Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Pufferpunk
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
50% WC/week, is for a healthy, established system, not one that is toxic. Conditioned (Prime) tap water is fine.
I appreciate all the help PufferMe! is offering but there is some misinformation there. Safestart is the product you're looking for. Stability is not LIVE bacteria. You could change as much water as you need to after 48 hours of adding it, this will not affect the cycling process AT ALL. Nitrifying (not nulifying) bacteria lives on surfaces, not in the water. BW fish belong with aragonite sand substrate, not gravel. Nitrifying bacteria needs to be fed ALL the time, not just when ammonia appears.
I appreciate all the help PufferMe! is offering but there is some misinformation there. Safestart is the product you're looking for. Stability is not LIVE bacteria. You could change as much water as you need to after 48 hours of adding it, this will not affect the cycling process AT ALL. Nitrifying (not nulifying) bacteria lives on surfaces, not in the water. BW fish belong with aragonite sand substrate, not gravel. Nitrifying bacteria needs to be fed ALL the time, not just when ammonia appears.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- PufferMe!
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Okay, you do probably know more than me,
so I concede, but I'm not talking about using gravel, just putting some in a mesh bag, as substrate will have lots of live bacteria. I won't argue the effects of SafeStart over Stability, both are good. But absolutely, 50% is the amount for weekly water changes. For now, if you are cycling, you need to do daily water changes of 50% if you are seeing ammonia and nitrite levels of any kind. I wish you the best of luck!
Life is a sum of all your choices - Albert Camus
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pufferluver
- Puffer Fry
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Are the pest snails that often infest pet store tanks ok to put in mine for food?
- PufferMe!
- Green Spotted Puffer
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- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:50 pm
- My Puffers: One green spotted puffer in 70 gallon, marine tank. Soon to add 3 yellow tail damselfish
- Location (country): USA, New Mexico
- Location: Albuquerque
Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Snails are good. Most don't recommend the "cone" shaped, Malaysian trumpet snails, because they have that trap door that makes it difficult for the gsp to eat, but I've seen them do it. You can also crush the MTS snails a bit and throw them in. I don't know if anyone would disagree with that? The ramshorn or pond snails are better.
Gwen
Gwen
Life is a sum of all your choices - Albert Camus
- bertie 83
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
The problem with mts is the shell hardness, it can break puffers beaks
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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pufferluver
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Will look out for some this weekend and is a heater recommended? If so, to what temperature range?
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
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- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
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Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Temperatures for snail breeders are not too important, so long as extremes are avoided.
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
pufferluver
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Oh no, sorry, I meant for my puffer
- Pufferpunk
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- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
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T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
78-80 degrees.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
pufferluver
- Puffer Fry
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- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:15 am
- Location (country): America
Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Dear puffer experts,
I bought a siphon to make WC's a breeze (which I've been doing every day
). I got a heater and now my water is about 79 degrees F. I maintain the salinity at about 1.005... And I was able to get the Ammonia and Nitrate kit but they didn't have one for Nitrites
I have been using the Prime (it is my new best friend). Although the bottle doesn't really clarify if you can use it everyday..
My puffer seems more stressed than ever right now; his normally dark spots are super grey today! But then sometimes he changes colors like a chameleon.
Ok, just thought I would give you guys the scoop:)
I bought a siphon to make WC's a breeze (which I've been doing every day
My puffer seems more stressed than ever right now; his normally dark spots are super grey today! But then sometimes he changes colors like a chameleon.
Ok, just thought I would give you guys the scoop:)
- bertie 83
- Moderator
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- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
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- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
What are the tests you have got coming out at? How much water are you changing daily
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
pufferluver
- Puffer Fry
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Just tested
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrates: 5 ppm
Don't have the Nitrite kit yet
If there is no ammonia and very few nitrates, would the nitrites be high anyway?
Changing out 50% every day (so roughly 10 gallons)
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrates: 5 ppm
Don't have the Nitrite kit yet
If there is no ammonia and very few nitrates, would the nitrites be high anyway?
Changing out 50% every day (so roughly 10 gallons)
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
If you are mid cycle nitrites will be through the roof, continue with your 50% change, if he perks up quickly do another appr 8 hours after. Basically change out as much water as often as you can. Could you get a Lfs to test your water?
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
pufferluver
- Puffer Fry
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- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:15 am
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Ok, I will take a sample of water to them tomorrow. They use the API liquid test. He doesn't perk up but his colors will become bright then extremely dull sometimes. He is always fatiqued, however. I will get that nitrite kit asap, though.
-
pufferluver
- Puffer Fry
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Re: Green Spotted Puffer Lethargic not eating
Nitrite reading was .3
They had the nitrite kit today, so I got it. I saw a strange whiteish worm in the tank last night? I don't know if it was some kind of debris that got in the tank or if it was really a tiny worm, but I fished it out any how. I'm worried this was a parasite of some sort.. I know my tank isn't cycled, but are these symptoms the same for infection/disease/parasite?
Write me back:)
They had the nitrite kit today, so I got it. I saw a strange whiteish worm in the tank last night? I don't know if it was some kind of debris that got in the tank or if it was really a tiny worm, but I fished it out any how. I'm worried this was a parasite of some sort.. I know my tank isn't cycled, but are these symptoms the same for infection/disease/parasite?
Write me back:)