fin and tail rot
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: fin and tail rot
not good you should not show any amm or nitri. Time for another waterchange i am afraid
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
hammer
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:27 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: stars and stripes puffer
- Location (country): England
ill puffer
my juvenile S and S puffer isn't looking too good, he's about the length of my index finger and he constantly has his tail folded and curled around the side of him, he has early stages of fin-rot in his tail which is going to be treated with melafix also he has dark green patches forming on him (almost like a camoflauge pattern) and he generaly doesn't look very healthy.
If you have any advice that would help my puffer then that would be appreciated.
Kind regards h
If you have any advice that would help my puffer then that would be appreciated.
Kind regards h
-
PolishPuff
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:20 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: ________
Also cared for;
Fahaka------------------- Had to give it away
Auriglobus modestus-----Traded
Auriglobus silus ---------Died during transport.
Figure Eight Puffers -----Sold and or traded
Dwarf Puffers ------------Traded
Congo Puffer ------------Traded
South American Puffers -Traded
Carinotetraodon lorteti --Died under my supervision :( - Location (country): USA-Chicago, IL
- Location: Chicago, IL
Re: ill puffer
It would be better for you to ask this question on the Hospital section. When you get there PLS answer all questions in red for better diagnosis
"Lost time is never found again" Benjamin Franklin
-
J-P
- Former Staff Member
- Posts: 5626
- Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:21 am
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): Japan
- Location: Sasebo, Nagasaki, Japan
Re: ill puffer
I posted the answer to this in your original fin rot thread. The answer is the same. Water quality.
if you follow me, you avoid stepping in the crap that I just did...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZR55G ... pqlgec1A2Q
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZR55G ... pqlgec1A2Q
-
matt612
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:00 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Mbu
- Location (country): lancashire uk
Re: ill puffer
50% water change ammonia is no good for your puffer sounds like your tank is still cycling
-
hammer
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:27 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: stars and stripes puffer
- Location (country): England
Re: fin and tail rot
so do u add it to the water?
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: fin and tail rot
Your tank is cycling. Take a whiff of an ammonia bottle. That's how your fish are feeling right now.
Do an 80% WC right now & 50% daily, until you get that down to ammonia/nitrite 0.
See if you can get a hold of Dr Tim's SW or Bio-Spira. What kind of filtration is on there now? Skimmer? How much live rock (I know I've asked before but I'm not going through all your posts)? I told you your tank wasn't cycled. I told you your tank isn't set up properly to house fish yet. I told you have a fish that will outgrow this tank & will be much easier to move & re-home as a juvie. I told you the Maroon clown is mean & will rip apart your puffer's fins. You will not listen. Now you run a HUGE risk of doing permanent damage to these fish & losing them all together.
Do an 80% WC right now & 50% daily, until you get that down to ammonia/nitrite 0.
See if you can get a hold of Dr Tim's SW or Bio-Spira. What kind of filtration is on there now? Skimmer? How much live rock (I know I've asked before but I'm not going through all your posts)? I told you your tank wasn't cycled. I told you your tank isn't set up properly to house fish yet. I told you have a fish that will outgrow this tank & will be much easier to move & re-home as a juvie. I told you the Maroon clown is mean & will rip apart your puffer's fins. You will not listen. Now you run a HUGE risk of doing permanent damage to these fish & losing them all together.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
JRC3
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 904
- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:10 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: F8(55g)
F8 (46g)
4-DP(29g) - Location (country): U.S.
- Location: S.W. OH
Re: fin and tail rot
How are you mixing your salt and water for your water changes?
Can you return a fish or both fish until your tank cycles...Even if the LFS will only give you partial credit for both it will be cheaper as well as easier so you won't have to do the water changes as the tank cycles.
Can you return a fish or both fish until your tank cycles...Even if the LFS will only give you partial credit for both it will be cheaper as well as easier so you won't have to do the water changes as the tank cycles.
There are many knowledgeable fish keepers on this forum willing to help and give great advice...The advice is free; What you choose to do with it gives it value.
-
matt612
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:00 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Mbu
- Location (country): lancashire uk
Re: fin and tail rot
Take the fish back spend at least a month researching marine tanks then invest in the correct amount of live rock and the best simmer u can afford when i went marine i spent £1000 on my skimmer alone
-
hammer
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:27 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: stars and stripes puffer
- Location (country): England
Re: fin and tail rot
you are joking.
-
matt612
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:00 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Mbu
- Location (country): lancashire uk
Re: fin and tail rot
The more u research the easier it is to keep your fish healthy and happy how big is your tank
-
JRC3
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 904
- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:10 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: F8(55g)
F8 (46g)
4-DP(29g) - Location (country): U.S.
- Location: S.W. OH
Re: fin and tail rot
I think he's referring to the protein skimmer remark.
There are many knowledgeable fish keepers on this forum willing to help and give great advice...The advice is free; What you choose to do with it gives it value.
-
matt612
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:00 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Mbu
- Location (country): lancashire uk
Re: fin and tail rot
I know i answered that with noJRC3 wrote:I think he's referring to the protein skimmer remark.
-
vorton
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:35 am
- My Puffers: 4 x Dwarf puffers
1x Black Guineafowl Puffer - Location (country): UK
- Location: England
Re: fin and tail rot
Im new to the tpf ive learnt alot from listerning to peoples reactions to my questions and taking their responses into consideration!!!.
You need to ship that puffer right back to your lfs.Its a living breathing creature with needs you simply cannot provied.
I have just set up my marien tank after 2/3 months reaserch on the subject making sure everything is perfect.
My tanks water levels after the week of being setup are the same as yours. ITS NOT CYCLED.
Its not ready for any fish let allown a puffer. You need to stop messing about with this puffer, do your home work and then once the tanks set up right get your puffer one that will fit into your tank.
Any one who buys a puffer should do their reaserch. People on this site are very helpful and knowladgeable so when they say something listern to them they sure beat the kid who works at the local fish shop for a source of information.
It takes effort, knowladge and hard work to care for a puffer !
You need to ship that puffer right back to your lfs.Its a living breathing creature with needs you simply cannot provied.
I have just set up my marien tank after 2/3 months reaserch on the subject making sure everything is perfect.
My tanks water levels after the week of being setup are the same as yours. ITS NOT CYCLED.
Its not ready for any fish let allown a puffer. You need to stop messing about with this puffer, do your home work and then once the tanks set up right get your puffer one that will fit into your tank.
Any one who buys a puffer should do their reaserch. People on this site are very helpful and knowladgeable so when they say something listern to them they sure beat the kid who works at the local fish shop for a source of information.
It takes effort, knowladge and hard work to care for a puffer !
Last edited by vorton on Thu Jan 19, 2012 4:23 am, edited 1 time in total.