The Puffer Forum

Well today was another small disaster. I was doing my water change and forgot to unplug one of my heaters. Black smoke and melted holders, the thing ran dry. Lucky I got spares.

Has anyone else done this?

Once the tank is filled again I'll try to take some pics

with regards to the heater- i was changing the water on the snail tank and whilstdoing that the water was quite low and the heater started steaming - so turned it off straight away and then re started it afterwards - dont want to mess them up - btw my snail tank isnt doing as well as the snails in my guppy/shrimp/bristlenose tank - havnt got a clue why -

autophotos wrote: btw my snail tank isnt doing as well as the snails in my guppy/shrimp/bristlenose tank - havnt got a clue why -

I am glad I'm not the only one! Regards to snails ... Feceis? Maybe they are better fed in the other tanks

I would be suspicious of anyone claiming long experience who says that they had never blown up a heater. I do not keep count..

I always buy Jager heaters. They turn off then there's no water (supposed to, anyway).

My Heaters are the el-cheapo kinds. I'll just have to be more dilligent.

BUT new pics! Not the best, but it give you a feel of what I'm trying to do.

The photos will look better once I am finished with the meds and get rid of the diatom issue.

Is that haze persistent? If so, that is part of the issue - haze - whether suspended inorganic particulates or suspended algae or infusoia or bacteria, all eat light big time. To me it looks as if you need some serious mechanical filtration.

It sound hokey,but you can actually burn pants after clearing a persistent haze - the light penetration is so much better.

RTR wrote:Is that haze persistent? If so, that is part of the issue - haze - whether suspended inorganic particulates or suspended algae or infusoia or bacteria, all eat light big time. To me it looks as if you need some serious mechanical filtration.

It sound hokey,but you can actually burn pants after clearing a persistent haze - the light penetration is so much better.

Thank you!
The haze only came once I started the meds (Paraguard for loach fin rot) and doing daily water changes. Thus, the diatom issue. Prior to that it was crystal clear. It seems after any big water changes I get diatoms. Once the meds are finished (I hope on Wed) I'll do a final water change, add carbon and do a HEAVY dose of Excel. The haze is at its worst along the top section though .

Temporary is a good thing. Probably a bloom of all sorts of things feasting on the extra nutrients introduced with all those chnages. That will smooth out soon after you get back to normal practices.

Why are you using a parasite med for fin rot??? Melafix/Pimafix should fix that & not cause any harm to your biological filtration.

Melafix/Pimafix harms the gilkls of weather loaches. I tried that and the guy went squirly. nmonks recomended Paraguard (it does fin rot also) and it is working.
Apparently Melafix/Pimafix combos are good preventitives but once infection sets in they don't work that well but they do make good room deodourizers

J-P wrote: but they do make good room deodourizers

No kidding! When I originally got the SAPs I put some Melafix in in case of any damage. Melafix + hot water + apartment = stinky. Didn't do that for long as they didn't need it.

Pft. I like the smell of Melafix. Peppermint. ;D

Pufferpunk wrote:Why are you using a parasite med for fin rot??? Melafix/Pimafix should fix that & not cause any harm to your biological filtration.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product ... Guard.html <==

That is the product I am using and it is working wonders! The loach showed real signs of improvement 24 hours after and has recovered nearly 50%
I started out with the standard API Melafix + Pimafix and it didn't do anything except irritate him and make the house smell like Eucalyptus oil that my wife sometimes uses (and I bought the pond dose stuff also just incase, higher concentration). 2 days of dosing Melifix and Pimafix, doing water changes, and he was still going downhill fast. I contacted WWM because it was a non puffer issue and they recomended Paraguard.

3 days after that the loach was back to jumping tanks Still a little shabby but is eating well and active.

Yes, I looked up Paraguard & it says it's for treating parasites.
"ParaGuard™ is the only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available."