ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
can i just add before i found this forum and all the cures that i found also work esha exit was what i used, you need to half dose , and nstead of 3 days i treated for 5 as sighns were still there but perked up after 2 days . i have since descovered salt and heat more effective but if thats not working for you it may be wortha try . but i would rid your system of other meds first. carbon? this may be useless info at this stage and you may be better continueing course of action already implemented,,,wait for pros to post yay or nay
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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JenJen19720
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 1:09 pm
- My Puffers: Carinotetraodon irrubesco (Red-tailed Puffer)
- Location (country): United States
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
When I got home from work I found out he had died.
I don't know what to do... The ich hasn't affected the four neon tetras that are in the tank. What should I do now to make sure it's completely eradicated so that the next puff I get will have a long, happy, healthy life in that tank?
I don't know what to do... The ich hasn't affected the four neon tetras that are in the tank. What should I do now to make sure it's completely eradicated so that the next puff I get will have a long, happy, healthy life in that tank?
- eieio
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:34 am
- My Puffers: *
The Congo Puffer:
"olivia"
and.......
The DP:
"cream puff"
RIP cream puff :-( - Location (country): U.S.A.
- Location: Prescott, Arizona
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
very sorry 
"I plan ahead. That way, I don't have to do anything right now!"
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
sorry you lost your puff. i would go back to normal and quarantine that tank for 4 to 6 weeks and watch for ich signs if you can leave it a little longer then even better. if they show signs of ich treat if not then tank ich free
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
-
Randomtabby
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2011 6:39 pm
- Gender: Female
- Location (country): Canada
- Location: Westcoast
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
I find it helps to scoop them into a bucket to move them, instead of lifting them out of the water with a net. Much less stressful. And always acclimatise the fish, whether it be to a new tank or for a bath. I usually acclimate for 10 min on average. For a dip treatment that only lasts 30-60 seconds, even then you can take a few of those seconds to pour the dip water into the bucket with the fish, rather than drop the fish right in.
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JenJen19720
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 1:09 pm
- My Puffers: Carinotetraodon irrubesco (Red-tailed Puffer)
- Location (country): United States
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
Thanks everyone. When my first beloved Puff died, I think I waited about three weeks until my LFS got another one in. My puff that just died was a "secondhand" puff, he was traded in to the store. Maybe he already had issues.
Miss you tiny puff... I buried my first beloved Puff under an esperanza plant, and I plan to bury this puff under a yellow shrimp plant.
Puffs are really special.
Miss you tiny puff... I buried my first beloved Puff under an esperanza plant, and I plan to bury this puff under a yellow shrimp plant.
Puffs are really special.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32979
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Puffers I have kept:
T lineatus
T miurus
A modestus
T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
C lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Greenville, SC
- Contact:
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
IDK if you posted this anywhere but what kind of puffer was that?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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JenJen19720
- Puffer Fry
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 1:09 pm
- My Puffers: Carinotetraodon irrubesco (Red-tailed Puffer)
- Location (country): United States
Re: ICH is horrible, really need help that actually works
Hi Pufferpunk, he was a Carinotetraodon irrubesco, and so was my first puffer.