The Puffer Forum

Look up "rena xp canister filter" its for fresh and saltwater. The sizes go from xp1 the smallest, xp2, xp3 and xp4 the biggest. You may benefit from and xp2 filter. Great quiet filter that uses hang on back hoses, one side you put in the suction hose, the other end the other exit hose. Limits dead spots by providing circulation at oppossite ends ofthe tank. Since its for fw and sw, it can remain as a long term filter for you

Why not just start out marine, and drip acclimate the puffer to marine conditions? This is a perfectly safe method and you could avoid ever purchasing a canister filter and only using it a few months.

If you just get everything you need for the marine tank, and set it up as such you will avoid having to transition later on.

+1, it's the easiest way to go long term

Great idea! That seems like the most logical way.
To set up full marine, I would need

Protein skimmer
live rock
Sand
power head
salt

What size power head should I be looking at? Should I do 2 at 450-500gph each? Or should they both combine to be about 500 gph (250 gph per power head)

I personally do not think a canister would provide nearly enough flow. A powerhead is much better. Save that $150 for a good protein skimmer.

Pufferpunk wrote:I personally do not think a canister would provide nearly enough flow. A powerhead is much better. Save that $150 for a good protein skimmer.

True, good point I forget the amount of equipment sw needs

sbc580 wrote:Great idea! That seems like the most logical way.
To set up full marine, I would need

Protein skimmer
live rock
Sand
power head
salt

What size power head should I be looking at? Should I do 2 at 450-500gph each? Or should they both combine to be about 500 gph (250 gph per power head)

What size powerheads you need will really depend on your tank setup and everything. You don't want any dead spots, but you need some spots that are calmer. I'd say get two, that way you can have one on each side of the tank for enough varied flow.

Also, pretty sure you know this, but some people don't, so I will clarify. You want marine salt, not aquarium salt. I've heard some fish store employees try and tell people that aquarium salt is fine for marine tanks.

Hydor Koralia Evo are good power heads, be careful tho because they move a walrus ton of water...
My Reef Octopus protein skimmer I feel is pretty good for a sub $200 skimmer.

I'm sure others will chime in on what to get, actually PP is the one who pointed me towards the Hydor Koralias.

I second the Reef Octopus protein skimmer. I just got a Reef Octopus BH-2000 skimmer and I'm loving it so far. I'd probably go with something smaller for your tank as its rated for 100 gallons and I'm using it on my 60. It started producing skimmate quickly. Also, the chamber arrived cracked and the company stood up to their warranty and sent me out a new piece without any hassle. They also had the broken piece sent back to them at no charge to me.

For rock, I suggest http://www.marcorocks.com/

I ordered my base rock from them and it is really great rock. Great price also.

Unless you're able to find a deal for some nice rock on craigslist or similar from someone breaking down their tank.

I've nothing but bad luck with Koralias.

Pufferpunk wrote:I've nothing but bad luck with Koralias.

Lmao. Mine's fine, although I could've gotten smaller ones. That thing was blowing my little GSPs around. Pointing it at the surface helped though.

I think it is amusing that folks damn canisters as being nitrate factories. That is what they are supposed to do in FW and BW. Bu folks are correct about nitrates in SW FOWLR + skimmer + macroalgae refugium. That is the only set-up where canisters as biofilters are inappropriate.

I do agree w/PP that coral rubble is not easy to manage in a canister, but I have used it in that way to boost KH in BW tanks. There I bag the coral rubble and dry it out ever 2-4weeks, substituting an another bag of rubble. That block the canister from becoming another biofilter. Such units should also have a good fine-sponge intake to the canister to avoid debris-loading the coral rubble. That sponge must be rinsed at least weekly. That is a small chore, but worthwhile to me to keep KH from slipping down too far.

I.Puff.Too wrote:Hydor Koralia Evo are good power heads, be careful tho because they move a surlaW ton of water...
My Reef Octopus protein skimmer I feel is pretty good for a sub $200 skimmer.

I'm sure others will chime in on what to get, actually PP is the one who pointed me towards the Hydor Koralias.

wow, looks like the smallest they sell is a 550 gph. If I were to get 2 power heads, on a 45 gallon tank, my guess is I would need them to be 200-250 gph each.

Nuclear_Glitter wrote: What size powerheads you need will really depend on your tank setup and everything. You don't want any dead spots, but you need some spots that are calmer. I'd say get two, that way you can have one on each side of the tank for enough varied flow.

Also, pretty sure you know this, but some people don't, so I will clarify. You want marine salt, not aquarium salt. I've heard some fish store employees try and tell people that aquarium salt is fine for marine tanks.

I've read about using marine salt, thanks for the reminder.

I'll check out the Reed Octopus protein skimmer. Do they make anything for smaller tanks? One of the few requirements I have is for it to be quiet. I would pay the extra money for a nice quiet protein skimmer.

RTR wrote:I think it is amusing that folks damn canisters as being nitrate factories. That is what they are supposed to do in FW and BW. Bu folks are correct about nitrates in SW FOWLR + skimmer + macroalgae refugium. That is the only set-up where canisters as biofilters are inappropriate.

I do agree w/PP that coral rubble is not easy to manage in a canister, but I have used it in that way to boost KH in BW tanks. There I bag the coral rubble and dry it out ever 2-4weeks, substituting an another bag of rubble. That block the canister from becoming another biofilter. Such units should also have a good fine-sponge intake to the canister to avoid debris-loading the coral rubble. That sponge must be rinsed at least weekly. That is a small chore, but worthwhile to me to keep KH from slipping down too far.

From the research I have been doing about cannister filters, it seems that they are nitrate factories because they don't get clean often enough. Weekly cleanings seems to be a must.

Thanks for the help everyone, this has been huge in deciding what I should do.

I think the smallest one they have is rated up to 100 gallons. It should be fine on your 45g, as I ran mine on a 55g. Keep in mind this is an in-sump skimmer, so naturally you're going to increase your water volume when adding the sump/fuge.

If you don't want a sump/fuge and would rather have a HOB skimmer, maybe check out the Bak-Pak skimmers.

I.Puff.Too wrote:I think the smallest one they have is rated up to 100 gallons. It should be fine on your 45g, as I ran mine on a 55g. Keep in mind this is an in-sump skimmer, so naturally you're going to increase your water volume when adding the sump/fuge.

If you don't want a sump/fuge and would rather have a HOB skimmer, maybe check out the Bak-Pak skimmers.

I didn't even think about the possibility of a sump because I don't have one.

The Reef Octopus BH-2000 is a HOB and I do like it really well.

Its rated for a little over 100 gallons I believe, I'm not sure if this could do more harm than good on your smaller set-up or not, someone else would have to clarify. However, there are smaller skimmers made by Reef Octopus
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-octo ... immer.html

If you are going with a sump, Reef Octopus makes nice in-sump ones as well.

This seems to cover the skimmers by Reef Octopus
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/protein-s ... topus.html