need serious help treating velvet asap
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Pufferpunk
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burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
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Sorry to hear that, he did look pretty bad. Although do did mine & I was able to save them, so your other still has a chance.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
puffer_puff
- Dwarf Puffer
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- My Puffers: Monotrete Cochinchinensis | Tetraodon Sabahensis | Takifugu ocellatus | Tetraodon abei | Carinotetraodon irrubesco x2 (m&f) | Tetraodon turgidus | Tetraodon baileyi (co-owned with KugelKat) | Tetraodon palembangensis | Tetraodon lineatus | Tetraodon miurus | Auriglobus modestus | Carinotetraodon travancoricus x3 (2m,1f) ||| deceased: C. asellus, T. nigroviridis, T. Sabahensis, T. leiurus, C. lorteti
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I am sorry to hear that.disisgustavo wrote:well i added half the dosage of maricide last night after a huge water change and this morning our worst fear came true when i woke up and noticed the puffer deadpoor little guy, and the worst part is i coulda prolly saved him if i started the right kind of treatment earlier
hopefully my other guy pulls through, he is not nearly as bad as the other one was and this one has been eating and swimming around and whatnot.
If you can believe it, the exact same thing had happened with my A. modestus puffer when I awoke this morning. It had a rapid case of something almost exactly as you describe. The difference was that I added Maracyn, not Maricide. This morning, it was dead.
I wonder if our addition of the medication had anything to do with the deaths.
The worst thing is that I have its mate in a tank beside it, and the mate is looking for the sick puffer through the glass but can no longer see it as it's stuck dead in a corner (I woke up late this afternoon, so I haven't removed it yet, but I am about to remove the dead fish from the quarantine tank). I wonder whether I should let the mate see the dead puffer.
Monotrete cochinchinensis | Tetraodon sabahensis | Takifugu ocellatus | Tetraodon abei | Carinotetraodon irrubesco x2 (m&f) | Tetraodon turgidus | Tetraodon baileyi (co-owned with KugelKat) | Tetraodon palembangensis | Tetraodon lineatus | Tetraodon miurus | Auriglobus modestus | Carinotetraodon travancoricusx3 ||| deceased: C.asellus,T.nigroviridis,T.leiurus,C.lorteti
Maracyn is a gram positive antibiotic if I remember right. Maracyn II is a gram negative antibiotic. or vice versa. They recommend using the two in conjunction with each other although this can be very hard on fish. In my experience the two kill off just as many fish as they "save." I do not recommend the maracyn meds to any of my customers.
Additionally, I don't believe maracyn would be effective on a case of velvet. Although, I could be wrong.
Sorry about your loss.
Additionally, I don't believe maracyn would be effective on a case of velvet. Although, I could be wrong.
Sorry about your loss.
I have been treating mine now for three days and one is doing a lot better and the other one is eating now and active it seems better but sense they arrived in a sick condition I don't know if the second one has something else going on it's color seems to be off. I ordered these and they were never in a tank at the lfs I got them right after they arrived. Are they all sick when brought home? I always thought it was the way they were treated at the lfs
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
SAPs are very susceptible to ich & velvet when you 1st bring them home. A very long QT is in order for them, before introducing them to your main tank.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Found this at WetWebMedia:
The best cure for these protazoas are a combination of Malachite Green and Formalin. Clout works well on this too. You could try Formalin alone while increasing the water temp to 82 F and keeping up on the salt while doing your water changes.
The best cure for these protazoas are a combination of Malachite Green and Formalin. Clout works well on this too. You could try Formalin alone while increasing the water temp to 82 F and keeping up on the salt while doing your water changes.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"