Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
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Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
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Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Prawns are fine as long as they are not seasoned with anything
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Woohooo finally got a break through with the puffer!
I actually got another red eye from the same place, another female, all is good socially at the moment, but the second one was straight in there with the snails!! this has prompted the other to start attacking anything that looks slightly similar to a snail!!
lol can't see one snail on the glass this morning! don't know if its a good thing or not, hope there isn't going to be an ammonia spike. will keep up with the water changes and let you know my results with the water test shortly.
thanks for all the input and guidance through this.. much appreciate me and the fish!
best
Dan
I actually got another red eye from the same place, another female, all is good socially at the moment, but the second one was straight in there with the snails!! this has prompted the other to start attacking anything that looks slightly similar to a snail!!
lol can't see one snail on the glass this morning! don't know if its a good thing or not, hope there isn't going to be an ammonia spike. will keep up with the water changes and let you know my results with the water test shortly.
thanks for all the input and guidance through this.. much appreciate me and the fish!
best
Dan
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Ok finally got the results of the water test!
pH was indicating 7.6!
High pH test indicated 7.4
Ammonia 0ppm
nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 160ppm!!
Can i have advise on getting the Nitrate down!
also
is the pH level acceptable?
Thanks
Dan
pH was indicating 7.6!
High pH test indicated 7.4
Ammonia 0ppm
nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 160ppm!!
Can i have advise on getting the Nitrate down!
also
is the pH level acceptable?
Thanks
Dan
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Whoa massive nitrate. That needs to be below 20. Lots of waterchanges
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
kk thanks
will do straight away..
best
Dan
will do straight away..
best
Dan
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
right i have managed to get hold of "Fluval Lab series, Nitrate removed filter" and done a 20% water change.. hope this starts to sort out the issue.
thanks for the input
D
thanks for the input
D
-
J-P
- Former Staff Member
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- Gender: Male
- Location (country): Japan
- Location: Sasebo, Nagasaki, Japan
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
do a quick test of your tap water and see if there are any issues wit that.
if you follow me, you avoid stepping in the crap that I just did...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZR55G ... pqlgec1A2Q
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZR55G ... pqlgec1A2Q
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Nitrate remover is not the way forward. Please only use waterchanges to remove nitrate. Because also there will be other undetected waste products that need to be removed,
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Hey J-P,
just done another nitrate test on the tap water and you are right on.. the colour is in between 80ppm an 160ppm.. very similar to my other test earlier!
This kinda causes a problem as if its the water i am putting in... then i can't really remove it .. unless i invest in a serious filtration system to remove it before i add the water.. the plot thickens..
Hi Bertie 83,
I think i might of been sold one from the aquarium store..
the container states " removes up to 25mg/L (ppm ) of nitrate in a 50 US Gal (189L) aquarium. As my aquarium is 16 US gal. should get rid of 100ppm.. there abouts.. if i am right in thinking..
let me know if i am anywhere near correct.
thought welcome plz.
Dan
just done another nitrate test on the tap water and you are right on.. the colour is in between 80ppm an 160ppm.. very similar to my other test earlier!
This kinda causes a problem as if its the water i am putting in... then i can't really remove it .. unless i invest in a serious filtration system to remove it before i add the water.. the plot thickens..
Hi Bertie 83,
I think i might of been sold one from the aquarium store..
the container states " removes up to 25mg/L (ppm ) of nitrate in a 50 US Gal (189L) aquarium. As my aquarium is 16 US gal. should get rid of 100ppm.. there abouts.. if i am right in thinking..
let me know if i am anywhere near correct.
thought welcome plz.
Dan
-
J-P
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 5626
- Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:21 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): Japan
- Location: Sasebo, Nagasaki, Japan
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
A) your utility is giving out poisonous water
B) We're not doing the test correctly
C) The testing fluids themselves are faulty.
My guess would be B or C.
Many places do have nitrates in the water, so the test should read something, but not usually that high.
It asks you to shake the bottle for a certain period of time and wait a certain period of time?
If so the first part is important. You REALLY need to shake the crap out of it.
B) We're not doing the test correctly
C) The testing fluids themselves are faulty.
My guess would be B or C.
Many places do have nitrates in the water, so the test should read something, but not usually that high.
It asks you to shake the bottle for a certain period of time and wait a certain period of time?
If so the first part is important. You REALLY need to shake the crap out of it.
Last edited by J-P on Tue Nov 15, 2011 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
if you follow me, you avoid stepping in the crap that I just did...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZR55G ... pqlgec1A2Q
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZR55G ... pqlgec1A2Q
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
I definitely did shaken the heck out of it.. part 2.. give or take a few seconds.. but very similar results..
I will give it another go and give you an update shortly.
D
I will give it another go and give you an update shortly.
D
-
scpion
- Fahaka Puffer
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4in Fahaka 150g - Location (country): singapore
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
80-160 straight from the tap is scary.. Just to make sure your test kit is working, maybe u test it on some other sources.. Bottled water or any other "clean" water u can get hold of. I have a ammonia test kit that shows the same result no matter from whichever water source. Eventually I change to another brand.
I am not a Troll, I am just pissed..!
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Ok not good..
Done another test and have given it a proper shke for the time given.. and still come up with a red with a shade slightly darker than 80ppm - 160ppm..
Any suggestions
Done another test and have given it a proper shke for the time given.. and still come up with a red with a shade slightly darker than 80ppm - 160ppm..
Any suggestions
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
Yea sounds like faulty test. I would not add the nitrate remover though. Test some bottled water and get back to us. Things may not be as bad as they seemed.
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Red Eye puffer - not eating snails.. help!
ok bottled water it will have to be..
update coming shortly.
update coming shortly.