The Puffer Forum

no prime just makes it so that the toxins are nullified it doesn't affect the cycling at all. Best of luck with your puffer they are such a cool fish. Post pictures when you get him settled into the 10g.

No, it won't affect the cycle. It locks the ammonia and nitrite into a form that won't damage the fish, but still will remain available to the bacteria as food.

Back off a bit folks. For BW up to 1.005+ I have never been able to read any difference in bacterial growth rates or cycle time. If you have, please share that data with us. The bacteria are the same as FW up to at least 1.008. Above that, you have both residual FW bugs and hopefully SW bugs starting. Above 1.012+ the bugs are mostly SW species and the FW forms are arrested or dying off to dead.

But very low BW levels will not hurt the FW bacteria. It is not absolutely needed short-term, but it should not hurt either.

HTH

I know that it's the same bacteria, but I've heard a lot of people on here say to leave the water at fw level until it cycles because they said it took longer when they had added salt initially. No test studies, it's just what I have heard on this site. I have heard it suggested to new puffer owners to leave the tank at freshwater until it is cycled, and then add salt.
I didn't know this wasn't considered a factual claim, I'm just going by what I've picked up here, and was relating that advice thinking it was helpful since I read that the cycle would take longer with salt present in the water, and no one wants a longer cycle if it can be avoided.

My question is if you feel that brackish levels up to 1.005 will not harm the fw bacteria, why is it often suggested here to only raise .02 sg a week and to start as fw until cycled if that's not necessary?

I'm glad the prime will not slow the cycling process

I picked up a bottle today and dosed accordingly during a water change,
I also picked up some 5 in 1 test strips for nitrite and nitrate

when i got home the nitrite read 0 and nitrate seemed closest to 20ppm

I just tested the water and I can't exactly tell, but the color is definitely closest to 0ppm for ammonia.

I will post pictures as soon as I can, I think hes doing very well now! I just need to find batteries for my digital camera

Forget the test strips, they're crap. Get yourself good liquid test kits, like API.

Believe me I'm going to. i do have API brand liquid ammonia testing kit and the test strips i bought are also API

I'm going to get the master kit as soon as i can (hopefully in a few days) I was a little tight on money, I'm doing the best I can right now

Just keep doing those WC, they're free!

They arent free if your on city water lol

That is very true, but luckily we've got well water

There are only two adults here in permanent residence, but I am charged the excessive usage water rates. Oh well, it is part of the costs of fish and plants. My summer water bill goes up an extra $100.00+, but I do consider it worth it. The big banana bed eats water, even after getting all the tank change water.

RTR wrote:There are only two adults here in permanent residence, but I am charged the excessive usage water rates. Oh well, it is part of the costs of fish and plants. My summer water bill goes up an extra $100.00+, but I do consider it worth it. The big banana bed eats water, even after getting all the tank change water.

wow! how many tanks do you have?

Only 18 ATM, peaked at 40=/-. But there have been sometimes 2 ea, 180 and 2 ea. 120 running - those can really run up the water use.

The big banana bed has had up to 65 trees in it. It needs a minimum of a 12-hour soak every third day during the summer drought.

wow, it must be like living in a public aquarium =P

what is a big banana bed exactly?

I've been wondering that same thing. I have no clue what the big banana bed is.