number scales.

HTH

Pufferpunk wrote:Are you reconstituting the minerals for FW?

Absolutely!