Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Oh no! Sick fish?! Come here and see if someone can help!
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Read this before posting!!

Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.

1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.

2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.

3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)

4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.

5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.

We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.

While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.

Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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CyberBob

Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by CyberBob »

Stephny691 wrote:Yes, Clue ate the meds and he looks fine atm.

I'm going to leave it a few weeks, to be on the absolute safe side.

This might be a silly question, DPs are fine to be kept on their own arn't they? Or are there benefits to keeping more than 1?

If there's not, I'm just going to let Clue have the 42L to himself. Maybe add a few Oto in another for months when the tank is really mature.

Thanks again.
Sorry to hear about Tron :(
As for Clue, I'm pretty sure he'll do just fine on his own if that's what you choose.
If they were together for a while, you might notice a lil depression in Clue actually.
This is somewhat normal for puffers from what I hear and it doesn't necessarily mean he's sick.
Some would even recommend keeping a single puff. They should bond with you even more I would think.
I like the groups mainly because they are so small and I can't always be at the glass giving them attention hehe.
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bertie 83
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Posts: 5298
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
Gender: Male
My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis
Location (country): Brighton, England
Location: brighton , england

Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by bertie 83 »

Will be fine on his own I would not add ottos until a tank is extremely well matured they are not that hardy and need lots of real algae to start with. Maybe add a couple more dps at a later date
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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Stephny691
Puffer Fry
Posts: 21
Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 9:01 am
Location (country): UK

Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by Stephny691 »

I've got Otos in my other tank, I left that bad boy to run for a year before I put any in :) So they won't be added time soon.

I'll see how he's doing in a few weeks, if he looks a little down, I'll see if the LFS can order me some more in.

At the minute he seems perfectly content to harass the shrimp.
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CyberBob

Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by CyberBob »

bertie 83 wrote:Will be fine on his own I would not add ottos until a tank is extremely well matured they are not that hardy and need lots of real algae to start with. Maybe add a couple more dps at a later date
I think I've given up on otos personally. My last one passed away a couple days ago. I have literally gone through 10 otos this year. Unfortunetly, I think the first six were my fault (Salt, GSP). But the last 4 were eating and healthy, then just floating one day. Water levels were all within range too. They are certainly very sensitive. I've rarely had one last much more then 6 months. Maybe it's my local water or something :shrug: In a 42g, I would recommend a bristlenose pleco personally. They are algae eating machines their whole life and only grow to about 4".
I also love the clown pleco. But I rarely see mine, they are mostly nocturnal and don't eat much algae as they grow. They usually stay around 2.5"

Note: this is all based on my experiences. Your results may vary ;)
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bertie 83
Moderator
Posts: 5298
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
Gender: Male
My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis
Location (country): Brighton, England
Location: brighton , england

Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by bertie 83 »

When the first one of my eldest pair suddenly passed the others behaviour instantly changed, he swam around at the surface, nudged his reflection etc so sad to watch. He passed very soon after could have been loneliness they lived together for years tho . If yours seems fine he may be ok with your company. Whichever you decide will be the right choice for u and your individual puffer.
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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bertie 83
Moderator
Posts: 5298
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
Gender: Male
My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis
Location (country): Brighton, England
Location: brighton , england

Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by bertie 83 »

However we would not recommend tankmates as it generally ends up with finless fish and a sad owner
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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Pufferpunk
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T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
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suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles
Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: Dwarf Puffer- IPS

Post by Pufferpunk »

You still need to continue treatment for the remaining puffer for 3 days. As far as otos--you must purchase them with a rounded belly, not concave.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...

"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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